A compact alternative to 0.53x K'nator for PA130
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...arlson-6th-order-bandpass-33.html#post4427694
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...arlson-6th-order-bandpass-33.html#post4427694
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that XKi for PA130 is the nicest size yet for tight spots such as bookcases and the aspect looks nice - - I think but not positive that MCM's version #55-1595 would substitute and are on sale as low as $8.99 each to November 1, 2015 with discount code SC46AB. MCM says their speaker has a 17.7oz magnet - they sound nice for something cheap. MCM's shipping is higher than Partsexpress at ~10.99-11.99 for a small order.
Freddi,
Did you ever measure TS params for the MCM? If you have them, I can throw it into the mode and see how it works out. The PA130 in the XKi sounds very lively and vocals are excellent. I am debating whether or not to try the pentagonal cone cut and refill with soft glue to see if I can get rid of some of the strong breakup modes in the HF's.
hi X - - all I have is a very old sample in a paper mache speaker - I'll order a new sample and see - at the very least, it might make a mini Karlsonator
my old one
my old one
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The MCM specs show this:
Specifications::
Power Capacity: 50W/100W RMS/peak
Sensitivity: 91dB (W/M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 6.9ohm
Le: 0.59mH
Frequency response: 80Hz~15KHz
Fs: 100Hz
Qts: 0.65
Qes: 0.88
Qms: 2.44
Vas: 3.86 (liters)
Xmax: 1.25mm
The PA130-8 differs somewhat in a lower fs (83Hz), more xmax (2mm), lower Qts (0.51). The Vas on both is about 4 liters. The surround is also accordion cloth and a 20oz magnet. So it seems to be more powerful and perhaps worth the extra $8.
you're probably right on the benefits of spending a bit more - still the MCM should be good for something
MCM Audio Select 5'' Full Range Monitor Driver | 55-1595 (551595) | MCM Audio Select
MCM Audio Select 5'' Full Range Monitor Driver | 55-1595 (551595) | MCM Audio Select
Dayton ND90-8
I made a pair of tall boxes and put 10 ND90's in each.
They sounded smooth and punchy, but a bit of rolled of in the highs.
I then rewired the drivers, using only the top 3 drivers and running them in paralell. High Re on these, measured 2,7 ohms.
But they sound so much better! Much more extdended in the highs.
Of course the overall spl capabilities is suffering from this, but up to around 90db in listening position running full range sounds really good...
Now I just need to find some spare time and build me some Karlsonator's!!🙂
Cbarth
I made a pair of tall boxes and put 10 ND90's in each.
They sounded smooth and punchy, but a bit of rolled of in the highs.
I then rewired the drivers, using only the top 3 drivers and running them in paralell. High Re on these, measured 2,7 ohms.
But they sound so much better! Much more extdended in the highs.
Of course the overall spl capabilities is suffering from this, but up to around 90db in listening position running full range sounds really good...
Now I just need to find some spare time and build me some Karlsonator's!!🙂
Cbarth
Usually wiring series parallel will give you same frequency response as basic driver but with improved sensitivity. 9 drivers should work and get you like +7dB or 8dB increase at same drive voltage.
I will not argue that.
But the ND90-8 has a Le value of 0,51mH. If you put that in series you get more than 1mH.
I think that is enough to roll down the top end a bit...
Cbarth
But the ND90-8 has a Le value of 0,51mH. If you put that in series you get more than 1mH.
I think that is enough to roll down the top end a bit...
Cbarth
I'm going to build an active double TC9FD 0.53 scaled Karlsonator tonight.
It will contain an active preamp with mono-summer and tone controls and an amp board (one out of my collection, propably the blue TDA7492...yet to decide during listening).
Is the sketch from the first post up-to-date?
I'm confused about the scale of the sides being the same as the top and bottom parts.
Maybe i should translate the sketch into my geometry computing program before i start....and translate the lengths into metric units (without fraction numbers).
It will contain an active preamp with mono-summer and tone controls and an amp board (one out of my collection, propably the blue TDA7492...yet to decide during listening).
Is the sketch from the first post up-to-date?
I'm confused about the scale of the sides being the same as the top and bottom parts.
Maybe i should translate the sketch into my geometry computing program before i start....and translate the lengths into metric units (without fraction numbers).
Probably the best drawing is by Tb46. It's in decimal inches and metric.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...l-tc9fds-karlsonator_.53x_dual_vifa_tc9fd.pdf
Don't worry about being off a few mm or even 5mm. It will still work pretty well. A forgiving design.
Good luck. Instead of mono summing preamp just run each driver to L and R. You won't get sensitivity gain that way though.
I found that plan a few moments ago.
Much easier for me.
I see some differences to your original plan, but those should be within the tolerances you mentioned.
The preamp is leftover from another project.
It works great, so i keep it as it is.
.............
dammit.....
i changed my mind.
the cardboard i have is better for the 0.4 scale.
maybe i'll get two out of it....
see you tommorow
edit:
thanks to Bl21de3 for the nices plans for the 0.4 !!
this is easy to rescale for different material thickness.
i do the fool around with the bit of cardboard you have and fold as much as you can method.
i add a bit of the cut the dumbest way possible method.
the method is completed with the scale the plan for your cardboard thickness, but always look at the unscaled plan technique.
i add a bit of the cut the dumbest way possible method.
the method is completed with the scale the plan for your cardboard thickness, but always look at the unscaled plan technique.
Ok, dumb question time. Has anyone tried a dual driver config with different make drivers, that are the same size and similar specs? Seems like the dips and peaks may happen at slightly different freq, so they might average out. With two drivers that are the same, you are probably going to get dips and peaks that reinforce each other. Thoughts?