Simon I meant the technic used to find neutral/live, not the fact of looking for it 
I've done a listenning session at Sinead O'Connor, Sean Nos Nva album, Lord Baker track.
The "d" ans "s" are very harsh, is someone have this disc to listen at? I also find some voices vibrations wich was not here before
Ok I stop looking for flaws and will try to sleep tonight (not sure as France has chosen the black path...)
I've done a listenning session at Sinead O'Connor, Sean Nos Nva album, Lord Baker track.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The "d" ans "s" are very harsh, is someone have this disc to listen at? I also find some voices vibrations wich was not here before
Ok I stop looking for flaws and will try to sleep tonight (not sure as France has chosen the black path...)
The live/neutral thing...since I'm not a fan of including myself in any measurement loop (as per the diagram linked!) you can simply power-up the various boxes - cd, preamp, amp - and using a digital voltmeter, measure between the output connectors 0v. Arrange mains wiring to minimise potental differences between the boxes, which will minimise the circulating currents - which is what you really want.
aquar said:
Does anyone have pics or diagrams of where all these SEVEN!!?? 7# 5V Regs go?
I have only seen previous references to replacing
2 x 12V (+/1-) Analog Supply
3 x 5V (+V) two regulators power the clock and digital sections of the DAC. The third regulator for the analog stage.
as per this post (mine, but refers to others work)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1134614#post1134614
k.
63 mods
Hi guys, i have looked at the nifo regard signal coupling capacitor around the op-amp and it seems that BG is the preferrred choice. However as usual the problem from Australia is availability-and from Ray's list the Elna RSH is nolonger available from Farnell. What do you guys recommend? Ihave some spare Sanyo- oscon but i understand they are not good for analog output stages. Thanks Quan.
Hi guys, i have looked at the nifo regard signal coupling capacitor around the op-amp and it seems that BG is the preferrred choice. However as usual the problem from Australia is availability-and from Ray's list the Elna RSH is nolonger available from Farnell. What do you guys recommend? Ihave some spare Sanyo- oscon but i understand they are not good for analog output stages. Thanks Quan.
DIP8 sockets
Hi fellows,
For my opamps are direct soldered on the PCB I want to fit some sockets. I've some, but looks ugly to me when compared to the one supplied with my Tentlabs XO (wich is used in my amp's preamp even if it acts like a Flea's AD797...).
Here is the stuff:
Please tell me if by any way it's better find "tulip" ones. Don't want problems where I deserve improvments!
Thanks!
Hi fellows,
For my opamps are direct soldered on the PCB I want to fit some sockets. I've some, but looks ugly to me when compared to the one supplied with my Tentlabs XO (wich is used in my amp's preamp even if it acts like a Flea's AD797...).
Here is the stuff:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Please tell me if by any way it's better find "tulip" ones. Don't want problems where I deserve improvments!
Thanks!
I hope someone can help me out, my CD-57 MKII keeps resetting once in a while. The display goes blank, and comes back as it would be turning on again. This usually goes on for a while until i turn it off and on again. I couldn't find any fluctuations in the voltages or reset line or anything.
This is what I have modded until now:
Opamp power supply is now 4x BG 1000uF bipolar, 4x BG 330uF 16V LM7815 and LM7915 + 1K parrallel load at each line
DAC supply is now 4x BG 33uF 16V bipolar + 2x BG 330uF 16V + 100nF SMD
New 16.9334MHz crystal, low jitter close to the DAC
Removed digital out components
Removed headphone out components
Removed mute circuit
Installed new VAM 12.2 laser unit + clamp
Added several capacitor upgrades (BG + tantalum + SMD + cerrafines)
Replaced all JRC types with 7805CT regulators
Added 22nF over each power supply diode
The problem started after placing the BG + SMD diodes + VAM laser unit. I just can't figure out what is wrong. Seems like the reset line is kicking in, or a 7805 regulator is going into protection (shorted). I know the last one is not the case (cant measure any short circuit).
Sometimes the player won't spin up or recognise the CD.
Does anyone have an idea that can help me out?
This is what I have modded until now:
Opamp power supply is now 4x BG 1000uF bipolar, 4x BG 330uF 16V LM7815 and LM7915 + 1K parrallel load at each line
DAC supply is now 4x BG 33uF 16V bipolar + 2x BG 330uF 16V + 100nF SMD
New 16.9334MHz crystal, low jitter close to the DAC
Removed digital out components
Removed headphone out components
Removed mute circuit
Installed new VAM 12.2 laser unit + clamp
Added several capacitor upgrades (BG + tantalum + SMD + cerrafines)
Replaced all JRC types with 7805CT regulators
Added 22nF over each power supply diode
The problem started after placing the BG + SMD diodes + VAM laser unit. I just can't figure out what is wrong. Seems like the reset line is kicking in, or a 7805 regulator is going into protection (shorted). I know the last one is not the case (cant measure any short circuit).
Sometimes the player won't spin up or recognise the CD.
Does anyone have an idea that can help me out?
types.jksmurf said:
Hi k
My planning jobs for 7#+5V Raygulators in my CD63SE is:
1 rayregs for Xtal supply via RD01
1 rayregs for digital (DAC) via RD04
1 rayregs for digital (Decoder) via R508
1 rayregs for digital (servo) via R122
1 rayregs for analog (DAC) via U200
1 rayregs for analog (Decoder) via R511
1 rayregs for analog (Servo) via R123
This week I was hope to finishing this job and report the result.
Regards
aquar
MY CD-67SE died last night. Half-way through Portishead's 'Dummy' it spat the dummy.
As a mark of respect, I require all participants in this thread to wear black arm-bands for the next two days, and to observe a minute's silence upon reading this post.
It just stopped, as if some ghostly hand had pressed the stop button. Now it won't read discs. ERR 02 - FOCUS ERROR.
The thing is, I put a new laser in two months ago. Anyone ever had a new one go like this?
In service mode 01, the laser does not do any push-ups. The sledge and spin motors function when asked to.
I do detect some activity on the servo amp output. The outputs deflect away from the Vcc/2 when it tries to read a disc.
Brent - does this just sound like a duff mechanism to you? Seen new ones go bad that quick before?
I bought it from Grandata, and I noticed that it looked identical to a previous one I bought (now in a CD-63) but it does not have Philips on the label (still says VAM1202 though) or on the flexible print on the underside.
Thoughts?
As a mark of respect, I require all participants in this thread to wear black arm-bands for the next two days, and to observe a minute's silence upon reading this post.
It just stopped, as if some ghostly hand had pressed the stop button. Now it won't read discs. ERR 02 - FOCUS ERROR.
The thing is, I put a new laser in two months ago. Anyone ever had a new one go like this?
In service mode 01, the laser does not do any push-ups. The sledge and spin motors function when asked to.
I do detect some activity on the servo amp output. The outputs deflect away from the Vcc/2 when it tries to read a disc.
Brent - does this just sound like a duff mechanism to you? Seen new ones go bad that quick before?
I bought it from Grandata, and I noticed that it looked identical to a previous one I bought (now in a CD-63) but it does not have Philips on the label (still says VAM1202 though) or on the flexible print on the underside.
Thoughts?
shepperd said:
Fear not my friend. As I type, my soldering iron is warming up.
I still have the original CDM12.1. It played everything fine and never skipped, but had trouble with a few CD-R when jumping from one track to another it would just stop. That's why I put a new one in.
Re-installing the old one should tell if the problem is with the new mechanism or somewhere else....
I'm sure Brent has a fix for the old CDM12.1 problem anyway. Something about adjusting the grating, but I don't see anything adjustable.
Just thought I'd let you guys know I managed to resurrect my CD-67SE at the weekend.
Previously it had started to skip/repeat in tracks - or not recognize them until finally it died.
Putting a CD just showed "disc" - didn't recognize it.
Emboldened by reading this thread + others it could be that the laser sled had seized (lubricant dried up) - or something else.
Reading around showed that the sled was compatible with the
VAM1202 which I found on dalbani.com for $12.80
Minimum order was $20 - so I ordered 2
VAM1202* CD READER
QTY : 2
PRICE : $ 12.80
TOTAL : $ 25.60
<----------------------------------------------------------------->
SUBTOTAL : $ 25.60
SHIPPING : $ 4.18
HANDLING CHG: $ 2.50
ORDER TOTAL : $ 32.28
(EDIT - Yes it said Philips on it!)
On opening the CD player - solving the chinese puzzle that was the loading mechanism - I managed to extract the sled + look at the laser pickup.
On mine the covering on the magnet near the coils had become cracked / was breaking / peeling off - possibly the cause of the problem.
So I took photos / wrote down all the positions/colors of all the wires.
Desoldered the six wires in the sled (2 spin motor - 2 worm gear motor - 2 end of travel make/break switch - and unplugged the ribbon connector. Removed old sled - replaced with new sled. And re threaded wires.
Luckily the connector tabs all had holes in them, so I could thread/hook the wires through them - then solder them in place -
a bit too much heat from my ham-fisted efforts on the make/ brake contact melted the plastic a bit - but i re-melted it back into something approximating its original position - be careful here ! ,
and then re-inserted the ribbon connector (after a few attempts - access is somewhat constrained - and I wasn't about to go unscrewing the assembly)
Re situated the sled - placed back on rubber shock absorbers + then
re-seated it back in the loading mechanism.
Put top back on, plugged it in - and it worked first time!
It Lives! - It Lives!
Thanks guys (and the internet) for making me think such a thing was possible!
Previously it had started to skip/repeat in tracks - or not recognize them until finally it died.
Putting a CD just showed "disc" - didn't recognize it.
Emboldened by reading this thread + others it could be that the laser sled had seized (lubricant dried up) - or something else.
Reading around showed that the sled was compatible with the
VAM1202 which I found on dalbani.com for $12.80
Minimum order was $20 - so I ordered 2
VAM1202* CD READER
QTY : 2
PRICE : $ 12.80
TOTAL : $ 25.60
<----------------------------------------------------------------->
SUBTOTAL : $ 25.60
SHIPPING : $ 4.18
HANDLING CHG: $ 2.50
ORDER TOTAL : $ 32.28
(EDIT - Yes it said Philips on it!)
On opening the CD player - solving the chinese puzzle that was the loading mechanism - I managed to extract the sled + look at the laser pickup.
On mine the covering on the magnet near the coils had become cracked / was breaking / peeling off - possibly the cause of the problem.
So I took photos / wrote down all the positions/colors of all the wires.
Desoldered the six wires in the sled (2 spin motor - 2 worm gear motor - 2 end of travel make/break switch - and unplugged the ribbon connector. Removed old sled - replaced with new sled. And re threaded wires.
Luckily the connector tabs all had holes in them, so I could thread/hook the wires through them - then solder them in place -
a bit too much heat from my ham-fisted efforts on the make/ brake contact melted the plastic a bit - but i re-melted it back into something approximating its original position - be careful here ! ,
and then re-inserted the ribbon connector (after a few attempts - access is somewhat constrained - and I wasn't about to go unscrewing the assembly)
Re situated the sled - placed back on rubber shock absorbers + then
re-seated it back in the loading mechanism.
Put top back on, plugged it in - and it worked first time!
It Lives! - It Lives!
Thanks guys (and the internet) for making me think such a thing was possible!
Well I hope yours lasts longer than mine!
My original laser (see my last post) is now back in and my CD-67SE is singing again.
My brand-spanking-new VAM1202 lasted precisely 2 months.
I'm just thrilled it wasn't something more severe like a blown servo amp (though my previous measurements suggested the servo was OK).
I'd be interested if your new laser says Philips anywhere on it. Either on the box or the label on the back. Previous VAM1202s that I've ordered (from Grandata) for other players have all had Philips on the box, on the label, and on the flexible print. This did not have it anywhere.
Buyers beware! I'll post some pictures...
My original laser (see my last post) is now back in and my CD-67SE is singing again.
My brand-spanking-new VAM1202 lasted precisely 2 months.
I'm just thrilled it wasn't something more severe like a blown servo amp (though my previous measurements suggested the servo was OK).
I'd be interested if your new laser says Philips anywhere on it. Either on the box or the label on the back. Previous VAM1202s that I've ordered (from Grandata) for other players have all had Philips on the box, on the label, and on the flexible print. This did not have it anywhere.
Buyers beware! I'll post some pictures...