guido said:
I've looked at some of the posts on the "how not to distribute a clock" thread and they look pretty technical to me (apart from the bitching ones!).
Done the acoustica.org mod to correct ground bounce and about to fit a C1 clock from Brent.
How technical would the potential reclocking be?
Hi there,
wich feet do you consider to be the best to replace the OEM ones?
It's seems it's a soft absorbing versus steel hard decoupling story...
Such things?
http://www.hifigear.co.uk/site/scripts/product_browse.php?product_id=983&category_id=738
I want a real upgrade, but cheap.
Maybe this is enough?
http://www.audiophonics.fr/pointes-decouplage-coniques-laiton-set-p-2941.html?cPath=39_329
frankly, I'm lost!
wich feet do you consider to be the best to replace the OEM ones?
It's seems it's a soft absorbing versus steel hard decoupling story...
Such things?
http://www.hifigear.co.uk/site/scripts/product_browse.php?product_id=983&category_id=738
I want a real upgrade, but cheap.
Maybe this is enough?
http://www.audiophonics.fr/pointes-decouplage-coniques-laiton-set-p-2941.html?cPath=39_329
frankly, I'm lost!
Up for my previous question, as there's a simple and cheaper feet:
http://www.hifissimo.com/accessoire-oehlbach-55036-24921-1.html
Second, wich is my real problem, my mech makes noise!
When open or close the mech, it focuses, find or not a disc and most of the time when this sequence is off it clac clac clac quickly: I've checked in and it's the bloc shown on the pic below that shakes for a while with a loud clic clic clic.
Sometimes no noise, CD in, spins a while, find tracks, stops and... done.
Sometimes CD in, spins and just before show tracks and/or stop clac clac clac... then stops, and I can play!
It occurs only when any sequence goes from moving to stop position. Like can't find a dead home position or such.
Any idea beside time to buy a spare CDM12?
It's very annoying and maybe the swan's song of my mech...
Matthieu
http://www.hifissimo.com/accessoire-oehlbach-55036-24921-1.html
Second, wich is my real problem, my mech makes noise!
When open or close the mech, it focuses, find or not a disc and most of the time when this sequence is off it clac clac clac quickly: I've checked in and it's the bloc shown on the pic below that shakes for a while with a loud clic clic clic.
Sometimes no noise, CD in, spins a while, find tracks, stops and... done.
Sometimes CD in, spins and just before show tracks and/or stop clac clac clac... then stops, and I can play!
It occurs only when any sequence goes from moving to stop position. Like can't find a dead home position or such.
Any idea beside time to buy a spare CDM12?
It's very annoying and maybe the swan's song of my mech...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Matthieu
RCruz said:
Should I install a tx for the +5v on the servo, or should I do it instead on the dac ?
What should be the most effective modd ?
When I upgraded the servo psu lines, I got a lot more detail so I believe I get more control on the drivers and the way the lazer lens travels.
Should I start by the servo ?
Ricardo
Hi Matthieu
It's funny that you should mention the mech. I have just replaced mine with a non-Chinese made VAM1201. My CDM12.1 was beginning to occasionally skip on CD-R's and the "gift" for replacing is a dead silent spindle motor.
My old one was obviously making a lot of noise when spinning the disc, I recon' now.
My advice - replace!
It's funny that you should mention the mech. I have just replaced mine with a non-Chinese made VAM1201. My CDM12.1 was beginning to occasionally skip on CD-R's and the "gift" for replacing is a dead silent spindle motor.
My old one was obviously making a lot of noise when spinning the disc, I recon' now.
My advice - replace!
Malefoda said:
If you asked Simonty, he would probably say "oak cones" because they work for him!!! LOL
The answer to your question is "it depends on what your CD-P is sitting on."
If it sits on a rigid surface which is well coupled to the "ground", then you should choose a hard foot in order to keep the CD-P coupled.
On the other hand, if your CD-P is on a surface which will readily transmit vibration , eg a table, then you need to decouple the CD-P from this by using shock-absorbing feet.
The actual choice of steel, aluminium, oak .... or Squash balls, neoprene.... is up to you.
I hope this helps.
Andy
RCruz said:
I believe the most important link in a sound system is always in the beggining.
In the case of an analog disc spinner, before all you must choose the best needle but in the case of the CD53, I can not choose a better lens and lazer diode.
Than, we must ensure the platter does not "ring", so we look for heavy matterials.
This makes us use a heavy duty bearing to cope with the noise generated by a heavy platter spinning.
In the case of the CD53, I can do nothing but "deaden" the transport with bitumen.
Than you look for a stable platform for the "neddle".
In the analog scene, the best are tangencial arms but they are very complicated (some using air bearings (imagine the noise of the air pumps) and all are very expensive).
In the case of the CD53 we already use a tangencial arm !
The best upgrade must than be on the Servo that controls the way this arm mooves right ?
Ricardo
avr300 said:
You need heavy stuff to have momentum.
If you use light stiff matterials, you will need a very powerfull motor to become the variations of drag caused by the modulation of the disc, on the stylus.
Motors are always noisy and fluctuating
You can use a light platter if your transport has a built in iddler weel (heavy one).
If you ensure the heavy platter is well dumped, you will benefit from its mass to have fast transients.
Now I must shut up......thread hacking
Note:
In the case of CD transports, as the CD radial speed is not uniform, I believe we must have a high precision mottor, and the less mass the better, so the variations of speed can be done very fast.
Ricardo
I've had a look to my CDM12 mech, the label shows no mention to Philips... and spins very noisily and sadly knocks a lot also these days... I will move to a genuine VAM1202 ( http://www.indipc.fr/connectique,va...ge,zoom,mod,boutique,gps,4917925-1711.fr.html ) very soon, will cost me 2 CDs ='( I though with my Quad's upgrade I can turn the page and go on with other works in the house, seems it's not over...
SimontY said:
SimontY, you are right that I'm interested
I've also look at the clock for the servo section. Will using a divide by 2 clock do any improvement for my CD63? Or should I get a separate C1 for the servo? Reason for being "extra" careful bout this is that the exchange rate for 1GBP is equivalent to Malaysia 6.5.