Hi,
I somehow missed the previous few posts the past couple days.
The picture of the built module is a pic I sent Ray some time ago. We found that I had a minor error on the board. So I revised the board a bit and had them made again.
The picture of the above board is the revised board, and is the one people have received from me.
The picture of the fully built module that I posted a page or two ago, is made on the board in the pic above.
Sorry for any confusion.
Steve
I somehow missed the previous few posts the past couple days.
The picture of the built module is a pic I sent Ray some time ago. We found that I had a minor error on the board. So I revised the board a bit and had them made again.
The picture of the above board is the revised board, and is the one people have received from me.
The picture of the fully built module that I posted a page or two ago, is made on the board in the pic above.
Sorry for any confusion.
Steve
Hi. I have a CD53 and I haven't modded before. Could anyone tell me some simple mods to improve the muddy bass? I guess I will limit myself to simply replacing parts for now.
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PSU capacitors, Voltage regulator, bypass capacitor.
http://www.raylectronics.nl/frame_it_en.html?http://www.raylectronics.nl/cd63_mods_en.html
http://www.raylectronics.nl/frame_it_en.html?http://www.raylectronics.nl/cd63_mods_en.html
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Thanks, that looks like a great source 🙂
I am now removing the muting circuit, but I've managed to cut the wrong transistor. It's transistor QN03 (2SC1740S, 50V-0.15A). So now I have to get a new one. Can I replace it with any 50V-0.15A transistor?
I'm also a little confused by this sentence (about removing the muting circuit): "Remove U207, U211 and U262 (and cut trace)". Is it enough to just remove these jumpers or do I have to do something else? I'm not sure what's meant with "(and cut trace)".
I am now removing the muting circuit, but I've managed to cut the wrong transistor. It's transistor QN03 (2SC1740S, 50V-0.15A). So now I have to get a new one. Can I replace it with any 50V-0.15A transistor?
I'm also a little confused by this sentence (about removing the muting circuit): "Remove U207, U211 and U262 (and cut trace)". Is it enough to just remove these jumpers or do I have to do something else? I'm not sure what's meant with "(and cut trace)".
What's the matter you start with mute? First, study a little the tracks, blocks, function. Start with PSU, it's more simple at first!
Take a look on page 10 of 43/53/63 SM, and then pag. 13.
For transistor replacement see pag. 19 s.m. at Qn1. And google it.
Take a look on page 10 of 43/53/63 SM, and then pag. 13.
For transistor replacement see pag. 19 s.m. at Qn1. And google it.
Thank you 🙂 It's been recommended for beginners to start with removing the muting circuit. I already noticed the sound is less muddy. Now I accidentally cut out QN03 while I meant to cut QN25. It's a stupid beginners mistake.
As for the power supply, I'll start looking into it. Thanks!
As for the power supply, I'll start looking into it. Thanks!
PSU tracks lead you to different function. Follow track and jumper. Study.
And don't "cut" anything. Desolder with care and keep apart (hold by)
And don't "cut" anything. Desolder with care and keep apart (hold by)
Thanks again. I would already like to order the necessary parts for the PSU since it takes about a week to arrive. I will start studying the schematic in the meanwhile. The WIMA caps though...I can't find what voltage they should be.
Beware that cutting parts legs without desoldering might stress the pcb underside.
This pcb is very very fragile.
Start with PSU... particularly the big EL caps and the rectifying diodes. You will be amazed by these small changes and you will also gain some practice.
Good luck 🙂
This pcb is very very fragile.
Start with PSU... particularly the big EL caps and the rectifying diodes. You will be amazed by these small changes and you will also gain some practice.
Good luck 🙂
Good to know. I've practiced desoldering with quite some Velleman kits I made and destroyed most of the PCB's. Now I had to desolder the legs of the part I accidentally removed and it took no effort at all.
And that is how I discovered lead-free solder is awful. I will buy good solder before I do anything now.
I still have some basic questions I haven't found an answer too:
1) Which voltage should the WIMA capacitors for the PSU be?
2) Decoupling capacitors confuse me a lot. I have no idea where the legs should be connected to (for example when adding a 100n X7R to a capacitor).
That's all for now. I've already learned a lot and I'm intrigued by these electronics.
And that is how I discovered lead-free solder is awful. I will buy good solder before I do anything now.
I still have some basic questions I haven't found an answer too:
1) Which voltage should the WIMA capacitors for the PSU be?
2) Decoupling capacitors confuse me a lot. I have no idea where the legs should be connected to (for example when adding a 100n X7R to a capacitor).
That's all for now. I've already learned a lot and I'm intrigued by these electronics.
hi all...
I've a cd-63mkii with a problem can't read cds , tried to change the pick-up (chg to VAM) by myself but still doesnt work at all ( no lens tracking or disc spinning) . then I switch back to original ones (CDM12), it now hv spinning for few seconds and lens focusing (unsure if the laser was light or not), BUT still "no disc" display.... could someone help... thanks.
I've a cd-63mkii with a problem can't read cds , tried to change the pick-up (chg to VAM) by myself but still doesnt work at all ( no lens tracking or disc spinning) . then I switch back to original ones (CDM12), it now hv spinning for few seconds and lens focusing (unsure if the laser was light or not), BUT still "no disc" display.... could someone help... thanks.
A common issue with a lot of 'older' cd players (not just older but as players get older in general)
The switch that senses the drawer is shut sometimes needs cleaning/replacing.
If the player doesn't think the drawer is shut it won't spin the disc.
Tom
The switch that senses the drawer is shut sometimes needs cleaning/replacing.
If the player doesn't think the drawer is shut it won't spin the disc.
Tom
Wima e X7R are not polarized caps, so insertion is error-fre.
Wima voltage value: take a look again to Service Manual!!
It's mandatory!
Btw 63 volts could be right.
Wima voltage value: take a look again to Service Manual!!
It's mandatory!
Btw 63 volts could be right.
Coupling caps!
Hi guys!
how many CD63 fried since last time I've shown? 😉
Well, as in input caps for my Tripath new adventures, I wonder where you all ended with DOS's output caps, what is you final setup.
Voilà!
Matthieu
Hi guys!
how many CD63 fried since last time I've shown? 😉
Well, as in input caps for my Tripath new adventures, I wonder where you all ended with DOS's output caps, what is you final setup.
Voilà!
Matthieu
Hi Matthieu!
Nothing fried over here, I've just been busy with other technical stuff, like designing a small lasershow for my brother's band 😎.
I still have the Black Gate N-type 100u/16V in my DOS, and i'm still very happy with it. Maybe a large film cap will perform even better, but those cost a fortune at 100uF... I don't want to make it much smaller, maybe 47 or 22u minimum, but still $$$.
Regards,
Ray
Nothing fried over here, I've just been busy with other technical stuff, like designing a small lasershow for my brother's band 😎.
I still have the Black Gate N-type 100u/16V in my DOS, and i'm still very happy with it. Maybe a large film cap will perform even better, but those cost a fortune at 100uF... I don't want to make it much smaller, maybe 47 or 22u minimum, but still $$$.
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray,
What's the advantage of that size of cap, I always thought anything around and above 5u kept the bass response respectable.
Have I misunderstood something (again!)?
Regards
Pete
Hi Ray & Pete,
and yes Pete, I was talking of DC blocking caps 😉 IIRC 3.3µF is enough, 4.7 for headroom.
and yes Pete, I was talking of DC blocking caps 😉 IIRC 3.3µF is enough, 4.7 for headroom.
Does anyone know what transistor QN03 does? I accidentally cut it out last week (I've stopped doing that, desoldering now). It still works fine without the transistor though. I wonder if I'll have to replace it at all.
Hi guys,
That's correct, 3u3 is the theoretical minimum for a cut-off frequency of 5Hz at 10kohm load. If your load is 20kohms, a 1u8 is the minimum, and so on. But then you are already in the transition zone of the high-pass filter this cap makes with the load. Attenuation of the signal is 3dB, and phase shift is 45 degrees. To move out of that zone, a bigger cap is needed.
Ray
QN03 is also part of the muting circuit. It mutes the display when you turn the power off. Without it, you will notice the display will fade away as the capacitors in the power supply discharge. This looks kinda cheap, so Marantz blanks the display as soon as the power is gone.
You can replace it with any generic NPN if you want to restore the function. Mind the pinning though.
Ray