Markaudio Alpair 11ms simple tweak (and other metal cone MarkAudio?)

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The top end on some drivers drives me nuts. Jordan JX92s/Eikona, 1st gen Alpair 10/6 i found quite fatiguing. The second gen Markaudio 7.3/10.2 were greatly improved, A10.2 still having a bit of edge. Alpair 10.3 got even closer to the A7.3.

Note that the Markaudio drivers were fully EnABLed.

This is about my annoyance with the top of the Alpair 11ms. And to a lessor extent the A7ms.

Taking into consideration the many complaints and measurements on the Alpair 10.3 of some significant issues up top. Something i did not hear in the A10.3eN (they did have a bit of edge that went away with many hours). @waxx @wchang

There have been comments about the edge on the A7/11ms by at least a few members.

So i thot it would be worthwhile to try the simple mod lifted from EnABL that was most likely the cause of the ringing. So i did the penultimate step of the EnABL treatment, 2 coats of acrylic gloss (diluted 50%) on the cone and one on the dustcap. Sort of analogous to a dirt cheap MAOP but instead of electoning the topfew molecules of the cone, we add a layer many molecules think on top. The purpose of what i have is to paint over decals on model planes/trains/cars.


it is difficult, but possible, to reverse the mod.

Bernie put them in these Compact Floorstander Mar-Ken11ms. These are high quality solid wood build like the Sibelius.


I had heard these stock (and also his Pensil/A11ms & FH3/A7ms builds). When they came back with these drivers installed it wasn’t very long before i thot i had something. A month+ in they have not driven me up the wall.

But i’d like to see if some members would be brave enuff to try it on their drivers. And some who have measured and added notches, does it obviate (or reduce the magnitude) of the notch.

A10.3, A7/11ms in particular but if is working, probably on things like the little Founteks too.

Not great light, but some alround shots.


Questions? Volunteers?


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I can't volunteer at this time, but someday if I am able to get another set of MA drivers, I am just enticed enough to try such a thing. FR drivers have this downside for me generally speaking. Yes, of course, some drivers more than others.
Question: How was this 'finish' applied?
But i’d like to see if some members would be brave enuff to try it on their drivers. And some who have measured and added notches, does it obviate (or reduce the magnitude) of the notch.
Thanks dave I'm game. As usual will do one side some and compare, then ladder-climbing fashion the other side a bit extra and compare; etc.

Can't see Brernie jpgs.

Questions: Only apply to the entire cone front? How wide a brush or spray? Should I run them in first? A5.3? (I have Mark Audio old A5.2; new A5.3; rescued new MAOP5; new A10.3; and 2pr new CHP-10.)

Way back when, I did acquire an EnABL kit (intended for JX92S probably) and had it on my nightstand... until no longer to be found.
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Dave, I'm very likely to do this fairly soon. I'm looking for your comments on application (beyond slather twice). When you say 'notches' I'm guessing passive notch filters. I do not have those, but am using Nelson Pass' Full Range EQ cards. To my old ears, those active EQ cards do the job, but I want to try the Microscale Gloss coating as well, as the combination of the cards and the coating would be a useful test.

Thanks for pointing me to this Dave.
I still kinda like the idea and the look of the Enabl "dashes". Are they that hard to do, that critical in pattern etc?

I wonder about the full cone treatment -- is there danger of dissolving the adhesives on the cone/surround?
Also, I'm not a great painter. But I have done some calligraphy.
Joined 2001
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One could make a gear-tooth circle jig out of just about anything, that flexed into different diameter circles. Then just in-fill along the rim.

That is sort of how i do it. A bunch of disks just the right size for each ringset with the EnABL pattern at the edges as a template.

In the EnABL Techniques thread there is lots of speculation on how to automate it. A “robot” tool is needed.

Joined 2001
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Question: How was this 'finish' applied?


About a cm across, synthetic bristles.

Questions: Only apply to the entire cone front?

Yes. Dilute with water. Distilled preferred i guess. My tap wate ris pretty good.

Should I run them in first?

I always have. I expect almost any metal cone with ringing up top could benefit. Not sure on the MAOP. The electrons have already done something similar.

My first experiemnt was on a budget MCM metal cone mid bass, where i sused piuzzlekoat. It can really kill the top end grunge as well as the top end. Cleaned the top so i could roll in a tweeter. I just use puzzlekoat on paper cone drivers, thinner and less of it.



(beyond slather twice).

You want to apply as little as possible and still coat the cone, more so on the second coat, evenly.

More will suppress more top. In some cases that might be beneficial. But much easier to apply than remove.

When you say 'notches'

Historically they have been pasisve, but DSP, and now Nelson’s simple Q board does the same thing.

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