That has everything to do with the large capacitive load of the 100uF caps. If the impedance at the output gets too low (= large cap) the regulating loop looses track. You can read all about it here and here. Try and load them with a 470 ohm resistor. I bet they will give 5.0V as well then.The 4 with Silmics put out 5.2v and the 4 I built last night with solid tantalum all put out a solid 5.02v.
Interesting, huh? I didn't have to change the resistor value or swap in the red LED or anything, and they're bang on.
Regards,
Ray
Any reason for choosing carbon and not metal film? I've used the metal film ones previously but I've no idea how they compare. Did you go for half watt?
I use metal film at the moment and have found them to be very good but I fancied trying these. I heard them around a HA in a cutomers cdp and thought they sounded very natural. 1/4 watt.
Brent
Fully populated the pcb with some of the parts from my old DOS. I had to trim the end of the pcb to fit in my player due to the RCA sockets and SPower regs on the dac analogue.
Just need to install it which will likely be Monday.
Brent
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just need to install it which will likely be Monday.
Brent
Cheers Ray & Ben.
They are the 10mH inductors. Good quality ones from Jabdog.
I've decided to stay a little later at work and install it 😀
Brent
They are the 10mH inductors. Good quality ones from Jabdog.
I've decided to stay a little later at work and install it 😀
Brent
It's in. Running now 😉
Can't say what diffs there are yet as the player takes ages to settle and I need it on my home system. If there is one thing that maybe different from cold is I think the bass is a little tighter.
Time will tell
Brent
Can't say what diffs there are yet as the player takes ages to settle and I need it on my home system. If there is one thing that maybe different from cold is I think the bass is a little tighter.
Time will tell
Brent
That was quick! To soon to tell indeed, but it's always nice to see/hear everything is running fine. I hope you enjoy it!
Ray
Ray
Things always run properly Ray you should know that 😉
I'm about to leave work but what I can say there is no step backwards at all in sound quality which to be honest I didn't expect.
It will have plenty of running in tonight and over the weekend
Brent
I'm about to leave work but what I can say there is no step backwards at all in sound quality which to be honest I didn't expect.
It will have plenty of running in tonight and over the weekend
Brent
Ray,
can you give me a simple schematic to make a 5v reg from lm317 plz rtied martin clarks one mm didnt do it.
alan thx
can you give me a simple schematic to make a 5v reg from lm317 plz rtied martin clarks one mm didnt do it.
alan thx
I'm new to the forum. Apologies if this is an inappropriate jump onto the thread but at 1742 pages this seemed to be the font of all knowledge on the Marantz CD63. I have acquired a CD63 Mk 2 signature edition. In the box, with the remote, excellent condition but stone dead, no lights no nothing. I downloaded a basic service manual, took the back off and established that power is getting through as far as the low voltage side of the transformer. As far as I can work out from the manual (which I struggle to read with my eyesight!), everything is controlled by the MN***** chip so if nothing is working this is probably fried and it's not worth me going any further.
Is this correct or is there any other obvious diagnosis I could do to try and reclaim this unit?
If not, does anyone need units like this for parts?
Is this correct or is there any other obvious diagnosis I could do to try and reclaim this unit?
If not, does anyone need units like this for parts?
No, not a stupid question, as you have no idea as to my level of understanding of electronics, but yes, I checked those too.
dead ki
no output no work??
cheers alan🙂
With the lid off facia facing you towards the back nr the psu you will see a black 3 legged transistor with an aluminium heatsink ( 7805 printed on it) leg to the left is 12v in centre leg is ground and outer right will be 5v check the volts input 12v and 5v output with a digital voltmeterNo, not a stupid question, as you have no idea as to my level of understanding of electronics, but yes, I checked those too.
no output no work??
cheers alan🙂
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You're the man!
Q811 on the circuit diagram - NJM7805FA - googling this tells me it is a "5V voltage regulator IC", also that it is "almost indestructible"!
Anyhow, LH voltage is 12.3V and RH voltage is 0.3V. So what does that tell us?
Q811 on the circuit diagram - NJM7805FA - googling this tells me it is a "5V voltage regulator IC", also that it is "almost indestructible"!
Anyhow, LH voltage is 12.3V and RH voltage is 0.3V. So what does that tell us?
So the 7805 is blown. However if you have no display I would think there are some other things that have blown as well, as far as I'm aware the display is powered seperately from the +5v circuit..
Regards
Pete
Regards
Pete
re blown reg
replace the 7805 get them from maplins about a £1 each see what you get most things on a 63 run 5v should give you a starting point anyway
sort the display out later just get it running.
its not teminal all good fun andrew.
cheers alan😀
Hi,You're the man!
Q811 on the circuit diagram - NJM7805FA - googling this tells me it is a "5V voltage regulator IC", also that it is "almost indestructible"!
Anyhow, LH voltage is 12.3V and RH voltage is 0.3V. So what does that tell us?
replace the 7805 get them from maplins about a £1 each see what you get most things on a 63 run 5v should give you a starting point anyway
sort the display out later just get it running.
its not teminal all good fun andrew.
cheers alan😀
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