pizzachef:
how much bracing did you include?
I'd suspect that additional stuffing would mitigate the bass issues, and that if there remains issues with attainable SPLs, first try HP filtering them at around 100-120 and adding dual separately powered woofers
how much bracing did you include?
I'd suspect that additional stuffing would mitigate the bass issues, and that if there remains issues with attainable SPLs, first try HP filtering them at around 100-120 and adding dual separately powered woofers
Bracing top to bottom with holey braces, alternating directions (front-back, side-side).
You notion about the bass filtering is a good one.
You notion about the bass filtering is a good one.
Bracing top to bottom with holey braces, alternating directions (front-back, side-side).
You notion about the bass filtering is a good one.
Play with the stuffing a bit as well - to be honest, our two pairs weren't built to accommodate easy adjustment of the fill, so we've not had the opportunity to play with that. It'd probably be easier for me to build another pair than retrofit these, but to be honest they sound good enough ( EL70s in my case) that I'm happy to leave well enough alone.
how often does a DIYer say that?
The only shortcoming of this speaker is that in a large room they are not quite loud enough on some metal music I want to crank up. Jazz, classical, vocals are all fine. If I continue to love these, I might try designing a larger box for something like an Alpair 10 to try to get a bit more volume.
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Pizzachef,
Beautiful build congrats!
These Alps are very revealing and tend to bring out the harshness and noise in metal music... I have Alp 12s. I've had best results playing around with the digital EQ - in the parametric EQ software of my sound card I cut 3 dB in mids and 3 dB from top, and 2-3 dB boost in bass makes a lot metal/hard rock enjoyable.
For metal I think either a FAST system would be good. Or maybe the new CHP-70 which has a rolled off top and warm sound.
More damping should tame the bass.
The best approach to getting more bass,more level, and better midrange is toadd woofer support and hi-pass the microTowers (60-80 hz would be where i'd start)
dave
The best approach to getting more bass,more level, and better midrange is toadd woofer support and hi-pass the microTowers (60-80 hz would be where i'd start)
dave
I just picked up a pair of the EPI Micro Tower M-75. Nice condition and the drivers are in good shape. They do sound a bit peaky at certain frequencies. Any suggested tweaks that I can do to these?
Peter C.
Peter C.
Any suggested tweaks that I can do to these?
Pictures? Also be interesting to see what drivers they use.
You might try ERT26, that is what i'm going to use in mine. BTW, took ours to my godsons birthdayparty today, with a Trends t-amp and an iPod they did very good service as outdoor music.
dave
chrisb , the comparison...
chris, thanks for the comments. As I originally thought (Castle style micro-towers vs. CHR70eN Primes), but without having ever heard any of the micro-towers tough to be sure. I have no clue what folks who feel that the bass is lacking on the CHR70eN' enclosures are talking about. I find the bass quite satisfying with the Primes (or do we write it ken' , Dave? 😉 ). Regarding the use of sub(s) with any speaker system:
chris, thanks for the comments. As I originally thought (Castle style micro-towers vs. CHR70eN Primes), but without having ever heard any of the micro-towers tough to be sure. I have no clue what folks who feel that the bass is lacking on the CHR70eN' enclosures are talking about. I find the bass quite satisfying with the Primes (or do we write it ken' , Dave? 😉 ). Regarding the use of sub(s) with any speaker system:
- a pair is always better than one
- TL style subs with dedicated amplifier and cross-overs makes a ton of sense.
... the Primes (or do we write it ken' , Dave? 😉 ).
Prime is a size (Fonken, Mar-Kel, Mar-Ken10 are all prime sized (no prefix)), 'Ken is the family (used interchangably with miniOnken or Fonken-stryle)
dave
dave, I guess the point of the question was missed
ken' = ken prime, as in x'=x prime 🙂
I figured a math guy would get it. Ooops, my bad.
ken' = ken prime, as in x'=x prime 🙂
I figured a math guy would get it. Ooops, my bad.
ken' = ken prime, as in x'=x prime 🙂
I figured a math guy would get it. Ooops, my bad.
actually, the prime most likely just refers to the first of the family
Hello planet10:
Do you mean adding ERT26 tweeters? If that's what you mean what value cap. should I use? I want to add better wire and remove the fibreglass. By removing the fibreglass can I replace it with the acoustic stuffing adding the same amount and located in the same area?
Have I asked too many questions?
Peter C.
Do you mean adding ERT26 tweeters? If that's what you mean what value cap. should I use? I want to add better wire and remove the fibreglass. By removing the fibreglass can I replace it with the acoustic stuffing adding the same amount and located in the same area?
Have I asked too many questions?
Peter C.
Hello planet10:
Do you mean adding ERT26 tweeters?
yes
- sorta depends on how low you want to roll them in - I'd suggest starting around 6K or so, and cause I'm lazy, I'd use something like this calcuator:If that's what you mean what value cap. should I use?
2-Way Crossover Designer / Calculator
that'd be a good place to start, but keep in mind that the originals were a very low budget product designed to "amaze your friends" with the SPL and (mid)bass attainable from such a little box, and were not optimally tuned, so you might end up adding more than the original 'glassI want to add better wire and remove the fibreglass. By removing the fibreglass can I replace it with the acoustic stuffing adding the same amount and located in the same area?
not yetHave I asked too many questions?
Peter C.
with all the metric prefixes on the smaller boxes a prime is analogous to metre, gram, etc...
dave
dave
Hello planet10:
Do you mean adding ERT26 tweeters? If that's what you mean what value cap. should I use? I want to add better wire and remove the fibreglass. By removing the fibreglass can I replace it with the acoustic stuffing adding the same amount and located in the same area?
Have I asked too many questions?
Yes.
You'd have to play around a bit. I can't recall where EPI xoed in the MT2, i'd guess you want to look at 1-4 uF. I'm going to start with 2 on our CHP70.3 microTowers (after i coax Chris to rebate for them)
You can use well fluffed out polyfluff or UltraTouch or similar. You'll need to play a bit.As they are with the fiberglass they are probably a little underdamped.
No such thing as too many questions. 🙂
dave
I don't know when I will have time to play with them but restuffing is a easy start.
I have a tri-amp setup and will test at what setting the crossover freq. sound best by using a bi-amp setup. I have the Behringer CX3400.
I will buy the tweeters in the near future, but for now I have a cheap pair that sound pretty good and go with those for now. I was thinking of mounting them in a small housing of some sort and place them on top of the cab. I don't want to start cutting holes in them right now.
Peter C.
I have a tri-amp setup and will test at what setting the crossover freq. sound best by using a bi-amp setup. I have the Behringer CX3400.
I will buy the tweeters in the near future, but for now I have a cheap pair that sound pretty good and go with those for now. I was thinking of mounting them in a small housing of some sort and place them on top of the cab. I don't want to start cutting holes in them right now.
Peter C.
Here are the pic's of the EPI M-75
Peter C.
Numbers on the driver magnet? Square or round magnet slug?
dave
actually, the prime most likely just refers to the first of the family
That is where is originated, coming about because the design is so fecund, but has taken on a slightly different meaning now.
dave
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