Yikes, now that's a bit of a bitch-slap😱
OK, so I have to admit to never hearing a Bryston amp I could live with (and I did hear several and tried to own a pair myself "in the day" )
Stu - nothing personal
OK, so I have to admit to never hearing a Bryston amp I could live with (and I did hear several and tried to own a pair myself "in the day" )
Stu - nothing personal
Yeah, nothing personal Stew. Just feeling a bit cheeky today for some reason. Must be the weather.😉
jeff
jeff
Hi ChrisRichard - remind us again what exactly were the "issues" with bass? Could driver break-in have been part of it?
The drivers are still pretty fresh. I think there may have been an air leak, or maybe the drivers did not have good contact with the brace. I had to slide a piece of veneer between one of them. I really like the 3Dish sound from top firing drivers
They look very nice. Well done!
I was thinking the same thing re: bass. My EL70 microTowers required at least 100 hours before I started getting good bass. I see those are CHR-70; I suspect they require less break-in, but some improvement should be expected as they get more hours of exercise.
Thx Cogitech. I think they may be quite good hooked up to the TV too. Certainly the right size. I really feel the proportions are spot on.
I'd think driver break-in or excessive / unevenly teased stuffing more at play here than loose fit at bracing. I certainly found the latter to be the case with my initial listening on Pensil 7s
Richard,
HNY 2014!
Good to see the build has been finally completed. 🙂 Now onwards to a few more hours on the drivers and possibly some adjustments to the stuffing.
You double checked the port length?
HNY 2014!
Good to see the build has been finally completed. 🙂 Now onwards to a few more hours on the drivers and possibly some adjustments to the stuffing.
You double checked the port length?
Zia - good point about the ports - note that tuning for the now discontinued EL70 and current CHR70s would be different. Mind you, depending on how the bottom plate & port tubes were installed, it could be "tricky" to adjust that or the stuffing at this point.
My first 2 pairs were buttoned up tight, on the third (slot port, slanted top and CHBWs & tweeters) the bottom plate with XO attached was screwed and gasketed in place.
My first 2 pairs were buttoned up tight, on the third (slot port, slanted top and CHBWs & tweeters) the bottom plate with XO attached was screwed and gasketed in place.
the key to successful break-in is not about out brute horsepower
ahem.
Hi Zia
HNY to you too! 🙂
The ports were cut to the maximum length as suggested in the original plans. I didn't glue them in place, but they are a tight fit.
HNY to you too! 🙂
The ports were cut to the maximum length as suggested in the original plans. I didn't glue them in place, but they are a tight fit.
hi guys...
Sorry for the long delay, I've been way too busy....
chris: The thing about driver break-in (at least in my humble experiences) that I generally adhere to is the ability to swing some current (not necessarily high voltage, but rather higher current). This is assuming the output impedance of the amp << the impedance loudspeaker system.
I suppose when Bryston eventually took what was essentially the .5 preamp and the 2BLP and made the B60 integrated amp (although perhaps 20 or 25 years too late in my opinion) they were sort of admitting that. (not sure if the BP60 was/is dual mono or bridgeable). I'm not even sure if they make a smaller (as in 50-60 W/ch) power amp anymore.
The Bryston 2BLP is an amp I still covet today. If I could find one and get it rebuilt by Bryston, I'd be pretty happy. Dual mono, well built using a relatively simple circuit. All the larger Bryston amps had what I call "errors of addition". At higher levels they held together better than the little 2B, but at anything less than full throttle, I'd take a 2BLP (or two) over any one of the larger (3B, 4B) Bryston amps of the day. As long as the little 2B was/is operated within its design envelope, it was a mightly fine little amp that sounded way better than it should have.
I'm not suggesting that brute force is the thing to consider, but given my 'druthers, I'd rather lower (ultimate) power with increased available current than not (everything else being equal, and here strictly speaking bout SS-based amps) when breaking in loudspeakers. Multi-channel amps with parallel channels (so ultimately no more voltage gain, but loads of available current) seem to me to be the failing of many of the digital amplifiers (not all, but many of the smaller Tripath amplifiers for example).
Tubes of course are another thing altogether, and I do love the little DIY SE84 that glows in the front room more often than the McCormack DNA 0.5 deLuxe 😉 . They both have their place, but in my current room and at the levels that I generally listen at, the little Decware (on a chunk of press-board no less!) is plenty enough for me.
Sorry for the long delay, I've been way too busy....
chris: The thing about driver break-in (at least in my humble experiences) that I generally adhere to is the ability to swing some current (not necessarily high voltage, but rather higher current). This is assuming the output impedance of the amp << the impedance loudspeaker system.
I suppose when Bryston eventually took what was essentially the .5 preamp and the 2BLP and made the B60 integrated amp (although perhaps 20 or 25 years too late in my opinion) they were sort of admitting that. (not sure if the BP60 was/is dual mono or bridgeable). I'm not even sure if they make a smaller (as in 50-60 W/ch) power amp anymore.
The Bryston 2BLP is an amp I still covet today. If I could find one and get it rebuilt by Bryston, I'd be pretty happy. Dual mono, well built using a relatively simple circuit. All the larger Bryston amps had what I call "errors of addition". At higher levels they held together better than the little 2B, but at anything less than full throttle, I'd take a 2BLP (or two) over any one of the larger (3B, 4B) Bryston amps of the day. As long as the little 2B was/is operated within its design envelope, it was a mightly fine little amp that sounded way better than it should have.
I'm not suggesting that brute force is the thing to consider, but given my 'druthers, I'd rather lower (ultimate) power with increased available current than not (everything else being equal, and here strictly speaking bout SS-based amps) when breaking in loudspeakers. Multi-channel amps with parallel channels (so ultimately no more voltage gain, but loads of available current) seem to me to be the failing of many of the digital amplifiers (not all, but many of the smaller Tripath amplifiers for example).
Tubes of course are another thing altogether, and I do love the little DIY SE84 that glows in the front room more often than the McCormack DNA 0.5 deLuxe 😉 . They both have their place, but in my current room and at the levels that I generally listen at, the little Decware (on a chunk of press-board no less!) is plenty enough for me.
I'm looking for the perfect solution for my ht system, until now I have selected the pensil r70.3, 7.3, and 70.3 ml twin chr-tl but I can not make a decision yet... I also saw the halftower who has a remarkable waf!
One of my problems is the depth of the speakers,my TV is very close to the wall so when I look at it from the side, where I have the table, there is the risk that a deep speaker shade the screen.
So, the twin-ml tl is maybe a little too high, the 7.3 is less deep than the 70.3 and probably also the voices are better too, and the halftower is really thin!That's a good think.
But I wonder how it sounds compared to 70.3 I'll use only for ht not for music (I have another system for that).
Any advice?
One of my problems is the depth of the speakers,my TV is very close to the wall so when I look at it from the side, where I have the table, there is the risk that a deep speaker shade the screen.
So, the twin-ml tl is maybe a little too high, the 7.3 is less deep than the 70.3 and probably also the voices are better too, and the halftower is really thin!That's a good think.
But I wonder how it sounds compared to 70.3 I'll use only for ht not for music (I have another system for that).
Any advice?
verderme,
Both the Alp 7.3 and CHR-70.3 work in the Half Towers - Dave can comment if changes to the port are required from last update of plans (depending on choice of driver). The Half Towers are decent sounding for their size and since it is for HT, I am assuming you will have a sub and have the XO set at 100 Hz or higher?
Dave and Chris also might have some floor standing MarKen designs of compact size too?
Both the Alp 7.3 and CHR-70.3 work in the Half Towers - Dave can comment if changes to the port are required from last update of plans (depending on choice of driver). The Half Towers are decent sounding for their size and since it is for HT, I am assuming you will have a sub and have the XO set at 100 Hz or higher?
Dave and Chris also might have some floor standing MarKen designs of compact size too?
Dave and Chris also might have some floor standing MarKen designs of compact size too?
Only for EL70/CHP70.1/A10x
dave
First thought is that the Alpair7.3 is a more refined driver than any of the CH - series, period - and for my money, worth the difference every time.
The compact floorstander enclosure that has been mentioned elsewhere is the shallowest design in which I've heard any of Mark's drivers. It's another one of Dave's clever topologies that has so far been able to accommodate a range of drivers with changes in volume (by adjusting width) and tuning - (length of internal port slot). I currently run a pair with A10Ps in my own 5.1 rig, along with a "matching" centre channel enclosure. They replaced Pensil7s and centre - as much as anything, just because I felt like changing speakers at the same time as upgrading the receiver (from Denon to an Onkyo)
Back to the CFS-Ken , I would imagine versions for 7.3 and other drivers in this weight class would be possible, but if not, the Pensil 7.3 is a known performer, and at just under 11" deep, not all that obtrusive.
What, if anything, do you have in mind for the centre channel?
The compact floorstander enclosure that has been mentioned elsewhere is the shallowest design in which I've heard any of Mark's drivers. It's another one of Dave's clever topologies that has so far been able to accommodate a range of drivers with changes in volume (by adjusting width) and tuning - (length of internal port slot). I currently run a pair with A10Ps in my own 5.1 rig, along with a "matching" centre channel enclosure. They replaced Pensil7s and centre - as much as anything, just because I felt like changing speakers at the same time as upgrading the receiver (from Denon to an Onkyo)
Back to the CFS-Ken , I would imagine versions for 7.3 and other drivers in this weight class would be possible, but if not, the Pensil 7.3 is a known performer, and at just under 11" deep, not all that obtrusive.
What, if anything, do you have in mind for the centre channel?
As already said in this discussion:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/165297-pensil-7-alpair-7-a-18.html
I coudn't find a lot of design for center channel...only this one:
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen7-centreA-070311.pdf
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/165297-pensil-7-alpair-7-a-18.html
I coudn't find a lot of design for center channel...only this one:
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen7-centreA-070311.pdf
There are versions of that theme for any driver that we have put into a miniOnken... my intent is to release one for every driver that fits into FH Mk3 or FHXL. I just finished the drawing for the A10.3 variation... you need A7.3?
dave
dave
dMar-Ken7.3 CentreA released as part of the Frugel-Horn project
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/dMarKen73-centreA-030513.pdf
Really could use an 18mm baffle, increase the space between vent shalt and back by 2mm.
dave
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/dMarKen73-centreA-030513.pdf
Really could use an 18mm baffle, increase the space between vent shalt and back by 2mm.
dave
dMar-Ken7.3 CentreA released as part of the Frugel-Horn project
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/dMarKen73-centreA-030513.pdf
Really could use an 18mm baffle, increase the space between vent shalt and back by 2mm.
dave
Thank you so much!🙂
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- microTower bipolar ML-TL for CHR-70 or EL70