You can use one external tx but the gains are better using two as you are isolating the circuits.
You can also run into ground loop problems with external power supplies, I would always recommend using an internal tx
Brent
You can also run into ground loop problems with external power supplies, I would always recommend using an internal tx
Brent
rowemeister said:You can also run into ground loop problems with external power supplies, I would always recommend using an internal tx
Oh I can second that. Stick as many inside as you can! They can be small.
SimontY said:
Oh I can second that. Stick as many inside as you can! They can be small.
They don't have to be tiny. I have 3 x 30va + a couple of others in mine! Mind you, the cd63 has more discrete circuits to feed overall, so smaller will be better in the long run. More tx's defo make a good difference.
btw The earthquake broke my chimney and the dog p!**ed his bed!
Lee.
Thomo said:btw The earthquake broke my chimney and the dog p!**ed his bed!
Sorry to hear it mate!

rowemeister said:
You can also run into ground loop problems with external power supplies, I would always recommend using an internal tx
I always intended to place the new TX inside.... why should I have ground loops ?
Thomo said:
They don't have to be tiny. I have 3 x 30va + a couple of others in mine! Mind you, the cd63 has more discrete circuits to feed overall, so smaller will be better in the long run. More tx's defo make a good difference.
btw The earthquake broke my chimney and the dog p!**ed his bed!
Lee.
Luckily your CD player is still OK 😀
Hi Brentrowemeister said:You can use one external tx but the gains are better using two as you are isolating the circuits.
You can also run into ground loop problems with external power supplies, I would always recommend using an internal tx
I have been rereading your last update on the Rowemeisters CD63 KI upgrd 05-08 with interest.
Following your indications, I already have a Nuvotem 30va18v with hexfreds for the analog opamps.
Now I would like to proceed with the servo tx but I am having difficulties understanding your paper:
On page 1 - DAC 1tx 15va9v
On page 4 - 1tx7va9v for dac analog + 1tx7va9v for dac digital ?!
Do you have only one tx with two windings ?
If so, can I use one TX with two windings to power +5v digital and +5v analog on the servo ?
Another point:
1tx 30va12v for one driver IC ?
Or do you mean all driver IC´s
Best regards
Ricardo
Removing main PCB
I just opened the player to do the headphone opamp and caps and found the on-off switch bar attached to the main PCB, so whats the best way to get he PCB out?
I just opened the player to do the headphone opamp and caps and found the on-off switch bar attached to the main PCB, so whats the best way to get he PCB out?
Hi Magilla
If you look at the bar it is split where it goes over the switch. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and gently!! prise apart the ends until you can slide the bar off the switch
Regards
Jim
If you look at the bar it is split where it goes over the switch. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and gently!! prise apart the ends until you can slide the bar off the switch
Regards
Jim
RCruz said:
Hi Brent
I have been rereading your last update on the Rowemeisters CD63 KI upgrd 05-08 with interest.
Following your indications, I already have a Nuvotem 30va18v with hexfreds for the analog opamps.
Now I would like to proceed with the servo tx but I am having difficulties understanding your paper:
On page 1 - DAC 1tx 15va9v
On page 4 - 1tx7va9v for dac analog + 1tx7va9v for dac digital ?!
Do you have only one tx with two windings ?
If so, can I use one TX with two windings to power +5v digital and +5v analog on the servo ?
Another point:
1tx 30va12v for one driver IC ?
Or do you mean all driver IC´s
Best regards
Ricardo
The 1X 15VA tx is for dac ana and dac digital - both running off a seperate winding (2x 7.5VA). I have amended the diagram as it said 2x 7VA.
The 30VA is for the 3 driver ics yes
Brent
jimh0612 said:Hi Magilla
If you look at the bar it is split where it goes over the switch. Use a flat bladed screwdriver and gently!! prise apart the ends until you can slide the bar off the switch
Regards
Jim
Ahhh, so that's how you're supposed to do it! I always just yank it off

should i use a china made clock from ebay that runs on dual rail supply or should i construct my own kwak clock that has been modify to single rail supply using an equivalent tentlab regulator?initially i thought of just removing the muting transistor n HDAM but since i'm going to take out the board, i'd as well change the clock too.
fossil2k said:should i use a china made clock from ebay that runs on dual rail supply or should i construct my own kwak clock that has been modify to single rail supply using an equivalent tentlab regulator?initially i thought of just removing the muting transistor n HDAM but since i'm going to take out the board, i'd as well change the clock too.
I started to build the Kwak clock on veroboard but then after reading some more I realised that the layout of the board is important.
I'm going to make some pcb's, but in the meantime my lovely wife bought me one of Brent's C1 clocks for Christmas.
I haven't fitted it yet but will do shortly, and am I looking forward to that. I know some of the lads on here are using them and they think they're fantastic for the price.
I looked at that Chinese clock and without knowing the board layout it would be very diificult to predict the quality.
So, I would go for the Kwak if you want to build your own (cheapest) or for the extra money, Brent's C1 would be a really good decision.
Cheers
Jim
fossil2k said:should i use a china made clock from ebay that runs on dual rail supply or should i construct my own kwak clock that has been modify to single rail supply using an equivalent tentlab regulator?initially i thought of just removing the muting transistor n HDAM but since i'm going to take out the board, i'd as well change the clock too.
Did you try the acoustica.org clock modd....? quite effective while you do not use Brent´s clock.
Ricardo
SimontY said:
Ahhh, so that's how you're supposed to do it! I always just yank it off![]()
Glup...😱
Must we believe you ?
SimontY said:
Ahhh, ......................... I always just yank it off![]()
There may be more ways than one to reading that!!
RCruz said:
Glup...😱
Must we believe you ?
Yes. They are designed to be a tight push fit. Sometimes a little tighter than others. A screwdriver is a better approach.
Andy
poynton said:
Yes. They are designed to be a tight push fit. Sometimes a little tighter than others. A screwdriver is a better approach.
Hi Andy
I know that... I was just joking.
I always used a screwdriver to let it loose and then I push it on after the mods...
Ricardo
RCruz said:
Glup...😱
Must we believe you ?
I don't exactly set examples for neatness or doing things properly

I can be a little impatient...
fossil2k said:should i use a china made clock from ebay that runs on dual rail supply or should i construct my own kwak clock that has been modify to single rail supply using an equivalent tentlab regulator?initially i thought of just removing the muting transistor n HDAM but since i'm going to take out the board, i'd as well change the clock too.
The chinese clock is ready made so implementation is quick.
The acoustica mod works but it is easy to wreck the board.
Despite it's reputation, the quack clock is nothing special in itself. It is the power supply and comparator which makes it.
Remember, all clocks go through the rather nasty inverter section in the DAC.
Andy
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