avr300 said:R150 is ok, or take it on U237, right next to the transformer (the TX).
avr300 for u237 i draw the power where should the -ve goes to?
or do i just solder the led in there will do?
wavey line is ac = alternating current
straight line is dc = direct current
You want dc
Brent
straight line is dc = direct current
You want dc
Brent
marcusdeming said:
avr300 for u237 i draw the power where should the -ve goes to?
or do i just solder the led in there will do?
You only need +ve and ground
Red to U237 and black to ground (chassis)
Brent
Start with 2.2K and work backwards usually works for me. Every led demands different voltage and current.
If it starts to go off red and orange then the voltage is too high and a larger value resistor will be needed.
I would have thought a red led would have an adverse effect on the laser by adding extra spurious red light into the equation.
Also check the resistor does not over heat.
Brent
If it starts to go off red and orange then the voltage is too high and a larger value resistor will be needed.
I would have thought a red led would have an adverse effect on the laser by adding extra spurious red light into the equation.
Also check the resistor does not over heat.
Brent
with regards to the type of light, i was wondering initially was blue light chosen because of its shorter wavelength, if thats the case would a violet or white light have a even shorter wavelength.
As for the resistors would a 1/4w do fine?
As for the resistors would a 1/4w do fine?
marcusdeming said:with regards to the type of light, i was wondering initially was blue light chosen because of its shorter wavelength, if thats the case would a violet or white light have a even shorter wavelength.
As for the resistors would a 1/4w do fine?
Not sure why but you are meant to use green or blue.
You probably won't hear any difference so make sure it looks nice at least.
Violet would probs be ok. Mainly chosen because blue does not allow red light (or very little) through. Only the focused light gets through. Its not over scientific but it gave a tiny tiny improvement of some delicate treble on some cds.
Try 1/4 watt and see. You may find a higher watt res is needed
Brent
Try 1/4 watt and see. You may find a higher watt res is needed
Brent
Hahahaaa.. alright ..I was very tempted to have a white or violet light in it cos my tube head amp looks really cool with white light.
alright will have the violet/ blue led in.
since we are at this can some one tell me where is this mod located.
Insert new 5V voltage regulators (LM317 based) for analog and digital VDD pins of DAC and clock circuit
which are the vdd pins?
since we are at this can some one tell me where is this mod located.
Insert new 5V voltage regulators (LM317 based) for analog and digital VDD pins of DAC and clock circuit
which are the vdd pins?
This is the only pic I have to hand
I drilled the mech, you have to measure it so that the center point of the led is just below the level of the cd.
For the DAC use RD04 for digital - RD01 for clock voltage and U199 for analogue. Cut U200 too
Brent
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I drilled the mech, you have to measure it so that the center point of the led is just below the level of the cd.
For the DAC use RD04 for digital - RD01 for clock voltage and U199 for analogue. Cut U200 too
Brent
rowemeister said:This is the only pic I have to hand
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I drilled the mech, you have to measure it so that the center point of the led is just below the level of the cd.
For the DAC use RD04 for digital - RD01 for clock voltage and U199 for analogue. Cut U200 too
Brent
very nice, but does it have to be on the mech can i have it at the back of the mech. i am woried about drilling, the lack of tools always screw certain things up
It is the easiest and most pro way of doing it. All you need is a 5mm drill bit (assuming the leds are 5mm). Then push em in the holes.
Brent
Brent
just finish the 75r and swap in the lm4562 back again.
Will source for some things else and conitnue to work on the led...enjoying my music now..
Will source for some things else and conitnue to work on the led...enjoying my music now..
Can someone give me a hand on the calculations to build the ragulators, lm317 and lm337 based
Uout = 1,25V * (1+ R2/R1) + Iadj * R2
whats does the Iadj means?
Uout = 1,25V * (1+ R2/R1) + Iadj * R2
whats does the Iadj means?
marcusdeming said:Can someone give me a hand on the calculations to build the ragulators, lm317 and lm337 based
Uout = 1,25V * (1+ R2/R1) + Iadj * R2
whats does the Iadj means?
Hi Marcus,
Iadj is the current flowing in or out the ADJ pin of the regulator. You can safely ignore this last term of the formula, because it is very small compared to the current flowing through the divider R1 and R2, only 50...100uA.
So, Uout = 1,25V * (1+ R2/R1) or R2/R1 = (Uout/1,25)-1
Regards,
Ray
I see so what i will need is to get the resistor value correct, just to confirm something else. The tants are correct at 10uf/16v?
and for the mod on Q801 and Q802 what we need is 12v output right?
and for the mod on Q801 and Q802 what we need is 12v output right?
6h5c said:
Hi Marcus,
Iadj is the current flowing in or out the ADJ pin of the regulator. You can safely ignore this last term of the formula, because it is very small compared to the current flowing through the divider R1 and R2, only 50...100uA.
So, Uout = 1,25V * (1+ R2/R1) or R2/R1 = (Uout/1,25)-1
Regards,
Ray
Using that R1 at 121 and r2 1005
I get 11.6v
is that correct?
I am thinking of substituting the value as i cannot get the 1k5 and 121r.
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