Finally redid the stuffing, and started with the F2 unloaded (meaning 16 ohms output impedance/DF 0,5. Now settled on two extra 47R’s in parallell, for approx 8 ohms output impedance and a DF of 1 into the 12Ps. Ripson (if I remember correctly) told a similar story a while back. Sounds very, very good. Dynamic and tight, but not dry, bass. Will use it like this for a while.
With the F2J, Dire Straits sounds just like I always dreamed it should 🙂
With the F2J, Dire Straits sounds just like I always dreamed it should 🙂
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I had forgotten that one a lot more general than the A6/7/10/12p specific. They take less work than some
There is a cosmetic thing too… opportunity to change colour
dave
There is a cosmetic thing too… opportunity to change colour
dave
Would you say it is worth it sonic-wise?
Kind of afraid of ruining the drivers with too much or too little.
Kind of afraid of ruining the drivers with too much or too little.
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I two not yet run across a paper cone driver that has not benefitted (n>100).
With a FR one has to take more care. It is a pretty easy way to improve DDR.
Full EnABL as in the pics much harder (and controversial). Puzzlekoat on paper is a preprep I added to the process.
Imagine a pile of sticks as your paper (wood or other fibre) vibrating. PZ bonds the sticks together so they don’t vibrate reducing cone self-noise and no longer burying the small details that are so important.
I have been experimenting and refining my use since the late ’70s.
As long as you do not use too much, get it even, and don’t thin it too much it is hard to screw up.
dave
With a FR one has to take more care. It is a pretty easy way to improve DDR.
Full EnABL as in the pics much harder (and controversial). Puzzlekoat on paper is a preprep I added to the process.
Imagine a pile of sticks as your paper (wood or other fibre) vibrating. PZ bonds the sticks together so they don’t vibrate reducing cone self-noise and no longer burying the small details that are so important.
I have been experimenting and refining my use since the late ’70s.
As long as you do not use too much, get it even, and don’t thin it too much it is hard to screw up.
dave
Seems very worth a shot. Everything matters I suppose: temperature, brush width etc, speed of application, and so on.
Furthermore: can one see if it is good enough or is listening the only way to tell? And also, I guess it implies a new break in period. I only have one set of drivers, and you have been experiencing for the better part of 50 years.
So still a bit of afraid!
However, I do have a steady hand, and I have done my fair share of paintwork.
I have a set of broken 12Ps to try it on first, think I have to use them for starters. Then maybe post a pic for approval here? If at all possible to verify visually?
That set has likely broken spiders. Guess that’s outta my reach to fix.
Furthermore: can one see if it is good enough or is listening the only way to tell? And also, I guess it implies a new break in period. I only have one set of drivers, and you have been experiencing for the better part of 50 years.
So still a bit of afraid!
However, I do have a steady hand, and I have done my fair share of paintwork.
I have a set of broken 12Ps to try it on first, think I have to use them for starters. Then maybe post a pic for approval here? If at all possible to verify visually?
That set has likely broken spiders. Guess that’s outta my reach to fix.
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Usually donw inside at room temperature.
Lots of subtlty yes, probably a good idea to practice on a less sensitive (to getting it perfect) like a woofer or something you plan on using in the shed or blowing up.
Brush width elates to the size of the cone, it can start drying so fast that one side is drying before you even get to the other side, the bigger the cone, the more likey. This applies to how quickly you apply, fasyter the better, but be tidy.
Thinking: needs to be thin enuff to appy but not so much as to warp the paper (i have done that on FE166), Since each jar of decoupage seems a bit different consistency (and even more so if you are slowly going thru a big jar). I like to say about the same sort of viscosity as transmission fluid. Maybe. On a FR it takes very little, so ModPodge in a small container and add a drop a time till right. At this stage colour, i typically use high-end food colour recommended by Jeff’s )VinylKid) wife. Trying to get black is difficult, but india ink gives a very dark blue that turns an MA blue cone into one of this near black colours that would get an exotic name like midnight instead of black (because it is not quite). A vibrant Blue is a favorite, and the black. I have done colours specifically to try to match the boxes they are in, one particular favourite are the rose ones (use bright red) in the mMar-Ken6p which i thot did a good job of embarrasing my buddies LS3/5A. Remember that what you end up with colourwise is a combo of the blue cone and whatever you add. Note that a white cone doe not guarantee the colour you apply sticks… i tried to make an early FE126En blue… they turned green. Blue of these cones is really tricky, i did it eventually but i couldn’t say how. I did way more A10p thatn A6p, and only 2 pair of A12p (same Jeff as above has apair in his SuperPensils).
dave
A bit, but what you already broke in is mostly the spider, the mass added is well within unit-to-unit manufactiring spread,
Likey the case, bad enuff they don’t work at all or that they just don’t work quite right?
dave
Splendid, thank you, Dave!
I noticed there are several types of Mod Podge. Among these are matt and blank, seemingly multipurpose. Then there is one intended for use on paper. Any specific type that is best for the application?
Also: Using only Mod Podge is OK? I assume puzzle coat is the equivalent and not an extra product needing to be put on initially?
I am considering not using colours, at least initially.
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They do work, but they distort to my ears, and. The spiders move a lot and one of them seems looser than the other.
Then yes, play with them. You might need to use them as midYweeters to keep the load off them. Add a couple woofers and XO as high as you can while keeping close to ¼ wavelength C-C. Use them for load and heavy.
Puzzlekoat wa the brandname i started out with in the late 70s, it is kool so i just use it for a generic name. ModPodge is fairly common brand, I have tried a couple others they all work very similar, but usually come at different consistencies. I like using the semi-gloss.
https://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
dave
Puzzlekoat wa the brandname i started out with in the late 70s, it is kool so i just use it for a generic name. ModPodge is fairly common brand, I have tried a couple others they all work very similar, but usually come at different consistencies. I like using the semi-gloss.
https://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html
dave
Hi, friends! Originally posted this in the F2 clone thread, but realize it is even more relevant here.
Yesterday I found the time to add an improvised parallell test network with some parts I had laying around, meaning non-optimized at all. It really made a difference, friends!
Values concocted from Papa’s article from drivers with similar impedance curves. I set the -3db @ 1900-ish hz with the parts I had, hoping for primarily two things: reduced midrange level, less treble peaking and in turn: more bass for the buck. Allready have 3x47R across the amps output terminals iot increase damping factor, now sitting at around 1,2 which seems pretty perfect. Now with the parallell network there is just more of that nice bass, mids are a wee bit subdued and highs bety nice. More balanced and even more relaxed.
Need to make this serious, and buy a mike. But for now, I’ll enjoy it as is 🙂
For those wondering: RC consists of 8R/10uF. A bit high for both, but it’s a start. In time, finding ideal values, I’ll prolly make a box or something for the network.
Regards,
Baby V