mattew only has evix rifa in 22000uf and they are big!! will fit BHC and change to nicheron later.
on another note see this - full wave bridge rectifiers for audiophile hifi audio amplifiers from Avondale Audio : avondale audio ony7.50£
tc
on another note see this - full wave bridge rectifiers for audiophile hifi audio amplifiers from Avondale Audio : avondale audio ony7.50£
tc
Nice module but some say HEXFRED sound better. I found schottkies, in an integrated amp, sounded very clinical and bright. I was astonished the rectifier bridge could do this!
hexfred are in a different set up completly and needs someone to scratch out a sketch.
will go for this as the price for the unit and diodes is 17£, which isn't bad abd looks good too.
Tc
will go for this as the price for the unit and diodes is 17£, which isn't bad abd looks good too.
Tc
@ rowemesiter :
I've recently come back to this thread after managing to pick up a non-working ki for just under £70 from eBay but I've notice that you've updated your site and its missing the links and info for the amps that you built. I was wondering if you still had the collection of pictures and the pdf spec of the higher spec amp, and also if there were any other mods you would recommended on top of what you previous did?
Many thanks in advance,
Adam 🙂
I've recently come back to this thread after managing to pick up a non-working ki for just under £70 from eBay but I've notice that you've updated your site and its missing the links and info for the amps that you built. I was wondering if you still had the collection of pictures and the pdf spec of the higher spec amp, and also if there were any other mods you would recommended on top of what you previous did?
Many thanks in advance,
Adam 🙂
read all from page 1, it detials how to get working amp. i have followed brents advice and changed the wiring and the silver micas, but used polystyrene. does sound very good. next is big caps and schotties.
go for it,
TC
go for it,
TC
Thanks very much for both your replies. I managed to get the amp running before xmas (costing me £0.63 for new parts) and I've upped the idle current a bit and that seems to already made a large difference to my ears. According to the spec of the better amp you finished rowemeister . . . . would there be anything else you would change to improve on your creation?
Thanks Adam 🙂
Thanks Adam 🙂
Problem - fitted BHC 63v 22000uf caps into amp, wired from board to cap and fitted cap to rear panel, caps are polar, and i have fitted them correct way around. on switching on mains fuse blew (250mv 1.6A) on checking cap values one holds far more charge than other, i have fitted a cap across positive to even out with no value change. off to buy new fuses now. any advice?
Tc
Tc
Hehe the fun of upgrades.
Measure the caps using a ohm meter (with no power on). They should measure short and then quickly ramp up the ohms. I f they measure short then you have made a mistake somewhere. You may also find you might have to up the fuse rating to 2A as the input surge could be too big for the 1.6A now.
Is it a glass fuse? If so did it flash and leave the whole of the fuse black or did it just lightly blow?
Brent
Measure the caps using a ohm meter (with no power on). They should measure short and then quickly ramp up the ohms. I f they measure short then you have made a mistake somewhere. You may also find you might have to up the fuse rating to 2A as the input surge could be too big for the 1.6A now.
Is it a glass fuse? If so did it flash and leave the whole of the fuse black or did it just lightly blow?
Brent
glass, flash and black. they are timed delay, just bought replacements and will try in a sec.
Tc
Tc
I have put the original caps back in via the wires to the board and i still get a blown fuse?
Tc
Tc
I am simply getting a higher value on one side than the other with either cap in place, something is inbalanced.
Tc
Tc
Check all your recently soldered joints connectivity with their neighbours using your DMM. If your PCB is in a similar state to mine then the copper track can be fragile and break when removing or inserting the caps. I never blew a fuse, but I did have one of my output resisters heat up like crazy and start smoking because of a broken track.
thanks for advice, from DMM tests there is no voltage across half of the rectifier bridge, would this fail like this? it would support the non charge of the cap on that side. i have yet to change the bridge to sckottes (?) any advice?
Tc
Tc
You need to test the resistance between + and gnd and - and gnd on the bridge to see if there is a short circuit.
Brent
Brent
reading are 6uf + vs 2uf -. so the bridge is defunct. will change this to schottys now.
thanks
Tc
thanks
Tc