The BG's will run at 15v, I have done this myself. However it is very close to the limit and not really advisable. Also, the closer you run a cap to its limit, the shorter its lifespan.
Lee.
edit: how's the head Simon?
Lee.
edit: how's the head Simon?
RCruz said:I would like to only change the sregs... I am using 220BG16v on the opamps... is it enough for +-15v ?
Yeh, go with +-15v in that case. The BGs will be happy at that voltage as they're high quality parts.
Simon
Thomo said:The BG's will run at 15v, I have done this myself. However it is very close to the limit and not really advisable. Also, the closer you run a cap to its limit, the shorter its lifespan.
To change or not to change.... that is the question.SimontY said:
Yeh, go with +-15v in that case. The BGs will be happy at that voltage as they're high quality parts.
I finally managed to mount my output caps to the cd chassis
Sorry for the poor quality
And please ignore all the wires, they will be tidied up when I get round to installing the additional psu's.
Lee.

Sorry for the poor quality
And please ignore all the wires, they will be tidied up when I get round to installing the additional psu's.
Lee.
Hi guys!
I'll get for free a lovely setup, seems a bit faulty but looks gorgeous and very promising.
Have any feedback on this stuff, mainly CDP?
It's a Aura CD-50 (seems to be a Philips CD600 clone) and an Aura VA-100.
Matthieu
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156419_Image-2.png
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156298_Image-1.png
I'll get for free a lovely setup, seems a bit faulty but looks gorgeous and very promising.
Have any feedback on this stuff, mainly CDP?
It's a Aura CD-50 (seems to be a Philips CD600 clone) and an Aura VA-100.
Matthieu
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156419_Image-2.png
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156298_Image-1.png
Looking good now....Thomo said:I finally managed to mount my output caps to the cd chassis![]()
Sorry for the poor quality
And please ignore all the wires, they will be tidied up when I get round to installing the additional psu's.
My clock setup looks like a power plant..😀
Attachments
I heard of these amps before.Malefoda said:Hi guys!
I'll get for free a lovely setup, seems a bit faulty but looks gorgeous and very promising.
Have any feedback on this stuff, mainly CDP?
It's a Aura CD-50 (seems to be a Philips CD600 clone) and an Aura VA-100.
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156419_Image-2.png
http://www.hebergementimages.com/images/1214156298_Image-1.png
Aura was the Electronic subdivision of Bowers & Wilkins Loudspeakers (B&W UK) before being discontinued in 1997, they were located in the same town as B&W (Worthing-UK).
Now it has been bought by a Japanese guy who keeps doing good stuff:
http://www.auradesign.co.jp/eng/products/index.html
So anyone looking for a parts player? I have my modded player and all modded parts go with it as well as removed parts and original remote. Transport works fine. Unit was working great now it plays for a bit and then the audio slowly fades. If I turn it off and on, it does the same thing but takes less time ... I'm assuming heat related.
I have too much audio equipment laying around to bother fixing it, so have at it!
Mods here: http://www.craigtone.com/audio/CD63/
Make me an offer!
I have too much audio equipment laying around to bother fixing it, so have at it!
Mods here: http://www.craigtone.com/audio/CD63/
Make me an offer!
Ray,
I'm now ready to get going with your discrete output stage as my 8260 is the same as your 8400.
I have a question about the power connection. Your design shows +-15v followed by a 12v regulator. Where are you getting 15v? Power on the board is 12v already. Why the extra caps and regulator?
Steve
I'm now ready to get going with your discrete output stage as my 8260 is the same as your 8400.
I have a question about the power connection. Your design shows +-15v followed by a 12v regulator. Where are you getting 15v? Power on the board is 12v already. Why the extra caps and regulator?
Steve
Hi Steve,
I used on-board shunt regulators on the discrete output PCB because the regs are closest to the circuit that way. It's a single-ended design, so it's quite sensitive to PSU noise. I used the players' analog supply as pre-regulators to power the PCB. The output voltage was modified to around +/- 16V by changing R853 and 855 to 4k7.
I'm curious what you think of it, can you let me know how it sounds?
Regards,
Ray
I used on-board shunt regulators on the discrete output PCB because the regs are closest to the circuit that way. It's a single-ended design, so it's quite sensitive to PSU noise. I used the players' analog supply as pre-regulators to power the PCB. The output voltage was modified to around +/- 16V by changing R853 and 855 to 4k7.
I'm curious what you think of it, can you let me know how it sounds?
Regards,
Ray
Re: Super Hyper CD53
Looking good and excellent news on your improved audio 😉
Brent
RCruz said:Here is an overview of the setup.....![]()
The sound is really outstanding..... This player sings![]()
![]()
I just built a +15 sreg.... now the -15v is on the bench.
Looking good and excellent news on your improved audio 😉
Brent
6h5c said:Hi Steve,
I used on-board shunt regulators on the discrete output PCB because the regs are closest to the circuit that way. It's a single-ended design, so it's quite sensitive to PSU noise. I used the players' analog supply as pre-regulators to power the PCB. The output voltage was modified to around +/- 16V by changing R853 and 855 to 4k7.
I'm curious what you think of it, can you let me know how it sounds?
Regards,
Ray
Steve,
I haven't even ordered parts yet, but will soon do so. I'll be sure to let you know how it all goes when it gets going.
Steve
Hello Ray,
I expect to modify my CD65II with the help of what you did with this player shown in your usefull website.
Just a few questions:
-which opamp do you think gives best results for money spent?
-Do you have a pcb layout document that clearly points each component (front and back)? Many of them are not printed on the PCB, resulting in a boring schematic searching task.
Thanks a lot for all that very good stuff over here!!
Regards,
Eric.
I expect to modify my CD65II with the help of what you did with this player shown in your usefull website.
Just a few questions:
-which opamp do you think gives best results for money spent?
-Do you have a pcb layout document that clearly points each component (front and back)? Many of them are not printed on the PCB, resulting in a boring schematic searching task.
Thanks a lot for all that very good stuff over here!!
Regards,
Eric.
If you don't mind me to reply for what I've tested the LM4562 with Black Gates caps does it the best to my ears.
Hi Eric,
I scanned the manual myself, cause I have it in old-fashioned paper. I can scan the PCB for you, but you have to be patient, as I don't have much time at the moment. Just PM me as a reminder and i'll send you a new PDF.
My favorite opamp-combo still are the AD8610 and AD8510 on a BD adapter 🙂
Ray
I scanned the manual myself, cause I have it in old-fashioned paper. I can scan the PCB for you, but you have to be patient, as I don't have much time at the moment. Just PM me as a reminder and i'll send you a new PDF.
My favorite opamp-combo still are the AD8610 and AD8510 on a BD adapter 🙂
Ray
Thanks!
I guess I will have to perform some tests anyway, regardless of what it costs
I will upgrade the player to Ray's specs (if he's able to help me 😀 ), except for the opamps at first. Then I'll try different amps.
Regards,
Eric.
I guess I will have to perform some tests anyway, regardless of what it costs

I will upgrade the player to Ray's specs (if he's able to help me 😀 ), except for the opamps at first. Then I'll try different amps.
Regards,
Eric.
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