Speaking of mistakes..................
I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs last night to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511.
I now have a problem reading discs.
Tray closes but the disc does not spin up initially.
Sometimes the display shows Cd-3_1
Have tried test mode but no error codes come up without a disc. All functions operate correctly on command.
With a disc the motor spins the disc up quite fast on switch on and it keeps spinning fast.
I have measured +5v at all the regs (I had already checked the voltages before soldering into place.
The only difference I can find is that the reg at R511 feels quite warm, while the others are cool.
Blowed if I know what to do next.
Any ideas??
Jim
I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs last night to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511.
I now have a problem reading discs.
Tray closes but the disc does not spin up initially.
Sometimes the display shows Cd-3_1
Have tried test mode but no error codes come up without a disc. All functions operate correctly on command.
With a disc the motor spins the disc up quite fast on switch on and it keeps spinning fast.
I have measured +5v at all the regs (I had already checked the voltages before soldering into place.
The only difference I can find is that the reg at R511 feels quite warm, while the others are cool.
Blowed if I know what to do next.
Any ideas??
Jim
I took a fairly educated stab on my speakers, and they work well.
I chose these as they are very very neutral and only show whats coming off your system - no added sounds (according to all the reviews). I can and I think Simon will can vouch for that.
I took the option of paying for them an a credit card with 12 month interest free after balance transfer. Pay monthly - sorted.
Brent
I chose these as they are very very neutral and only show whats coming off your system - no added sounds (according to all the reviews). I can and I think Simon will can vouch for that.
I took the option of paying for them an a credit card with 12 month interest free after balance transfer. Pay monthly - sorted.
Brent
jimh0612 said:Speaking of mistakes..................
I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs last night to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511.
I now have a problem reading discs.
Tray closes but the disc does not spin up initially.
Sometimes the display shows Cd-3_1
Have tried test mode but no error codes come up without a disc. All functions operate correctly on command.
With a disc the motor spins the disc up quite fast on switch on and it keeps spinning fast.
I have measured +5v at all the regs (I had already checked the voltages before soldering into place.
The only difference I can find is that the reg at R511 feels quite warm, while the others are cool.
Blowed if I know what to do next.
Any ideas??
Jim
R511 thats the decoder analogue VDDA. This should not get warm.Having said that you are better off without the resistors anyway.
A disc spinning fast usually means a servo or decoder fault. Also check the 5V clock supply to RD01 on DAC.
I do worry about the warm resistor though
Brent
I removed each of the resistors mentioned and inserted the regs in the vacant hole nearest the corresponding IC.
I have checked and each reg is showing +5v.
It is the heatsink/die/whatever of the LM317 reg itself in the Rayreg at R511 that feels warm to the touch. This could be normal from the loading but I don't know how much current it needs.
Could I have shorted something or did I need to remove something else when I fitted the regs?
When I get chance tonight I'll check that i can read 5v all the way to the DAC
I have checked and each reg is showing +5v.
It is the heatsink/die/whatever of the LM317 reg itself in the Rayreg at R511 that feels warm to the touch. This could be normal from the loading but I don't know how much current it needs.
Could I have shorted something or did I need to remove something else when I fitted the regs?
When I get chance tonight I'll check that i can read 5v all the way to the DAC
67 SE no left channel output
my unit was working fine till i bridged the power pins +/- on op amps with .1 mf stacked film caps. i hooked back up but now, the left channel is dead? i did not notice any solder bridges anywhere i even replaced both op amps from the ad8620 to ad826 i had on hand and left channel is still dead? any ideas what might have happened? also, maybe some key test points the only thing i have though is a fluke meter model 73. thanks for any help!
my unit was working fine till i bridged the power pins +/- on op amps with .1 mf stacked film caps. i hooked back up but now, the left channel is dead? i did not notice any solder bridges anywhere i even replaced both op amps from the ad8620 to ad826 i had on hand and left channel is still dead? any ideas what might have happened? also, maybe some key test points the only thing i have though is a fluke meter model 73. thanks for any help!
Result!!
Thought you might like to know....er.......um....... I had soldered the reg in to the wrong hole from R511, on the 5v rail side..........
Yes, I know, I can hear you saying pi**ock!
As this already has 5v feed from the existing rail, the reg was getting warm trying to feed +5v into +5v!
As I now have a +5v feed to decoder analogue everything works.
The result based on 5 mins listening to Michael Buble- wow!
Soundstage has opened up, more depth and dynamics, more detail, well, more of everything really. Can hear the slight ringing of one of the strings on the double bass on the third track (Kissing a Fool).
Would like to go the whole hog on 5v regs before I put in the +/- 12 vregs for the opamps.
To split the decoder analogue I think I lift U200, but where do I insert the reg?
Also if I split the DAC analogue where would I do that?
Any other suggestions on the 5v supplies would be welcome.
Thanks for help and support guys and Brent. Solid bloke!
Thought you might like to know....er.......um....... I had soldered the reg in to the wrong hole from R511, on the 5v rail side..........
Yes, I know, I can hear you saying pi**ock!
As this already has 5v feed from the existing rail, the reg was getting warm trying to feed +5v into +5v!
As I now have a +5v feed to decoder analogue everything works.
The result based on 5 mins listening to Michael Buble- wow!
Soundstage has opened up, more depth and dynamics, more detail, well, more of everything really. Can hear the slight ringing of one of the strings on the double bass on the third track (Kissing a Fool).
Would like to go the whole hog on 5v regs before I put in the +/- 12 vregs for the opamps.
To split the decoder analogue I think I lift U200, but where do I insert the reg?
Also if I split the DAC analogue where would I do that?
Any other suggestions on the 5v supplies would be welcome.
Thanks for help and support guys and Brent. Solid bloke!
Re: 67 SE no left channel output UPDATE!
problem solved!
crippledchicken said:my unit was working fine till i bridged the power pins +/- on op amps with .1 mf stacked film caps. i hooked back up but now, the left channel is dead? i did not notice any solder bridges anywhere i even replaced both op amps from the ad8620 to ad826 i had on hand and left channel is still dead? any ideas what might have happened? also, maybe some key test points the only thing i have though is a fluke meter model 73. thanks for any help!
problem solved!
Re: Result!!
LOL
Well at least its sorted now.
The 12V regs need to be good regs tbh. It benefits from a really clean supply, also use quality caps too. BG FK for 20V rails makes a large improvement.
Brent
jimh0612 said:Thought you might like to know....er.......um....... I had soldered the reg in to the wrong hole from R511, on the 5v rail side..........
Yes, I know, I can hear you saying pi**ock!
As this already has 5v feed from the existing rail, the reg was getting warm trying to feed +5v into +5v!
As I now have a +5v feed to decoder analogue everything works.
The result based on 5 mins listening to Michael Buble- wow!
Soundstage has opened up, more depth and dynamics, more detail, well, more of everything really. Can hear the slight ringing of one of the strings on the double bass on the third track (Kissing a Fool).
Would like to go the whole hog on 5v regs before I put in the +/- 12 vregs for the opamps.
To split the decoder analogue I think I lift U200, but where do I insert the reg?
Also if I split the DAC analogue where would I do that?
Any other suggestions on the 5v supplies would be welcome.
Thanks for help and support guys and Brent. Solid bloke!
LOL Well at least its sorted now.
The 12V regs need to be good regs tbh. It benefits from a really clean supply, also use quality caps too. BG FK for 20V rails makes a large improvement.
Brent
Marantz 63KI - OPA6172IN mods
Hi, I'm a newbie, done some mods with the invaluable info from your generous contributions to the forum. Upgraded with better FC, polystyrene, ceramic Caps for bypass and noise reductions to all the chips, etc. Also removed HDAM o/p caps, but trying to use LM6172 seems to have problem with correct bias. Can anyone help with diagram. Happy the music is more coherent and cleaner tho' lacking bass punch, maybe 6172 may improve things somewhat.
Also where to get transport gear(drive pinion 026M, part no.4822 528 81464 as listed in 43/53/63 manual). Mine's broken 2 teeth when the 030M switch failed!!!
If needed, Farnell still has LCR 1%polystrene caps and some smd schottky 30V 4A diode, easy replacement and free up pcb space. Will test if as good as 1N5822.
Thanks.
Hi, I'm a newbie, done some mods with the invaluable info from your generous contributions to the forum. Upgraded with better FC, polystyrene, ceramic Caps for bypass and noise reductions to all the chips, etc. Also removed HDAM o/p caps, but trying to use LM6172 seems to have problem with correct bias. Can anyone help with diagram. Happy the music is more coherent and cleaner tho' lacking bass punch, maybe 6172 may improve things somewhat.
Also where to get transport gear(drive pinion 026M, part no.4822 528 81464 as listed in 43/53/63 manual). Mine's broken 2 teeth when the 030M switch failed!!!
If needed, Farnell still has LCR 1%polystrene caps and some smd schottky 30V 4A diode, easy replacement and free up pcb space. Will test if as good as 1N5822.
Thanks.
Re: Marantz 63KI - OPA6172IN mods
Hi and welcome Simon
Firstly I would go for the LM4562 with black gate caps (C611 - 614) using the 16V 220uF standard types. I think you will find this set up stomps on anything else. Also Use large uF caps on the 20V rails (C803 804) to help bass.
Gear wise i'm not sure you can get them anymore. Worst case scenario is to buy a faulty cd63 67 off ebay for very little money and use the mech from that + loads of spare bits.
Brent
Simon Chee said:
Hi and welcome Simon
Firstly I would go for the LM4562 with black gate caps (C611 - 614) using the 16V 220uF standard types. I think you will find this set up stomps on anything else. Also Use large uF caps on the 20V rails (C803 804) to help bass.
Gear wise i'm not sure you can get them anymore. Worst case scenario is to buy a faulty cd63 67 off ebay for very little money and use the mech from that + loads of spare bits.
Brent
Thanks for the advice Brent.
I was going to use the SuperRayregs on the 12v rails for now (LM317 with parallel diodes and gyrator) with a view to maybe upgrading them later.
Do you think I should stick at the 4x 5v Rayregs for now at RD01 (X'tal), RD04 (DAC digital power pin 16), R511 (Decoder analogue) and R508 (Decoder digital).
Would there be much benefit from splitting the rails further?
Rgds
Jim
I was going to use the SuperRayregs on the 12v rails for now (LM317 with parallel diodes and gyrator) with a view to maybe upgrading them later.
Do you think I should stick at the 4x 5v Rayregs for now at RD01 (X'tal), RD04 (DAC digital power pin 16), R511 (Decoder analogue) and R508 (Decoder digital).
Would there be much benefit from splitting the rails further?
Rgds
Jim
marcusdeming said:
They're not really needed ultimately. They're partly for making the muting circuit work. You'll want to bypass a) the HDAM, b) the muting transistors, c) the output caps, d) those resistors and anything else there. Take a wire straight from the op-amp output to the RCAs. With all this clutter avoided the sound will be much cleaner with easier to follow basslines and more detail.
Sometimes people use an output resistor of 10-50R. It doesn't seem to be needed normally, however.
Simon
marcusdeming said:
Couple the op-amp (or HDAM which is a discrete op-amp) to the interconnect which represents a capacitive load. This is something that most op-amps really hate and can cause ringing/overshoot/oscillation.
I would consider them utterly necessary (but that's just me
). 50R to100R is about right. I usually use 75R.
I am using matched 10r's on the output with AD827 opamps and it seems ok.
On the dac and deconder digital 5v rails I have been using 47uF Black Gate PK's, soldered underneath the board with 2mm leads and was very happy with the sound. I have just replaced these with 47uF 6.3v Black Gate Nx Hi-Q's...... WOW!
This upgrade was better in terms of sound as supplying the Superclock II with its own transformer, schottky's, and lm317!
Here's a pic
http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cd67digcaps1dm9.jpg
On the dac and deconder digital 5v rails I have been using 47uF Black Gate PK's, soldered underneath the board with 2mm leads and was very happy with the sound. I have just replaced these with 47uF 6.3v Black Gate Nx Hi-Q's...... WOW!
This upgrade was better in terms of sound as supplying the Superclock II with its own transformer, schottky's, and lm317!
Here's a pic
http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cd67digcaps1dm9.jpg