6h5c said:
Hi Aquar,
You can even use it without the (expensive) comparator and use a 22...47n cap to connect the signal to the DAC instead.
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray,
Do you mean like this ?
Attachments
I have updated my mods list slighty.
http://www.filesend.net/download.php?f=4ae9caa8694100c6c5cbe55c364a155d
Brent
http://www.filesend.net/download.php?f=4ae9caa8694100c6c5cbe55c364a155d
Brent
aquar said:
Hi Ray,
Do you mean like this ?
6h5c said:
Yep! Exactly like that.
I use a similar circuit but with an emitter follower buffer added.
I posted the circuit board pics a long (!) time ago.
Andy
I have fitted the Audiocom SC3 in place of the SC2 on the DAC.
At first it was more shut in than the sc2 but after an hour it has really opened up.
The details of the servo clock remain and have not been improved on. But the overall impact of the music is superb, bass has more depth and control with the mids flowing effortlessly. The sound has a more grown up feel.
Right back to auditioning
Brent
At first it was more shut in than the sc2 but after an hour it has really opened up.
The details of the servo clock remain and have not been improved on. But the overall impact of the music is superb, bass has more depth and control with the mids flowing effortlessly. The sound has a more grown up feel.
Right back to auditioning
Brent
rowemeister said:I have updated my mods list slighty.
http://www.filesend.net/download.php?f=4ae9caa8694100c6c5cbe55c364a155d
Brent
Hi Brent,
Tks you very much for your sharing, very great and helpfull.
Could you add schematic of ground star system?
Sorry with my English

Regards
aquar
6h5c said:
Well, it should be possible....
A combination of two red LEDs and a 1N4148 should get you pretty close to 5V: 1.6 + 1.6 + 0.65 + 1.25V. Or use a red and a green one, or a 3.9V zener and no extra diode. You can fine-tune the voltage with the value of the resistor between the output and ADJ pin. If you lower it a bit the voltage will go up because of the higher current and vice versa. I use E96 values to get the voltage I want, between 100...150 ohm is o.k.
Regards,
Ray
I have made raygulator 5V with resistor between output - adj pin 150 R, C1 = 1 uF (tantalum), C2 4.7 uF (tantalum) with results:
- Two green leds in seri (3.9 V) + 1.25 LM 317 = 5.15 V, and I got 5.35 V (DC input from car battery, 12.4 V, 60 Amp), no green light
- Two green leds in seri (3.9 V) + 1.25 LM 317 = 5.15 V, and I got 5.03 V (DC input form cdp, U161/10.3V), no green light.
Why the result is different? and no light from LED?
Best Regards
aquar
aquar said:
Hi Brent,
Tks you very much for your sharing, very great and helpfull.
Could you add schematic of ground star system?
Sorry with my English![]()
Regards
aquar
Hi aquar
There is no sch of the star ground. All I did was run ground wires from all my regulators , clocks and ic's to one point. For me this point was on a seperate pcb near the mains switch.
On other cd players I use the ground of capacitors C801/C802.
Here is a pic of my ground location. A bit blured but you get the idea.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
Have been listening to the system since upgrading the following caps with Black Gates:
C813-15, C611-614, CD15-16, C510-11, C120, C122, C153-54. i.e. pretty much copying Brent and Ray's documented upgrades.
I Squeezed 2 x 470uF BG's in the last two, but they are pointing away from each other at 45 degrees as there is not enough room.
Plus I put 51 ohm Shinkoh resistors between U210/214 and output.
I would have to say that there was a definite increase in smoothness and spaciousness. Perhaps a bit more detail as well. VERY enjoyable to listen to.
This weekend I plan to have a go at the separate power supplies. If I get the same step up as the last mod, I'll be very very happy.
I'll probably triple check with you all what I need to do to connect the supply to the PCB as I don't want to screw things up now!!!
Thanks for everyones help to date,
Simon (Oz)
C813-15, C611-614, CD15-16, C510-11, C120, C122, C153-54. i.e. pretty much copying Brent and Ray's documented upgrades.
I Squeezed 2 x 470uF BG's in the last two, but they are pointing away from each other at 45 degrees as there is not enough room.
Plus I put 51 ohm Shinkoh resistors between U210/214 and output.
I would have to say that there was a definite increase in smoothness and spaciousness. Perhaps a bit more detail as well. VERY enjoyable to listen to.
This weekend I plan to have a go at the separate power supplies. If I get the same step up as the last mod, I'll be very very happy.
I'll probably triple check with you all what I need to do to connect the supply to the PCB as I don't want to screw things up now!!!
Thanks for everyones help to date,
Simon (Oz)
I only did the small mods ... and that was a difference in sound already.
I just had the notification that the new OPAMPS are on the way. YAY !
Hoping I'll get a notification from the guys at Acoustica for the Flea PCB asap too.
I just had the notification that the new OPAMPS are on the way. YAY !
Hoping I'll get a notification from the guys at Acoustica for the Flea PCB asap too.
Hi YoungSC
Excellent stuff mate. Another who likes the BG effect. These will take a good week to fully run in too.
Brent
Excellent stuff mate. Another who likes the BG effect. These will take a good week to fully run in too.
Brent
Could you (or someone) post the values of the C813-15, C611-614, CD15-16, C510-11, C120, C122, C153-54 caps you replaced ?
This is something I would like to do aswell.
This is something I would like to do aswell.
rowemeister said:Usually either 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF. The latter is better though!
Brent
ALL of them the same value ?
TDLofCC said:
ALL of them the same value ?
Err I miss read some of the refs
C813-815 dont need changing if you are going to run seperate regs. If you are not running seperate regs then match the values with better caps.
C611-614 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
CD15 - 16 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C510 and C508 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C120 - C122 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
CD04 - CD07 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C153 154 etc better pana fc will do. I dropped silmics in here on mine
Brent
Cheers. One last question though.
I found the BG caps ... but there it says Standard and (rough translation from dutch) non-polair.
The standards are €4, the non-polair are €14
Which ones do I need ?
I found the BG caps ... but there it says Standard and (rough translation from dutch) non-polair.
The standards are €4, the non-polair are €14
Which ones do I need ?
rowemeister said:
Err I miss read some of the refs
C813-815 dont need changing if you are going to run seperate regs. If you are not running seperate regs then match the values with better caps.
C611-614 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
CD15 - 16 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C510 and C508 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C120 - C122 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
CD04 - CD07 16V 220uF or 16V 470uF
C153 154 etc better pana fc will do. I dropped silmics in here on mine
Brent
aquar said:I have made raygulator 5V with resistor between output - adj pin 150 R, C1 = 1 uF (tantalum), C2 4.7 uF (tantalum) with results:
- Two green leds in seri (3.9 V) + 1.25 LM 317 = 5.15 V, and I got 5.35 V (DC input from car battery, 12.4 V, 60 Amp), no green light
- Two green leds in seri (3.9 V) + 1.25 LM 317 = 5.15 V, and I got 5.03 V (DC input form cdp, U161/10.3V), no green light.
Why the result is different? and no light from LED?
Best Regards
aquar
Hi Aquar,
Hm, that's not right. The output voltage should be constant, independent of the input voltage. Are you sure you used the correct pinning of the regulator (ADJ - OUT - IN for LM317)? With 150 ohm there's over 8mA going through the LEDs, should be plenty to make them light. Something is probably not connected properly.
Regards,
Ray
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