CD67SE muffled channel output
Thanks Jaap, I'll start on the DAC area and then the following paths (that was exactly the advice I was looking for🙂 ).
Regards
Pete
Thanks Jaap, I'll start on the DAC area and then the following paths (that was exactly the advice I was looking for🙂 ).
Regards
Pete
I've read on this thread that an OPA627 mated with an OPA132 is a good combination.
What is your opinion of combining the OPA627 with an AD8610?
Thanks,
Simon
What is your opinion of combining the OPA627 with an AD8610?
Thanks,
Simon
Modified Marantz CD63 is great!
I had very good luck and could buy on a fleamarket a California Labs Audio Sigma DAC and a Delta transport for a few bucks.
One and a half year ago, this DAC was my favourite in a listening comparison with different CD players, including a "standard" CD63.
Today, when I compare my heavily modified CD63 (see earlier in this thread, tweaks by Gerald Gessner) with the CAL Sigma: on the first "view", the CAL seems to be better, more clear, more details and stronger bass.
But after many listening sessions with good known recordings, I clearly prefer the CD63 over the CAL.
They really are great, this CD63, to tweak them!
Franz
P.S.
I plan to add a direct output after the CAL's CS4328 DAC, as described in the datasheet (51R/10nF lowpass, ready to drive 600 Ohm at line level). I am quite sure, the audio stage from the CAL Sigma DAC is adding some asymetries to the signal, some harmonic distortions.
I had very good luck and could buy on a fleamarket a California Labs Audio Sigma DAC and a Delta transport for a few bucks.
One and a half year ago, this DAC was my favourite in a listening comparison with different CD players, including a "standard" CD63.
Today, when I compare my heavily modified CD63 (see earlier in this thread, tweaks by Gerald Gessner) with the CAL Sigma: on the first "view", the CAL seems to be better, more clear, more details and stronger bass.
But after many listening sessions with good known recordings, I clearly prefer the CD63 over the CAL.
They really are great, this CD63, to tweak them!
Franz
P.S.
I plan to add a direct output after the CAL's CS4328 DAC, as described in the datasheet (51R/10nF lowpass, ready to drive 600 Ohm at line level). I am quite sure, the audio stage from the CAL Sigma DAC is adding some asymetries to the signal, some harmonic distortions.
Is Ray still around this thread? I'm looking to e-mail him for the CD67 Service Manual and can't since I'm a newbie! Can someone please e-mail it to me instead?
I guess I should introduce ... I am an analog guy making a step into the digital world. I have about 200 CD's and need to play them! My current system is a Rega TT with a HIGHLY modified ST-70 running a pair of Klipsch. I have a lead on a CD67SE that I plan to mod thanks to this thread.
Great information guys!
I guess I should introduce ... I am an analog guy making a step into the digital world. I have about 200 CD's and need to play them! My current system is a Rega TT with a HIGHLY modified ST-70 running a pair of Klipsch. I have a lead on a CD67SE that I plan to mod thanks to this thread.
Great information guys!
craigtone said:
Hey Craig,
Speaking of the devil
....Welcome to this thread! A CD67SE is an excellent choice for modding 🙂
You can download the service manual on my crappy homepage: www.raylectronics.nl
Regards,
Ray
YoungSC said:
Hi Simon,
These are both very fine opamps, I use them both together as well with other ones. Just try and listen to various combinations to find your favorite sound. You can put the 627 after the DAC and 8610 in the filter (with some adapters) and then swap them to see which combo you like best.
Ray.
ps: but there's nothing that beat's a good FET output-stage 😀
--OFF TOPIC--OFF TOPIC--OFF TOPIC--OFF TOPIC--
On my crappy homepage (www.raylectronics.nl) you'll also find some pic's of my latest project: a balanced power source. If anyone is looking for another upgrade of their audio-setup: this one is highly recommended! I didn't expect the difference to be very big, but it is clearly audible! The sound now permanently has that "peace and quiet" that you have when you are listening late at night, when all the electrical equipment in the neighbourhood is turned off. Amazing. Will post the schamatic soon.
Regards,
Ray
On my crappy homepage (www.raylectronics.nl) you'll also find some pic's of my latest project: a balanced power source. If anyone is looking for another upgrade of their audio-setup: this one is highly recommended! I didn't expect the difference to be very big, but it is clearly audible! The sound now permanently has that "peace and quiet" that you have when you are listening late at night, when all the electrical equipment in the neighbourhood is turned off. Amazing. Will post the schamatic soon.
Regards,
Ray
RCh problem in cd63ki
Hi guys,
Recently, the right channel of my cd-63ki has started playing muffled, giving only low frequencies. I checked the circuit for faults and observed following:
pins 7 and 8 of Q105 (TCA 0372) shows 0 volts instead of 2.5
my ckt has c521 (10pf) in place of RD14 and U193 has 390 ohm resistance instead of jumper. When these components are touched by hand the player stops playing and cd starts spinning in opposite direction.
What would be possible cause. You all experts valuable suggestions and guidence will help me solve the problem.
Thanks in advance
Yash
Hi guys,
Recently, the right channel of my cd-63ki has started playing muffled, giving only low frequencies. I checked the circuit for faults and observed following:
pins 7 and 8 of Q105 (TCA 0372) shows 0 volts instead of 2.5
my ckt has c521 (10pf) in place of RD14 and U193 has 390 ohm resistance instead of jumper. When these components are touched by hand the player stops playing and cd starts spinning in opposite direction.
What would be possible cause. You all experts valuable suggestions and guidence will help me solve the problem.
Thanks in advance
Yash
Hi Ray
Nice website your amp is a very nice great craftsmen ship. I will be looking for the schematic for the balance power source.
Regards
Dave
Nice website your amp is a very nice great craftsmen ship. I will be looking for the schematic for the balance power source.
Regards
Dave
Had some trouble with a 63SE a few weeks ago, it was laid to rest and organs donated to science.... RIP. Much better luck with with the second, I now hear what you guys are talking about, music just pours out of this thing. So many thanks to all on this thread, I learned alot. One thing I did differently than mentioned in this thread was bypassing the trace / jumper path to the transformer and using 18ga direct from IEC to switch and transformer, seemed to be a bit cleaner. I also have had to go with a remote box for some power supplys I already had that would not fit in the 63. Not sure if this is better, it was just neccessary. I am also using alot of Burson components, "super" regs, clock, and one of their power supplys for I/V. I have ordered a pair of their HDAM modules(an FET output module probably very similar to schematics posted here), a pair of buffers. and another PS for the buffer. Will report on these when they get installed. I feel it is important to talk about the Burson stuff for US modders, we have very few economical choices for pre-built components( US Audiocom prices make me want to puke) and I don't hear to much about them. Very good bang for the buck IMO.
Re: RCh problem in cd63ki
Hi Yash,
That's a printing error in the schematic. Pin 8 of Q105 is tied to pin 1, creating a buffer. This drives the laserdiode. The voltage on these pins is either 0V or 5V, for STOP and PLAY mode. This section has nothing to do with your muffled sound problem. The other components (RD14 and U193) are feeding the clock signal from the DAC to the decoder. If you touch them, you disturb this high frequency signal, and this causes the player to malfuntion. This is normal, just like the different values.
You should take a good look at the components after the DAC outputs, around Q605/606. Did you modify anything in this area? Or is it a blown tweeter of one of your speakers 😀 ?
Regards,
Ray
yash said:
Hi Yash,
That's a printing error in the schematic. Pin 8 of Q105 is tied to pin 1, creating a buffer. This drives the laserdiode. The voltage on these pins is either 0V or 5V, for STOP and PLAY mode. This section has nothing to do with your muffled sound problem. The other components (RD14 and U193) are feeding the clock signal from the DAC to the decoder. If you touch them, you disturb this high frequency signal, and this causes the player to malfuntion. This is normal, just like the different values.
You should take a good look at the components after the DAC outputs, around Q605/606. Did you modify anything in this area? Or is it a blown tweeter of one of your speakers 😀 ?
Regards,
Ray
Gooch said:
Thanks Dave, i'm quite proud of it 😀.
Here's the schematic for the balanced source. It's basically a 1:1 tranny, with a parallel filter behind it. The center tap of the secondairies is grounded/earthed, so the output voltage is symmetrical around earth. And the tranny also acts as a filter.
There's a dutch company that sells something very similar, and I did some back-engineering on that. There's also an interesting article that one of the british guys posted (was it you Simon?) about balanced power. I've put it on my website.
Regards,
Ray.
Hi Ray,
Thanks for sharing your hard labor 🙂 Looks a thorough job!#
Some questions regarding the components:
1) What's F2?
2) C1 and C2 are 10uF? 400Vac?
3) Y2 and X2 are safety types? C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8
4) L2 is made of 2.5mm installation wire? 10 turns?
5) KBPC1001 bridge can be replaced by 15A diodes?
Regards, Jaap
Thanks for sharing your hard labor 🙂 Looks a thorough job!#
Some questions regarding the components:
1) What's F2?
2) C1 and C2 are 10uF? 400Vac?
3) Y2 and X2 are safety types? C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8
4) L2 is made of 2.5mm installation wire? 10 turns?
5) KBPC1001 bridge can be replaced by 15A diodes?
Regards, Jaap
I2S out
Please accept a question from a total ignorant.
I recently found a CD63 in a dumpster, somewhat bruised.
I removed the drawer mechanism and use a remote only ( control card broken ) and it works fine.
I have searched this thread unable to find how to make a I2S out, I would like to try it out as a transport for a 1543 dac.
A helping hand, schematic, anything , anyone ?
hk
Please accept a question from a total ignorant.
I recently found a CD63 in a dumpster, somewhat bruised.
I removed the drawer mechanism and use a remote only ( control card broken ) and it works fine.
I have searched this thread unable to find how to make a I2S out, I would like to try it out as a transport for a 1543 dac.
A helping hand, schematic, anything , anyone ?
hk
disco said:
Thanks Jaap. I always try to make things nice and neat 😎. It still needs some ty-raps though.
1. F2 is the thermal cutout that is built inside the tranny.
2. C1 and C2 are 10mF electrolytics (10mF = 10000uF), hence the "+" mark 😀. Voltage around 16...25V is fine. The diodes prevent any DC over them higher than 1.4V, so it could be lower theoretically. But they have to carry the AC current through them, so don't take them too small.
3. For the rest of the caps you should indeed use safety capacitors.
4. For L2 I used the 1077059 from Farnell.
5. Yes
Regards,
Ray.
Re: I2S out
Hi,
Try the "RM20 Non-oversampling DAC". It shows you how to connect a TDA1543. The three lines SCLK, WCLK and DATA are your I2S.
Ray.
superhkm said:
Hi,
Try the "RM20 Non-oversampling DAC". It shows you how to connect a TDA1543. The three lines SCLK, WCLK and DATA are your I2S.
Ray.
6h5c said:
Hi Ray,
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm having difficulty sourcing both the AD8610 and the OPA132U in Australia, so I may wait for the first one that comes up on EBay, or until I can find someone I know who has an account with RS Components.
Simon
Re: CD67SE muffled channel output
Everytime I take this apart and rebuild it something else goes wrong!
Now I have a problem with the laser, as soon as I switch the player on the small mechanism around the lens starts "hopping" with a loud clicking noise. I don't think it's a problem with the laser as I replaced it with an old one (old one was faulty, generally played ok but wouldn't play some cds/tracks but didn't have this hopping/clicking symptom) and had exactly the same problem.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
Regards
Pete
Chivvyp said:
Everytime I take this apart and rebuild it something else goes wrong!
Now I have a problem with the laser, as soon as I switch the player on the small mechanism around the lens starts "hopping" with a loud clicking noise. I don't think it's a problem with the laser as I replaced it with an old one (old one was faulty, generally played ok but wouldn't play some cds/tracks but didn't have this hopping/clicking symptom) and had exactly the same problem.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
Regards
Pete