Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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6h5c

6h5c

Member
Joined 2004
raylectronics.nl/index_en.html
SimontY said:
The -19.5v isn't right. I'm confused and I don't understand this complex psu arrangement.

The problem is around the 7918 regulator (Q851), it measures:
pin1 - 0
pin2 - -36
pin3 - -26

I don't think this is at all correct, lol!
Click to expand...

Hi Simon,

The heater voltage is o.k. so that's one thing. But it should be at a DC offset of about -13V. That pin 3 voltage should be -18V with D852 shorted. Vftd is switched to the heater voltage by no less than seven transistors (Q852...854, QN01, 03, 04) and a 4V7 zener. This creates a power-on delay to make sure the heaters are up before Vftd and the display doesn't "fade-in" in an ugly manner. Maybe one of them has failed or has a dry joint? If you short the collector and emitter of Q852 there should be Vftd present on the heaters. Do you have Vftd present on pin 64 of the microcontroller?

Regards,

Ray.
 
G

gy21

Member
Joined 2006
my.hifi.nl/index.php?user=1651
Hello, this is my firts post here. I have been reading this thread for a while now and yesterday evening I modded my cd67se.

I removed the muting transistor and the dc blocking caps in the output stage. And damped the whole chasis.

When I turned the player on I heard things in my music collection I never heard before, really nice bass.

I will continu to mod my player with new opamps bypass hdam buffer and then I will see what's next.

Any way, thanks for sharing information on this.
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
gy21 said:
Hello, this is my firts post here. I have been reading this thread for a while now and yesterday evening I modded my cd67se.

I removed the muting transistor and the dc blocking caps in the output stage. And damped the whole chasis.

When I turned the player on I heard things in my music collection I never heard before, really nice bass.

I will continu to mod my player with new opamps bypass hdam buffer and then I will see what's next.

Any way, thanks for sharing information on this.
Click to expand...

Glad to help mate, you are going to be very suprised by what this player can do.
 
P

philpoole

Member
Joined 2004
I was searching the threat for "8620" but I found no hits ?

Have any of you tried the AD8620 (and not written 'bout it). If so, how will you describe it?

Just wondering, before I order a pair of premounted browndogs.

/avr300
Click to expand...
Hi,
Not sure if its too relevant, but I did upgrade a friends CD63 last year and as an experiment, I put in AD OP249 (SR 22v/uS GBP 4.7Mhz SetT 0.9uS). These were deliberately chosen as they were as close to spec as my BB2107 opamps as I could find, and they we're a lot cheaper (about £3 versus £15).

If I recall, I found the AD chips to be a bit more 'in your face' than my Burr Browns, which were far more laid back. They we're just as interesting, but had a very different sound.

It did reinforce for me that the AD chips tend to be more agressive BB equivalents. Both are maybe an acquired taste.



Still haven't had a chance to fix my CD63. Its been a week of work on the house and stuff. Ho hum. Really frustrated, because I want to get it fixed and then fit the bipolar output. So want to hear what it sounds like.

Cheers,
Phil
 
SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
rowemeister said:
Simon just in case you were not aware, the pins are different on a negative regulator to on a positive one.

i.e 7805 = pin 1 - i/p pin 2 - gnd pin 3 - o/p
7905 = pin 1 - gnd pin 2 - i/p pin 3 - o/p

Brent
Click to expand...

Cheers man, I noticed this last night, just after I posted, hehe. My voltages are only slightly out then actually. Just a bit high on the output. I wonder if I somehow broke the regulator. But even so, it doesn't explain the pretty much zero DC voltage on the display power rail. My problem has been understanding the circuit to be honest. I did look at those transistor bits, and wonder if there's a problem there. I'll check all those joints carefully as my next task.

Transformer seems the most ovbious thing but all the leads seem to be soldered to something!!

For everyone's benefit is there some simple way of knowing which colour wire is which winding? Or is the only way to count them from one end to the other?
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
SimontY said:


Cheers man, I noticed this last night, just after I posted, hehe. My voltages are only slightly out then actually. Just a bit high on the output. I wonder if I somehow broke the regulator. But even so, it doesn't explain the pretty much zero DC voltage on the display power rail. My problem has been understanding the circuit to be honest. I did look at those transistor bits, and wonder if there's a problem there. I'll check all those joints carefully as my next task.

Transformer seems the most ovbious thing but all the leads seem to be soldered to something!!

For everyone's benefit is there some simple way of knowing which colour wire is which winding? Or is the only way to count them from one end to the other?
Click to expand...

I know :D

On diagram from top to bottom.

Green _ 13.9V to C854
Pink _ 17.6V to D801
Purple _ 17.6V to D804
Blue _ 9.6V to D811 via fuse
Yellow _ Center tap to Gnd
Red _ 9.6V to D814 via fuse
Orange and Brown _ 3.6V for heater voltage

;)
 
avr300

avr300

Member
Joined 2005
philpoole said:

Hi,
Not sure if its too relevant, but I did upgrade a friends CD63 last year and as an experiment, I put in AD OP249 (SR 22v/uS GBP 4.7Mhz SetT 0.9uS). These were deliberately chosen as they were as close to spec as my BB2107 opamps as I could find, and they we're a lot cheaper (about £3 versus £15).

If I recall, I found the AD chips to be a bit more 'in your face' than my Burr Browns, which were far more laid back. They we're just as interesting, but had a very different sound.

It did reinforce for me that the AD chips tend to be more agressive BB equivalents. Both are maybe an acquired taste.

Cheers,
Phil
Click to expand...

Well I'll just buy a pair and let you know. Lots of review says ".... bla bla bla but AD8620 beats them all..."
 
poynton

poynton

Member
Joined 2005
Analog Devices AD8610/AD8620

Cost, single: $8.00 (AD8610) Vmin, 0.5V into 33 Ù: 5.7V
Cost, dual: $13.33 (AD8620) Vmin, 2.0V into 330 Ù: 7.6V

This is quite possibly the best chip for battery-powered amps, period. Its voltage tolerance is among the lowest of all the chips I mention here, it has good output current abililty, it has among the lowest supply current of any chip reviewed here, and above all it sounds good.

What does it sound like? Well, take the AD823, and remove some of the aggressive harshness. Add a bit of detail and smoothness from the AD843. That's the 8610. It's not a smooth chip, just not harsh. It's not the most detailed chip, but not heavily veiled, either.

This chip is rare in that it is only rated for a 26V supply. (Absolute maximum is 27.3V.) Another oddity is that it is only available in SOIC versions, so you need to mount it on a Brown Dog adapter to use it in amps that use DIP chips.

Bottom line: This is a contender for my favorite chip of all time, especially in battery-powered amps. When paired with an aggressive or very revealing system, this chip can be unpleasant. This chip is at its best complementing a smooth, laid-back system.


Found this review :- http://tangentsoft.net/audio/opamps.html

Personnally, I like the AD826AN

Andy
 
poynton

poynton

Member
Joined 2005
Re: AD8620 package

Originally posted by gy21
I was looking into ordering some AD8620 ic's but I saw that they are only available in soic package and not in DIL package.
How can I replace the 2114 with an AD8620 then?

Please correct me if i'm wrong


Originally posted by poynton
Another oddity is that it is only available in SOIC versions, so you need to mount it on a Brown Dog adapter to use it in amps that use DIP chips.
Click to expand...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9708224814&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MESE:IT&rd=1
 
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