SimontY said:
Should we ask what that means??
My ar$e is twitching like 'Skippies' lips (the kangaroo) due to my nervousness
Brent
Re: Re: marant mod
Briefly, what are the audio pros and cons of Polypropylene film versus Polystyrene?
Regards,
Dan
😕
SimontY said:
Briefly, what are the audio pros and cons of Polypropylene film versus Polystyrene?
Regards,
Dan
😕
Really its down to the application. Your ears may like one more than the other too.
I used Silvered Mica
Edited due to typo
Brent
I used Silvered Mica
Edited due to typo
Brent
Re: Re: Re: marant mod
It's not worth getting bogged down with in my opinion. If you choose either you're onto a winner. Both are techincally good dielectrics and those who listen for improvements hear good results with these types of caps. Just so long as the signal isn't going through ceramic or electrolytic caps 😀
Simon
dantwomey said:
It's not worth getting bogged down with in my opinion. If you choose either you're onto a winner. Both are techincally good dielectrics and those who listen for improvements hear good results with these types of caps. Just so long as the signal isn't going through ceramic or electrolytic caps 😀
Simon
tms2000 said:
I doubt you can. No idea what Brent's talking about here, he's probably too excited about this football match to make much sense! 😉
BG NX is supposed to be good in the signal path i.e. DC blocking. Even better will be BG AC. I will be purchasing "AC" for my discrete board, and will use polystyrene for the filtering components there.
Simon
edit: I see Brent edited his post to say silver mica, hehe
Whilst we're talking about passive components... Yesterday I ordered a couple of 2w Kiwame and 1w Holco H2 resistors to try out. If there's any appreciable difference in sound quality I'll use the nicer sounding part on my discrete board.
Hi Ray/Andy,
Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.
Regards
aquar
Last nigh I replaced BC547C with a new one in the +12V raygulator and chek the wiring, it looks seem ok ,than I fitted in the CDP and voltage drop to +8.9 V (test before sitted +11.98V).
If I release opamp, the voltage normal in 11.98V, what wrong ?
BTW: for -12V stable in -11.67V.
Regards
aquar
aquar said:
Hi
What is the input voltage to the regulator when it is fitted?
Does the input voltage drop as well?
If not, something is drawing extra current causing the voltage drop. You need to look for a partial short or a solder bridge.
Andy
aquar said:
Hi
Check if the op amp is with the right orientation in the PCB and it is not burned...
Regards
aquar said:
Is it only doing it with one opamp or both? If it's only one then I would suggest it is faulty. Try fitting original opamps or any other opamps you may have laying around.
Brent
marantz 67 mods
Hi guys, replaced the parts as advised-thanks Simon-now the 67marantz making sweet music-unbelieveable. But i know there is more one can tweak to improve it
Things still to be done-78LM12/79LM12 replacement
-new low jitter clock
Where do i start to build a good beginer voltage regulator?(if there is such a thing)-Quan😀
Hi guys, replaced the parts as advised-thanks Simon-now the 67marantz making sweet music-unbelieveable. But i know there is more one can tweak to improve it
Things still to be done-78LM12/79LM12 replacement
-new low jitter clock
Where do i start to build a good beginer voltage regulator?(if there is such a thing)-Quan😀
Re: marantz 67 mods
Hi Quan,
Great news about your player! There's lots still to do and I highly recommend fitting a good clock!
I'm not sure if there's any easy to build regulator that is extremely low noise and impedance. You might be best buying one or trying to source a pcb for one and putting the parts on yourself to save money. Search this forum as there's loads of information about this kind of thing. Many here are using the LM317 with extra parts (aka Raygulator) but for the best sound I think you need something a bit more complex.
A cheap power supply upgrade you can try is separate regulators (can do this even with cheapo 7805 parts) for the DAC's digital, analogue and xtal reference pins. These can be shared with the ana and digi pins of the decoder chip too. This will not produce massive gains but it's well worth doing and very cheap.
Regards
Simon
quan said:
Hi Quan,
Great news about your player! There's lots still to do and I highly recommend fitting a good clock!
I'm not sure if there's any easy to build regulator that is extremely low noise and impedance. You might be best buying one or trying to source a pcb for one and putting the parts on yourself to save money. Search this forum as there's loads of information about this kind of thing. Many here are using the LM317 with extra parts (aka Raygulator) but for the best sound I think you need something a bit more complex.
A cheap power supply upgrade you can try is separate regulators (can do this even with cheapo 7805 parts) for the DAC's digital, analogue and xtal reference pins. These can be shared with the ana and digi pins of the decoder chip too. This will not produce massive gains but it's well worth doing and very cheap.
Regards
Simon
Hi Simon- what do you suggest for the clock_?elso?audiocom?tentlabs? I do understand that Elso does sell his kit- would this be reasonable place to start? i know it's hard to comment on tihs kind of things on a forum. Quan-how about a regulator?
I've no idea about other clocks as I've only heard Audiocom ones. I have once or twice seen comparisons and the Audiocom ones seem to come out on top, but at a price. If you want to spend less then the kit ones (Elso etc.) will be cheaper, but probably not quite as good.
Simon
Simon
rowemeister said:
You mean clocks surely! I think your own regulator design is better than the Audiocom Super Regs...
😉
