gy21 said:Ok Thanks.
http://www.voti.nl/shop/catalog.html?PCB-1
I have access to these in the netherlands, will these also work?
Hi.
No, these are for a single smt chip to DIL. ( as per '741 )
Not suitable for replacing 2114's
Andy
Re: Re: AD8620 package
I ordered mine from these above (original browndogs) and only took 4 days to arrive. Pretty good I thought.
Brent
rowemeister said:
You need some browndog pcb's
http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24
Brent
I ordered mine from these above (original browndogs) and only took 4 days to arrive. Pretty good I thought.
Brent
poynton said:No, these are for a single smt chip to DIL. ( as per '741 )
Not suitable for replacing 2114's
Andy
That's not entirely correct Andy.....

gy21 said:I was looking into ordering some AD8620 ic's but I saw that they are only available in soic package and not in DIL package. How can I replace the 2114 with an AD8620 then?
Please correct me if i'm wrong
http://www.voti.nl/shop/catalog.html?PCB-1
I have access to these in the netherlands, will these also work?
gy21,
If you want to replace the 2114 with an AD8620, then these adapters will do fine, since the 8620 is also a dual opamp.
Regards,
Ray.
6h5c said:
Hi Simon,
The heater voltage is o.k. so that's one thing. But it should be at a DC offset of about -13V. That pin 3 voltage should be -18V with D852 shorted. Vftd is switched to the heater voltage by no less than seven transistors (Q852...854, QN01, 03, 04) and a 4V7 zener. This creates a power-on delay to make sure the heaters are up before Vftd and the display doesn't "fade-in" in an ugly manner. Maybe one of them has failed or has a dry joint? If you short the collector and emitter of Q852 there should be Vftd present on the heaters. Do you have Vftd present on pin 64 of the microcontroller?
Regards,
Ray.
Got it fully laid bare and next to a power socket for testing now.
As per Brent's advice the other day I've measured DC voltage at both sides of D853. I get -26.4 on the anode side and -24.2 on the cathode side. Will examine the schematic and see what to check next!
Erm, ok, I see where a problem is! Q852 pins measure as follows:
1: -24.8 v 2: -0v 3: -26.9 (pin numbers as looking from front of board). I don't honestly understand transistors so I'm not sure what this tells us. But I can say for sure this is where the voltage stops getting thru!
R852 and R853 measure 0vdc.
edit: there's continuity between the middle pin of the transistor (Q852) and the two 47ohm resistors that feed the display (R852 and R853). So either that transistor is broken, or I'm missing some crucial knowledge...
Where to next?
1: -24.8 v 2: -0v 3: -26.9 (pin numbers as looking from front of board). I don't honestly understand transistors so I'm not sure what this tells us. But I can say for sure this is where the voltage stops getting thru!
R852 and R853 measure 0vdc.
edit: there's continuity between the middle pin of the transistor (Q852) and the two 47ohm resistors that feed the display (R852 and R853). So either that transistor is broken, or I'm missing some crucial knowledge...

Where to next?

SimontY said:Got it fully laid bare and next to a power socket for testing now.
As per Brent's advice the other day I've measured DC voltage at both sides of D853. I get -26.4 on the anode side and -24.2 on the cathode side. Will examine the schematic and see what to check next!
Hi Simon,
I still think it is weird that you have more than -18V coming out of that regulator, that should not be possible. You still have D852 shorted?
Ray.
6h5c said:
Hi Simon,
I still think it is weird that you have more than -18V coming out of that regulator, that should not be possible. You still have D852 shorted?
Ray.
Evening Ray,
Yes it's weird isn't it? D852 is and will remain shorted: I removed it and replaced it with a wire link 🙂
Evening Simon!
Do you have a spare 7918 to test it? Or a 7915? A regulator should always deliver the voltage it is supposed to, so I think it is a suspect. Also check if that ground-pin is really shorted to 0V now, through the wire link. If the regulator's ground-pin is lifted, the output voltage will start floating and become more negative.
The middle pin of Q852 is the collector, and that's connected to R852/853. So the continuity you measure is supposed to be there, it's a PCB track 😀. Don't you have the board lay-out?
But it shouldn't be 0V there...
Ray.
Do you have a spare 7918 to test it? Or a 7915? A regulator should always deliver the voltage it is supposed to, so I think it is a suspect. Also check if that ground-pin is really shorted to 0V now, through the wire link. If the regulator's ground-pin is lifted, the output voltage will start floating and become more negative.
The middle pin of Q852 is the collector, and that's connected to R852/853. So the continuity you measure is supposed to be there, it's a PCB track 😀. Don't you have the board lay-out?
But it shouldn't be 0V there...
Ray.
6h5c said:Evening Simon!
Do you have a spare 7918 to test it? Or a 7915? A regulator should always deliver the voltage it is supposed to, so I think it is a suspect. Also check if that ground-pin is really shorted to 0V now, through the wire link. If the regulator's ground-pin is lifted, the output voltage will start floating and become more negative.
The middle pin of Q852 is the collector, and that's connected to R852/853. So the continuity you measure is supposed to be there, it's a PCB track 😀. Don't you have the board lay-out?
But it shouldn't be 0V there...
Ray.
Ray,
Annoyingly I don't seem to have any 7918 or 15 🙁 It does seem like the reg could be dodgy, but the voltage into it is off too I think, but you're surely right: it's either the ground of the reg or the reg is bust! Makes sense.
I do have the service manual, and I've printed it. But I'm yet to learn about transistors. I have no formal education in electronics. I can see it should be about -19v where those resistors are. 🙂
Thanks for your time and help.
Simon
6h5c said:
That's not entirely correct Andy.....
gy21,
If you want to replace the 2114 with an AD8620, then these adapters will do fine, since the 8620 is also a dual opamp.
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks Ray, I will try to order some of those, meanwhile I will insert an opa2134 to hear what that sounds like.
SimontY said:Ray,
Annoyingly I don't seem to have any 7918 or 15 🙁 It does seem like the reg could be dodgy, but the voltage into it is off too I think, but you're surely right: it's either the ground of the reg or the reg is bust! Makes sense.
Simon
You're welcome!
It indeed seems that the input voltage is not correct, but that is a raw supply, and it will vary with load current. So if the display doesn't get anything, it would make sense that it's higher (more negative) because there's no load. The regulator is able to handle upto -40V input, so that's o.k. The output voltage however, should be -18V +/-4% for this type of regulator. But....in the players here they are 79M18A, and the "A" version has an even tighter tolerance of only 2%. So 26.4V is way off 😀.
Regards,
Ray.
6h5c said:
You're welcome!
It indeed seems that the input voltage is not correct, but that is a raw supply, and it will vary with load current. So if the display doesn't get anything, it would make sense that it's higher (more negative) because there's no load. The regulator is able to handle upto -40V input, so that's o.k. The output voltage however, should be -18V +/-4% for this type of regulator. But....in the players here they are 79M18A, and the "A" version has an even tighter tolerance of only 2%. So 26.4V is way off 😀.
Regards,
Ray.
Morning Ray,
Actually this reg was once swapped because I accidentally broke it (shorted 2 pins). So it's not the original. It's actually L7918CV if that means anything useful.
The ground pin is definately connected to the wire jumper, which is in turn connected solidly to ground.
Simon
Simon
check the datasheet for pinout
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/L/7/9/1/L7918CV.shtml
if ok
then enough voltage in to sustain reg's voltage ( needs 2volt extra)
if ok and still too much voltage out from reg then the regs no good
if the voltage was lower(closer to 0) then maybe something drawing to much current, but you would notice the reg getting hot.
if too much voltage (over reg's rated out) and ground ok, then reg's no good.
allan
check the datasheet for pinout
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/L/7/9/1/L7918CV.shtml
if ok
then enough voltage in to sustain reg's voltage ( needs 2volt extra)
if ok and still too much voltage out from reg then the regs no good
if the voltage was lower(closer to 0) then maybe something drawing to much current, but you would notice the reg getting hot.
if too much voltage (over reg's rated out) and ground ok, then reg's no good.
allan
Hi Allan,
The datasheet says it can take up to -35 input. And the connections are as expected.
Looks like it's broken.
But why doesn't the voltage get through that transistor? Would a higher voltage break it?
Cheers
Simon
The datasheet says it can take up to -35 input. And the connections are as expected.
Looks like it's broken.
But why doesn't the voltage get through that transistor? Would a higher voltage break it?
Cheers
Simon
SimontY said:Hi Allan,
The datasheet says it can take up to -35 input. And the connections are as expected.
Looks like it's broken.
But why doesn't the voltage get through that transistor? Would a higher voltage break it?
Cheers
Simon
We need to know what voltages you have either side of D853,R854 and R852/R853
Brent
rowemeister said:Actually.... use this sch and over type the voltages on as many points as possible and post it back on here. That should get your problem sorted quicker 😉
been looking for the schematic thanks andy.
Q851 -18v reg lower to -24v with zener. why?
why not just use -24v reg
allan
ps my schematic is around here somewhere

awpagan said:
been looking for the schematic thanks andy.
Q851 -18v reg lower to -24v with zener. why?
why not just use -24v reg
allan
ps my schematic is around here somewhere![]()
Well Geoff
I presume it gives more scope for adjustment by using different zener values in different players, zener diodes are cheaper than regs so when you sell millions of units you save alot of money.

Brent
rowemeister said:
Well Geoff
I presume it gives more scope for adjustment by using different zener values in different players, zener diodes are cheaper than regs so when you sell millions of units you save alot of money.![]()
Brent
or maybe they had a lot -18v reg's sitting around
or the -24v reg wasn't available yet
or someone did an ooops😱 (this one i like😀)
allan
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