poynton said:
Ug, yep! If the laser doesn't fix it, then it must be the clock. One way or another it'll be working soon! 😎
Thanks guys for all the help.
I checked the clock section again and re-did some of the soldering and also replaced the crystal with a new one I happened to have on hand.
The disc now spins up but in service mode P-03 still shows Error 10 or 13. More often, its Error 13.
I have re-seated the laser head cable and replaced the whole laser assembly, so the fault probably isn't there.
Any other places I should be looking at ?
Oh yes, does the crystal have any orientation ? I placed it with the wordings on the case with the same orientation as the old cystal.
I checked the clock section again and re-did some of the soldering and also replaced the crystal with a new one I happened to have on hand.
The disc now spins up but in service mode P-03 still shows Error 10 or 13. More often, its Error 13.
I have re-seated the laser head cable and replaced the whole laser assembly, so the fault probably isn't there.
Any other places I should be looking at ?
Oh yes, does the crystal have any orientation ? I placed it with the wordings on the case with the same orientation as the old cystal.
I am not sure if this is relevant the last time i have similar problem i undo the mod on the transport mechanism. Then the whole thing works again.
I swapped my laser the other day. Brent was right: even more difficult than hardwiring the mech to the main board. A nightmare IQ-testing puzzle.
Anyway, I eventually managed it (probably broke the old one in the process). It still doesn't work, but it's yet another different mode of non-functionality. It now flashes "disc" intermittently and gently attempts to pull the draw in further every couple of seconds. It won't read the TOC or even spin the disc. It doesn't even want to give me the service mode. Not ideal, and less than 1 week till the UK DIY Audio meet!
Simon
Anyway, I eventually managed it (probably broke the old one in the process). It still doesn't work, but it's yet another different mode of non-functionality. It now flashes "disc" intermittently and gently attempts to pull the draw in further every couple of seconds. It won't read the TOC or even spin the disc. It doesn't even want to give me the service mode. Not ideal, and less than 1 week till the UK DIY Audio meet!
Simon
Could be the drawer sensor - maybe it doesn't know it's closed?
Just to let anyone know who's interested, I changed the caps around the opamps from 100uF 50v BG STD, to 220uF 25v BG FK. The sound is now more refined and has even more detail and better bass. I guess I'm getting to the point where I'll have to change the opamps to LM4562. I don't want to lose any of the warmth in the sound though. Any recommendations anyone?
Regards, Lee.
Just to let anyone know who's interested, I changed the caps around the opamps from 100uF 50v BG STD, to 220uF 25v BG FK. The sound is now more refined and has even more detail and better bass. I guess I'm getting to the point where I'll have to change the opamps to LM4562. I don't want to lose any of the warmth in the sound though. Any recommendations anyone?
Regards, Lee.
The drawer sensor! Interesting idea! I'll check.
What op-amps are you using?
If music to you is accuracy LM4562 is good, but if it's the warm pleasant, immersive tones you won't like it much.
Simon
What op-amps are you using?
If music to you is accuracy LM4562 is good, but if it's the warm pleasant, immersive tones you won't like it much.
Simon
I currently have AD827's and like them very much. I was just wondering if anything had a similar character with better detail levels.
My speakers really show exactly what's there, and actually prefer valve amps. I can't afford one though, so I try to avoid any bright or analytical or "transistor sounding" gear.
Lee.
My speakers really show exactly what's there, and actually prefer valve amps. I can't afford one though, so I try to avoid any bright or analytical or "transistor sounding" gear.
Lee.
If your speakers are on the cool side you might not want to bother with LM4562. Although it doesn't hurt to try.
Re: Re: Marantz 63KI - OPA6172IN mods
😀 Thank you Brent,
LM4562 appears to have very good specs, but seems RS and Farnell has no stocks. Any other place to get a couple please? By the way will the chips shine with jazz and classicals? Is the schematics attached here applicable from your experience? Think I should also give a better +12/-12v supply for op-amps and 5V for decoder and dac. Any ideas, please.
rowemeister said:
😀 Thank you Brent,
LM4562 appears to have very good specs, but seems RS and Farnell has no stocks. Any other place to get a couple please? By the way will the chips shine with jazz and classicals? Is the schematics attached here applicable from your experience? Think I should also give a better +12/-12v supply for op-amps and 5V for decoder and dac. Any ideas, please.
I have a couple of questions regarding further mods to my CD67OSEKI
Would it be beneficial to supply the TDA1302 on the HF board with its own +5v supply?
Also, I have another Superclock II, can I supply the decoder/servo ic with this separate clock, similar to what Brent did in his '63KI?
I am now struggling to think of any other mods I can perform on the player without buying expensive superregs, so any ideas are welcome.
Lee.
Would it be beneficial to supply the TDA1302 on the HF board with its own +5v supply?
Also, I have another Superclock II, can I supply the decoder/servo ic with this separate clock, similar to what Brent did in his '63KI?
I am now struggling to think of any other mods I can perform on the player without buying expensive superregs, so any ideas are welcome.
Lee.
LOL the better regs will push it far but for now yes stick another 5v supply onto the HF pcb. Little gains but they all add up.
Brent
Brent
Tried an op-amp shootout in my old Denon TU-660L tuner at the weekend. A little OT but we are talking op-amps.
The conditions are bad for an op-amp, especially a fast one.
1) single supply (0/12V)
2) non-inverting unity-gain (i.e., open to common-mode distortion in the input stage)
3) input is not at Vcc/2, it's at 4.6V (DC coupled from MPX chip)
4) no - that's NO - local decoupling. Naughty Denon.
Original was NJM4558.
All opamps had 0.1uF stacked film and 330uF Pan FC added across +12V/0V.
Results:
1) AD8065x2 SOIC on Brown Dog (crisp, clean and punchy)
2) AD826 (a little too 'in-ya-face' but good)
3) OPA627x2 SOIC on Brown Dog (nice, but a tad loose down below)
4) OPA2132 (similar but darker)
5) LM4562 (harsh highs)
The conditions are bad for an op-amp, especially a fast one.
1) single supply (0/12V)
2) non-inverting unity-gain (i.e., open to common-mode distortion in the input stage)
3) input is not at Vcc/2, it's at 4.6V (DC coupled from MPX chip)
4) no - that's NO - local decoupling. Naughty Denon.
Original was NJM4558.
All opamps had 0.1uF stacked film and 330uF Pan FC added across +12V/0V.
Results:
1) AD8065x2 SOIC on Brown Dog (crisp, clean and punchy)
2) AD826 (a little too 'in-ya-face' but good)
3) OPA627x2 SOIC on Brown Dog (nice, but a tad loose down below)
4) OPA2132 (similar but darker)
5) LM4562 (harsh highs)
Brent
For the coax mod do i have to cut any traces after connecting the coaxial cable.
As for the blue light mech mod, which point do i draw the power for?
Any resistors to go in line?
and is it okay if i were to use another colour? say violet, or orange.
For the coax mod do i have to cut any traces after connecting the coaxial cable.
As for the blue light mech mod, which point do i draw the power for?
Any resistors to go in line?
and is it okay if i were to use another colour? say violet, or orange.
Glenn2 said:
One thing I notice is that you used FC. I find these make the LM4562 too sterile. Could you try the test with nothing across the opamps 😉
Cerefines , Silmics and of course BG are ideal with this opamp.
Brent
marcusdeming said:
For the coax HF to RF mod just lift R501 and solder coax onto it.
I used the raw 10V before the standard 5V reg to the leds and used a resistor to drop the voltage. The idea behind blue leds is that it removes stray red light (from the laser). It appears to work better on some cd players than others. Does look cool tho
Brent
FC were the only thing I had to hand unfortunately.
When I had op-amps in my 67SE the LM4562 gave a better showing, but I still much preferred the AD chips.
Probably as much to do with taste and system synergy than anything else.
The AD826 and AD8065 are fully-specced for single-rail operation. I thought op-amps didn't care as long as you kept the signal well between the rails, but AD make a big thing of this in their data sheets, claiming a specially developed input stage with this in mind for the AD8065, so maybe it's significant in this application.
When I had op-amps in my 67SE the LM4562 gave a better showing, but I still much preferred the AD chips.
Probably as much to do with taste and system synergy than anything else.
The AD826 and AD8065 are fully-specced for single-rail operation. I thought op-amps didn't care as long as you kept the signal well between the rails, but AD make a big thing of this in their data sheets, claiming a specially developed input stage with this in mind for the AD8065, so maybe it's significant in this application.