Oh Shep, what a cruel world 😱
Steve, your bass has probably just tightened up, I'd be surprised if it's really been lost. If your speakers are bass-shy (and you told me they're sealed Tannoys, right? So quite possibly a bit light) you'd probably favour a fatter bass, even if it's less accurate. What does the new PSU supply?
Simon
Steve, your bass has probably just tightened up, I'd be surprised if it's really been lost. If your speakers are bass-shy (and you told me they're sealed Tannoys, right? So quite possibly a bit light) you'd probably favour a fatter bass, even if it's less accurate. What does the new PSU supply?
Simon
Hi simon yes im useing tanoys but i have ported them in the back. It deffinatly as lost bass and dynamics but sounds smoother
CFP
Hope to get my output stage with the complementary feedback pair back in the player soon! One step forward, one back...
Cut 4 traces under each 6.2K resistors, added a 91R to the 820R to get to right value on top of the PCB. I wish I have the new PCB but that should work as good, even if does not look that good. And yes, how much I wish I did not try to change the Styroflex sheild's way... stupid!
Hope to get my output stage with the complementary feedback pair back in the player soon! One step forward, one back...
Cut 4 traces under each 6.2K resistors, added a 91R to the 820R to get to right value on top of the PCB. I wish I have the new PCB but that should work as good, even if does not look that good. And yes, how much I wish I did not try to change the Styroflex sheild's way... stupid!
Attachments
You work always amazes me Matthieu.
What is your iron/solder preferences ?
I am looking forward for your listening impressions 🙂
What is your iron/solder preferences ?
I am looking forward for your listening impressions 🙂
Yes? Even my skills in styroflex destroying while trying to turn them? 😉 I need to wait for my new parts from Pcx to come for impressions, sadly. Stupid me.
As for solder/iron I have no idea, I just use what I have in hands! I have a load of wintage pb/sn to melt here. I just feel the need of flux remover, I don't like these dirty spots, they don't help in checking things.
As I said to Ray, if it's 10% the price but 80% the sound then it's for me. Not more. Or later when I'm rich.
As for solder/iron I have no idea, I just use what I have in hands! I have a load of wintage pb/sn to melt here. I just feel the need of flux remover, I don't like these dirty spots, they don't help in checking things.
As I said to Ray, if it's 10% the price but 80% the sound then it's for me. Not more. Or later when I'm rich.
I have good results with this Kontakt PCC Kontakt Chemie hivatalos viszonteladó - Auszer Kft. - Kontakt PCC printed circuit board cleaner
Hi, I put in the 8v regulators on the drivers ic's. The bass is much better now, but for the rest it sounds very flat and lifeless. There's less detail and I have the impression that some instruments in the music are almost gone. Is that normal or did I do something wrong? Didn't install the new caps yet (they are still in order).
I noticed some difference in the pictures of the pcb foto's on this forum and mine. I checked the schematics on:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1578.html#post2474211 (see attachment also)
It seems that I connected it accordingly (output's to the ic's). The picture shows how I connected it. I removed r127/128/164 btw.
Did I install them the right way?
I noticed some difference in the pictures of the pcb foto's on this forum and mine. I checked the schematics on:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1578.html#post2474211 (see attachment also)
It seems that I connected it accordingly (output's to the ic's). The picture shows how I connected it. I removed r127/128/164 btw.
Did I install them the right way?
Attachments
Well the new regs improve many areas but yes, it's quite normal for it to still sound grey and lifeless until you've sorted clocking, the output section and put on some nice fresh power supply caps for smoothing.
As for my xp, I know that some mods remove some flaws, they don't get the player "better". At some point it sounds "less" because it has lost some "false". Then you need, I do mean need, to do some other mods to bring "true". Half way is not an option.
Don't know if I'm clear but at least for me.
As for bass the CD-63 SE wich I've said to do more bass it's loosy bass, my CD-43 sounds way better, the CD-63 SE is very unpleasant to listen to. A bass not low and too much present and with no form (bass guitars has no string sound, no wood nothing, almost like computer tone) the highs not very in the music, a bit like some loudness of paste packs of frequencies.
I've played Bach's organ pieces, unlistenable with the CD-63. My styroflex, quick!
Don't know if I'm clear but at least for me.
As for bass the CD-63 SE wich I've said to do more bass it's loosy bass, my CD-43 sounds way better, the CD-63 SE is very unpleasant to listen to. A bass not low and too much present and with no form (bass guitars has no string sound, no wood nothing, almost like computer tone) the highs not very in the music, a bit like some loudness of paste packs of frequencies.
I've played Bach's organ pieces, unlistenable with the CD-63. My styroflex, quick!
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I agree... It took me some time and more than 19 mods to get the my CDP upright !
Sometimes I got extreme detail enhancements but loosing weight and sometimes the reverse. It is not simple but in the end it really is quite worth the effort.
I really enjoyed every step and got total support from the experts in this thread. ( One of the best in that respect 🙂)
So much to do and so little time 😀
Ricardo
Sometimes I got extreme detail enhancements but loosing weight and sometimes the reverse. It is not simple but in the end it really is quite worth the effort.
I really enjoyed every step and got total support from the experts in this thread. ( One of the best in that respect 🙂)
So much to do and so little time 😀
Ricardo
Hi Chaps, I need some advice building my Kwak Clock 7 for my 67OSE, got all my parts but have a slight issue with one.
C16 and C17 in the KC7 circuit are 1uf polypropylene, the ones I ordered from Farnell (143-8471) are audio grade but HUGE.
Could you guys recomend another part or should I just use the ones I have.
Thanks in advance
Tom
C16 and C17 in the KC7 circuit are 1uf polypropylene, the ones I ordered from Farnell (143-8471) are audio grade but HUGE.
Could you guys recomend another part or should I just use the ones I have.
Thanks in advance
Tom
Wima MKS2? They are tiny.
I have a VAM12 and it seems the magnet on spindle motor is weak, at least far weaker than my CDM12's one. Is that normal?
I have a VAM12 and it seems the magnet on spindle motor is weak, at least far weaker than my CDM12's one. Is that normal?
The disc clamp is different for the VAM. You are using a cdm disc clamp and they don't match up perfectly. Other than a slight slipping noise when it first starts up you should be ok.
Or do what I do and swap the laser over into a csm traverse so you keep the better older motors
Brent
Or do what I do and swap the laser over into a csm traverse so you keep the better older motors
Brent
Hi Brent,
I like your idea. Even the tracking motor is smaller :'( And yes there is that wizzzz noise at first stop.
The 2 pins holding the sliding rod then side lift?
I like your idea. Even the tracking motor is smaller :'( And yes there is that wizzzz noise at first stop.
The 2 pins holding the sliding rod then side lift?
I have just listed a KI chassis brace on ebay I thought some of you guys might be interested. 😉
Marantz CD63 KI Signature Chassis Brace | eBay UK
Marantz CD63 KI Signature Chassis Brace | eBay UK
CD57 power supply mod not successful ?!
I need a little help here.
For implementing a DOS I bought a CD57 and have started by modifying the power supply (diodes, large and small capacitors, regs) according to Ray`s list for the CD57. When switching on the Cd does not spin, dipslay is off but Q801 / LM317T runs very hot in seconds. I immediately switched off.
Anyone any idea what is wrong?
Thanks in advance.
I need a little help here.
For implementing a DOS I bought a CD57 and have started by modifying the power supply (diodes, large and small capacitors, regs) according to Ray`s list for the CD57. When switching on the Cd does not spin, dipslay is off but Q801 / LM317T runs very hot in seconds. I immediately switched off.
Anyone any idea what is wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Have you built a ray reg using a 317 or just replaced a 7805 or 7812 with a 317? They are not compatible. The 317 is an adjustable reg that needs additional components to work a the required voltage where as 7805 is a fixed 5v reg and a 7812 is fixed 12v reg. You need to provide more info!
