While looking over the half tower plans it specifies a port length of 1 3/8" X 2 1/4" length it also said an optional port diameter and length of 2 X 6". Which would be better to use?
Pluvia 7 for Micro Tower
Hi all
Please advice. Are Pluvia 7 adequate option for original MTs?
TIA
Hi all
Please advice. Are Pluvia 7 adequate option for original MTs?
TIA
Yes.
The plans linkend in Post 1 have a page of suitable vents for different drivers. CHN70 = Pluvia Seven (same tuning as A7p)
dave
The plans linkend in Post 1 have a page of suitable vents for different drivers. CHN70 = Pluvia Seven (same tuning as A7p)
dave
guys, which is the diference between use one speaker at front and another facing top or facing up?
I mean in sound quality / imaging...
I mean in sound quality / imaging...
I never spent much time listening to the original bipole - room placement is a perennial issue with me, but have built 3 pairs the "Castle" - second driver up -firing, and quite like the spacious sound stage compared to say a monopole Pensil. My favorite is with the top angled at 10dg facing into the room - current pair is actually a variation on MTM with CHBW70, ERT 26 tweeters and a crossover Bob at CSS that I think was designed by Dave R?
.
.
Not sure about the topology - it's probably been a couple of years- and I think Mr R would note that in some cases, a parallel is the way to go.
And of course my co-opting the circuit for a configuration with substantially different acoustic radiation pattern than a lightly spaced MTM for which it was likely intended is almost certainly fraught with performance issues - it's a good thing those things don't get to me too much these days.
And of course my co-opting the circuit for a configuration with substantially different acoustic radiation pattern than a lightly spaced MTM for which it was likely intended is almost certainly fraught with performance issues - it's a good thing those things don't get to me too much these days.
Model number of a budget soft dome marketed by CSS a few years ago, built by Mark Audio - ERT26 . Along with either a single or dual CHBW70s, or Bob's own WR125 ST XBL motored drivers, make for quite a nice little system.
does anybody have a cut-sheet or definate dimensions for a castle enclosure with the slanted (10 degrees?) top? I think this is what i would like to build but it would be helpful if I had cut-sheet dimensions as these are going to a wood supplier for all vertical cuts...then i take to carpenter for holes and bevels...
also... any affordable amplifier recommendations?
also... any affordable amplifier recommendations?
I have never done complete drawings for the low slope castle. The sides and back will need to be a bit longer (but that won’t affect your vertical cuts, and the top will be the same width as the front or the sides depending on how you over-lie the panels (Chris would build with the top inset between the front/back and side panels). A slanetd top will be slightly longer than a flat-top.
dave
dave
dave, thanks so much for the response. my question then, is this:
if I am sitting in a 3 meter X 3 meter X 10 meter long concrete room, is the forward tilt of the top speaker necessary? I will probably always sit within 2 - 3 meters from the speakers.
Well, I’ve built at least 4 pairs so far - a current build for personal use is far enough from Dave’s original plans that it probably deserves its own name ( 2.5 way with pair of CSS VWR 126 & Hi-Vi soft dome tweeter TN25) - but I’ve definitely found that the angled forward top is well worth the extra bit of work. My various blatherings in that regard shouldn’t be hard to find here.
If you can wait until early next week, I should be able to resurrect the cut plan for the last two pairs.
Three and 1/2 questions:
Would this be a hand-bomb job, or for CNC? That will affect how tightly nested the parts can be on the sheet.
Type of joinery? Butt, dadoed with front & backs inset - my personal favourite, or 45 bevels / lock mitre? I’m too impatient for those
What size sheet material?
I exclusively use and recommend BB ply or the local equivalent - depending on your supply source, those may be offered as 5X5 ft or 4x8 ft sheets. Assuming such material, and as it’s my own little peccadillo - and even though I usually veneer cabinets after assembly - I normally layout for grain figuring to run long - i.e. vertical on the sides / back & front
If you can wait until early next week, I should be able to resurrect the cut plan for the last two pairs.
Three and 1/2 questions:
Would this be a hand-bomb job, or for CNC? That will affect how tightly nested the parts can be on the sheet.
Type of joinery? Butt, dadoed with front & backs inset - my personal favourite, or 45 bevels / lock mitre? I’m too impatient for those
What size sheet material?
I exclusively use and recommend BB ply or the local equivalent - depending on your supply source, those may be offered as 5X5 ft or 4x8 ft sheets. Assuming such material, and as it’s my own little peccadillo - and even though I usually veneer cabinets after assembly - I normally layout for grain figuring to run long - i.e. vertical on the sides / back & front
Hi chrisb:
1. hand bomb job... they will cut the horizontal and vertical cuts at the lumber yard...only square pieces.
2. I think dado with front and back inset. I see a hand router in my future.
3. I am not sure yet... I was at the lumber yard yesterday and looking for MDF. They have the 18mm 183x244 and 215 x 244 sheets
I will look for the 11 ply Birch and confirm this week.
1. hand bomb job... they will cut the horizontal and vertical cuts at the lumber yard...only square pieces.
2. I think dado with front and back inset. I see a hand router in my future.
3. I am not sure yet... I was at the lumber yard yesterday and looking for MDF. They have the 18mm 183x244 and 215 x 244 sheets
I will look for the 11 ply Birch and confirm this week.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.