Peterma, it's easier to start from scratch, and build the xover onto a piece of ply,
for example look at how Troels does it near the bottom of this page:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic-mkII
for example look at how Troels does it near the bottom of this page:
SEAS-3-Way-Classic-mkII
I'll second the vote for speakerbug.
I've heard they can build crossovers.
Maybe send them an email and see what they say.
I've heard they can build crossovers.
Maybe send them an email and see what they say.
speaker bug quoted $700 for a pair of crossovers which is too steap. im not questioning the quality but i cant afford this amount.
Silly prices for a design having a closed frame midrange...
I guess that Pete from St. Marys can fix the speakers with components he has in the drawer!
Edit: no, it has ( the midrange) a little box in behind.
Still, strange design. The supertweeter can be dissed in favour of a modern tweeter component. What's the name speakerbug if they didn't care to inform you about the possibility of putting better components instead of the ...
I guess that Pete from St. Marys can fix the speakers with components he has in the drawer!
Edit: no, it has ( the midrange) a little box in behind.
Still, strange design. The supertweeter can be dissed in favour of a modern tweeter component. What's the name speakerbug if they didn't care to inform you about the possibility of putting better components instead of the ...
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That would include: receiving the speakers, put everything ok ( with warranty), and sending back to you.
Some kind of a sanity check for a vintage piece.
I'd do it other way -DIY way...
1) re-design: elimination of the stw and ...invest those $$$ in buying a tweeter AND a new CNC'ed aluminum baffle
2) listen to the woofer-mid-tw on the new baffle, with external crossover ( no L-Pads, thanks)
🙂
Whoa, budget already overblown. I think we would be best to advise how to cut corners 😉
Interesting, I have some thoughts on L-pads. Great for tweaking to find the correct levels by ear. Unnecessary in a final design because tone controls are a better way to make small adjustments. Your thoughts?
Better to use the box as woofer enclosure only. There's a duct dictating the design 😡
Mid & tw do not suffer of being placed outsiver, however
I had some hanging around 😛😱
The original purpose of the rehostats in front of the box was the ability to dose the quantity of the contribution to overall sound, some professional touch along with some leds or fuses.
Since I reject all the old stuff for all the summentioned gadgets, go figure...
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Naah, I was talking about What to do with that sum of money
A Mdf baffle 1" to cover all the holes would suffice.
Flared ducts for BR function better that truncated
Modern tweeters on-axis and off-axis have a better emission
The original project is lost but who cares.
The stw is somehow nice but the scattered speakers on the baffle + the BR duct hole put me on alert...
Wild discussion of restoring a pair of vintage loudspeakers! 4-way with a supertweeter offset in the panel is not the ideally best, but typical for the early '80s era.
I found a pic of 880 model xo Marantz HD 880 Crossover Pair Complete Tested Free Ship | #165770419
Components shouldn't be expensive and we do have scematics with values. Obviously original potentiometers (at least panels+knobs) are left and functioning
I found a pic of 880 model xo Marantz HD 880 Crossover Pair Complete Tested Free Ship | #165770419
Components shouldn't be expensive and we do have scematics with values. Obviously original potentiometers (at least panels+knobs) are left and functioning
.Right so.
Parts tally comes to $400.
Thats capacitors, resistors, inductors, L-Pads, wire.
Labour and sundry comes to $300.
Thats ply to mount everything, glue, solder, screws.
i have caps that would be ok, and resitors so just the inductors and lpads ineed so i will have to understand a reasearch about inductances for the right choice.
i know its crazy trying to restore a 40yr set of speakers, i know they sound superb because i have had marantz in my 20s now im nearing 60yr maybe i need to se a
Psychiatrist.
Psychiatrist.
Trying to recapture a sound is not crazy, IMO anyway.
In all except one position, you should not get the expensive inductors because the resistance is expected to, or meant to be high. Buying low resistance inductors would be like putting premium petrol into your lawnmower, nothing but a waste.
In the one remaining position, you can still get away with the cheaper inductors. And don't waste money on fancy wire.
In all except one position, you should not get the expensive inductors because the resistance is expected to, or meant to be high. Buying low resistance inductors would be like putting premium petrol into your lawnmower, nothing but a waste.
In the one remaining position, you can still get away with the cheaper inductors. And don't waste money on fancy wire.
Speakerbug inductors total to 129$
Air-Core 0.47mH 21AWG
Air-Core 1.2mH 21AWG
Air-Core 2.5mH 20AWG
P-Core 0.75mH 17AWG
P-Core 1.5mH 17AWG
Add resistors to the air core inductors to arrive at specified dcr.
Air-Core 0.47mH 21AWG
Air-Core 1.2mH 21AWG
Air-Core 2.5mH 20AWG
P-Core 0.75mH 17AWG
P-Core 1.5mH 17AWG
Add resistors to the air core inductors to arrive at specified dcr.