No Jaffa Cakes here I'm afraid. Is Marks & Sparks a compatible replacement for McVities?
Given the strength of the pound vs the dollar it might be cheaper to get 2 mechanisms from the states rather than 1 from the UK. Or maybe a group buy as there a discounts for 5 or 10 units.
Given the strength of the pound vs the dollar it might be cheaper to get 2 mechanisms from the states rather than 1 from the UK. Or maybe a group buy as there a discounts for 5 or 10 units.
Grahame, congradulations on solving the Chinese puzzle! (this nearly did me in) You have succesfully passed the test and will be recieving you certificate shortly in the mail. I was the dunce of the class. It took me three hours! Now I am getting worried as I read about the failures of these new units. I would be up for a group buy of the real thing as well. I can't bear to think of having to face the C. puzzle again but it comes to that...
Hi Grahame - yes the Philips label on your VAM1202 looks like the label on the good one I photographed (the one that actually said Philips CDM12.1 on the box). Looks like you were lucky!
I think the Marks & Spencer jaffa cakes are re-badged Bahlsen of Germany ones. Well they look the same, taste the same, have the same internal packaging and say "Made in Germany" on the box. Maybe they are a no-name copy that go stale quicker?😀
I think the Marks & Spencer jaffa cakes are re-badged Bahlsen of Germany ones. Well they look the same, taste the same, have the same internal packaging and say "Made in Germany" on the box. Maybe they are a no-name copy that go stale quicker?😀
Glenn2 said:
Hi,
I also had one that failed within 6 months. At the time I put it down to the number of times that I'd taken the player to pieces and put it back wrongly. I'm pretty sure that they don't like vibrating around trying to find a signal lock for longish periods as mine used to do.
Regards
Pete
aquar said:
Cheers aquar, lots of BIG close-up pics would be good!
(and a mark up of where the pins go on the schematic if you get time 🙂 ... )
k.
Ray, Martin,
I would really appreciate if you could give me your comment on my Post #6587.
BTW I have also built a tracking preregulator with capacitance multiplier preceeding it 🙂. I just don't know what could be the optimal combination of transistor type and RC values for 80mA ripple...
Many thanks,
Baki
I would really appreciate if you could give me your comment on my Post #6587.
BTW I have also built a tracking preregulator with capacitance multiplier preceeding it 🙂. I just don't know what could be the optimal combination of transistor type and RC values for 80mA ripple...
Many thanks,
Baki
I think these guys are making the lasers.
The one in their pic has a Philips label. I wonder if Philips got them to make them anyway and they carried on after Philips stopped?
The two VAM1202 I have look identical in every way apart from the label.
Maybe QC has dipped now or maybe I was just unlucky.
The one in their pic has a Philips label. I wonder if Philips got them to make them anyway and they carried on after Philips stopped?
The two VAM1202 I have look identical in every way apart from the label.
Maybe QC has dipped now or maybe I was just unlucky.
Baka - 33k/1uF should be fine for any homemade Darlington. It's too high for a single transistor on it's own though - the voltage drop would be huge.
Martin,
While we have your attention, may I ask, what is your opinion of the Tent Labs Shunt regulators?
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/kits/tl_shunt.html
That is if you've heard them.
Ray,
Are those what you used on your discrete output stage?
Cheers,
Simon
While we have your attention, may I ask, what is your opinion of the Tent Labs Shunt regulators?
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/kits/tl_shunt.html
That is if you've heard them.
Ray,
Are those what you used on your discrete output stage?
Cheers,
Simon