Brent, do you mean you'll be running two separate clocks?
You might get some intermittent bleeps and squeaks if so, because they won't run exactly in step and so the set-up/hold times for data from the servo/decoder to the dac will get corrupted now and again.
Will be interested to hear how this one turns out, anyway
You might get some intermittent bleeps and squeaks if so, because they won't run exactly in step and so the set-up/hold times for data from the servo/decoder to the dac will get corrupted now and again.
Will be interested to hear how this one turns out, anyway
martin clark said:Brent, do you mean you'll be running two separate clocks?
You might get some intermittent bleeps and squeaks if so, because they won't run exactly in step and so the set-up/hold times for data from the servo/decoder to the dac will get corrupted now and again.
Will be interested to hear how this one turns out, anyway
Wow, that would be really cool! (But seriously annoying too, of course)
martin clark said:Brent, do you mean you'll be running two separate clocks?
You might get some intermittent bleeps and squeaks if so, because they won't run exactly in step and so the set-up/hold times for data from the servo/decoder to the dac will get corrupted now and again.
Will be interested to hear how this one turns out, anyway
Yes 2 clocks. The standard player has two xtals. If it's poo i'll pop the divide circuit back in and sell spare clock. But I reckon it will be fine , i've thrown everything at this baby and she keeps on getting better.
Brent
martin clark said:
When I "wrote-off" my CD player, almost a year ago now, I sent it to Brent. He rebuilt it and did the servo clock mod with flipflop divider circuit.
It came back with realistic treble. The first time I've heard realistic treble out of it.
And the treble from Brent's with all his super servo regs and precision parts....is sublime!
And to try and qualify my last statement to some extent, I will mention a recent listening experience.
I was waiting for Autoglass to replace a window of my car, and while waiting I popped into a local hi-fi shop. I was offered a cup of tea and a listening session with their current setup, when I showed an interest.
The speakers were, I believe, B&W 803s. The CD player was a new Rega Saturn, a cool top-loading beast. The amp was 30+ watts of class A, and built like a tank.
The sound was quite poor overall, mostly due to room acoustics, but in some areas I was quite impressed. Every time it was quiet (eg. song fading out) it sounded "nice" and very detailed. But the dynamics were poor, the bass was lacking and sheer enjoyment wasn't as good as I'd hoped for. I know this all points to room acoustics, but I couldn't help wondering how matters might improve if they used my modded cd63 or even better Brent's monster.
Of course I told them their room was rubbish. They took it well but said "it's better than a lot of demo rooms!" And they raved about this new CD player, but I wondered...
Now I have really lost my faith in standard commercial gear! If £7k of kit in a generally "hi-end" shop doesn't impress me then I need to go all DIY!!! This is the moral of the story: mod it all to hell!!!
I offered to bring my player in to show them what it's all about but my kind offer was rejected!
Has anyone on this thread had a chance to compare their pride and joy with standard hi-fi shop fare?
Simon
ps - I'd like to say Moorgate Acoustics in Sheffield *is* an excellent hi-fi shop, with friendly and knowledgeable staff. If they spent a few hundred on some diffusers and corner bass absorbers they might have a good sound to match.
I was waiting for Autoglass to replace a window of my car, and while waiting I popped into a local hi-fi shop. I was offered a cup of tea and a listening session with their current setup, when I showed an interest.
The speakers were, I believe, B&W 803s. The CD player was a new Rega Saturn, a cool top-loading beast. The amp was 30+ watts of class A, and built like a tank.
The sound was quite poor overall, mostly due to room acoustics, but in some areas I was quite impressed. Every time it was quiet (eg. song fading out) it sounded "nice" and very detailed. But the dynamics were poor, the bass was lacking and sheer enjoyment wasn't as good as I'd hoped for. I know this all points to room acoustics, but I couldn't help wondering how matters might improve if they used my modded cd63 or even better Brent's monster.
Of course I told them their room was rubbish. They took it well but said "it's better than a lot of demo rooms!" And they raved about this new CD player, but I wondered...
Now I have really lost my faith in standard commercial gear! If £7k of kit in a generally "hi-end" shop doesn't impress me then I need to go all DIY!!! This is the moral of the story: mod it all to hell!!!
I offered to bring my player in to show them what it's all about but my kind offer was rejected!
Has anyone on this thread had a chance to compare their pride and joy with standard hi-fi shop fare?
Simon
ps - I'd like to say Moorgate Acoustics in Sheffield *is* an excellent hi-fi shop, with friendly and knowledgeable staff. If they spent a few hundred on some diffusers and corner bass absorbers they might have a good sound to match.
Hi all,
I have a lot of read this topics, very nice and interested.
I have mod my cd63se, replace op amp (opa 132 & opa 627),replace caps around opamp with silver mica and Pana FC (for dec.), By pass HDAM, release muting trans, replace diode with scotky, clock hack, place bitumen sheet and added some tiny caps to bypass electrolit caps..........I'm glad with the result.
In the week end I have planing to make 5 V regs for dedicated suply an.DAC &Servo, dig DAC & Servo and clock in the dedicated pcb but confused with many schema : Raygulator(BC 547C/LM 317), kwak clock 7 (BC 550C/TL 431) or simple schema from LM 317 manual.
What is I prefer ? (lowest noise)
I have many axial inductors but I don't have ferrite beads (very difficult to find electronics stuff in my place), for alternative I turn 20 times tiny wire enameled and paralel with 1 ohm resistor for dumping, am I in the right way ?
I hope you will be read my English, I'm so sorry
rgds
aquar
I have a lot of read this topics, very nice and interested.
I have mod my cd63se, replace op amp (opa 132 & opa 627),replace caps around opamp with silver mica and Pana FC (for dec.), By pass HDAM, release muting trans, replace diode with scotky, clock hack, place bitumen sheet and added some tiny caps to bypass electrolit caps..........I'm glad with the result.
In the week end I have planing to make 5 V regs for dedicated suply an.DAC &Servo, dig DAC & Servo and clock in the dedicated pcb but confused with many schema : Raygulator(BC 547C/LM 317), kwak clock 7 (BC 550C/TL 431) or simple schema from LM 317 manual.
What is I prefer ? (lowest noise)
I have many axial inductors but I don't have ferrite beads (very difficult to find electronics stuff in my place), for alternative I turn 20 times tiny wire enameled and paralel with 1 ohm resistor for dumping, am I in the right way ?
I hope you will be read my English, I'm so sorry
rgds
aquar
jksmurf said:
Thats correct, it also gets the regs and caps closer to the dac pins that they are supplying.
The way that Brent has advised you to fit the +/-12v regs nearer the op-amps is right. I haven't tried using seperate regs to supply each op-amp yet but I will be fitting 4 audiocom super-regs to supply the op-amps in my own CD63KI soon, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Cheers,
Mags.
SimontY said:
Hi Simon.
I've modded a few players in the past for other people, one guy replaced his Unico tube CD player (around £1500) for a moderately uprated (compared with some here!) CD67SE, it was fully recapped with BG's and Rubycon ZA/ZL caps, AD826 op-amps, Super-clock 2 with it's own supply, 5 extra regs for the dac and decoder etc etc.
Cheers,
Mags.
My Super clock 3 has arrived and i've been testing it on the freq counter and comparing it to the Super clock 2b.
The counter is a fluke 10 digit counter and very accurate.
The SC2 is stable to 8 digits but the SC3 is stable to 9 digits.
IE - 16.93437626 with only the last two digits moving about on SC3
& 16.93430396 with the last 3 digits moving on SC2
It doesn't prove anything sonically yet but shows its ppm stability is superior
Now off to convert clock 2b to 8.46Mhz
Brent
The counter is a fluke 10 digit counter and very accurate.
The SC2 is stable to 8 digits but the SC3 is stable to 9 digits.
IE - 16.93437626 with only the last two digits moving about on SC3
& 16.93430396 with the last 3 digits moving on SC2
It doesn't prove anything sonically yet but shows its ppm stability is superior
Now off to convert clock 2b to 8.46Mhz
Brent
Hi guys
Could somebody please upload a schematic for that DIY clock for the CD63? It's on one of the pics at the www.raylectronics.nl
Could somebody please upload a schematic for that DIY clock for the CD63? It's on one of the pics at the www.raylectronics.nl
-12V Super Raygulators
For those who have built the -12V Super Raygulators (and those who haven't but have the skills).
When I built the +5V version, I had to add an extra 1N4148 diode to bring the voltage up to 5V. The 3.3V Zeners + 1.25V LM317 + 0.7V 1N4148 was only giving about 4.25V where on paper they were adding up to 4.95V. The reason appeared to be an extra current requirement. I assume that's why Ray suggested a heatsink.
When I made the 12V version, I used 10V Zener + 1.25V LM317 + 0.7V 1N4148 and got exactly 12V, so the current requirements weren't as demanding as the 5V version.
Now when I make the -12V version, I used 10V Zener + 1.25V LM337 + 0.7V 1N4148 which should again give about -12V, but I'm only reading -8.2V.
I checked that I have hooked it up correctly and am fairly certain I have. The only doubt would be the BC557 transistor, but I got the pin ID's from the suppliers data sheet.
I read 7.95V across the Zeners, 0.55V across the 1N4148 and 1.45V against ground on the LM337. Does the -12V version use more current like the 5V version? Or could one of the components have burnt out?
Your help is appreciated.
Simon (Oz)
For those who have built the -12V Super Raygulators (and those who haven't but have the skills).
When I built the +5V version, I had to add an extra 1N4148 diode to bring the voltage up to 5V. The 3.3V Zeners + 1.25V LM317 + 0.7V 1N4148 was only giving about 4.25V where on paper they were adding up to 4.95V. The reason appeared to be an extra current requirement. I assume that's why Ray suggested a heatsink.
When I made the 12V version, I used 10V Zener + 1.25V LM317 + 0.7V 1N4148 and got exactly 12V, so the current requirements weren't as demanding as the 5V version.
Now when I make the -12V version, I used 10V Zener + 1.25V LM337 + 0.7V 1N4148 which should again give about -12V, but I'm only reading -8.2V.
I checked that I have hooked it up correctly and am fairly certain I have. The only doubt would be the BC557 transistor, but I got the pin ID's from the suppliers data sheet.
I read 7.95V across the Zeners, 0.55V across the 1N4148 and 1.45V against ground on the LM337. Does the -12V version use more current like the 5V version? Or could one of the components have burnt out?
Your help is appreciated.
Simon (Oz)
Simon,
What value resistor are you using between the output and adj pin?
It should be 100...120 ohm to make sure there's enough current running through the diodes. The voltage of a 3.3V zener will drop when the current is too small. Just 4.25V is very low for a 3.3V + 0.7V + 1.25V combination, it should be over 5V. Check the voltage drop across each individual component to see if it's connected properly. With the negative version, make sure to reverse the polarity of the zener and diodes (and the caps on the input and output...).
Regards,
Ray
What value resistor are you using between the output and adj pin?
It should be 100...120 ohm to make sure there's enough current running through the diodes. The voltage of a 3.3V zener will drop when the current is too small. Just 4.25V is very low for a 3.3V + 0.7V + 1.25V combination, it should be over 5V. Check the voltage drop across each individual component to see if it's connected properly. With the negative version, make sure to reverse the polarity of the zener and diodes (and the caps on the input and output...).
Regards,
Ray
aquar said:
Hi Aquar,
It's hard to say which regulator will be the best. The XO-supply and the super-Raygulator are both suitable for the job I think. My technical instinct says for a clock the low-noise is most important, and for feeding the DAC etc. a high rejection ratio is preferred. So maybe the Super-Ray-reg with the LM317 (which on its own already has >80dB) is the best choice for feeding the DAC and servo chips.
Anyone willing to elaborate/debunk the above
?BTW, your english is fine
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray,
Tks a lot for your quick reply.
Actually I have made a few of 5V regulator with many of schematics......desperate
, never found accurate 5V (4.2 V or 5.2 V) even many of combination in the adj. pin with zener,resistor and green Led I have done.
I have a few of axial inductor but ferrite beads is a 'stranger stuff' in my place, so I made simple inductor - 20 turns of enamelled thin wire and paralel with 1 ohm resistor for alternative.
What I prefer ? axial inductor without ferrite beads or simple inductor for replace resistor in the rail supply
Regards
aquar
Tks a lot for your quick reply.
Actually I have made a few of 5V regulator with many of schematics......desperate
, never found accurate 5V (4.2 V or 5.2 V) even many of combination in the adj. pin with zener,resistor and green Led I have done.I have a few of axial inductor but ferrite beads is a 'stranger stuff' in my place, so I made simple inductor - 20 turns of enamelled thin wire and paralel with 1 ohm resistor for alternative.
What I prefer ? axial inductor without ferrite beads or simple inductor for replace resistor in the rail supply
Regards
aquar
aquar said:Hi Ray,
Tks a lot for your quick reply.
Actually I have made a few of 5V regulator with many of schematics......desperate
I have a few of axial inductor but ferrite beads is a 'stranger stuff' in my place, so I made simple inductor - 20 turns of enamelled thin wire and paralel with 1 ohm resistor for alternative.
What I prefer ? axial inductor without ferrite beads or simple inductor for replace resistor in the rail supply
Regards
aquar
Well, it should be possible....
A combination of two red LEDs and a 1N4148 should get you pretty close to 5V: 1.6 + 1.6 + 0.65 + 1.25V. Or use a red and a green one, or a 3.9V zener and no extra diode. You can fine-tune the voltage with the value of the resistor between the output and ADJ pin. If you lower it a bit the voltage will go up because of the higher current and vice versa. I use E96 values to get the voltage I want, between 100...150 ohm is o.k.
Your 'home-made' inductors should work fine, as long as the resistance is less than the original resistor. The ferrite beads are not strictly nescessary, if you don't have them it's no big deal. They are more of the 'it won't hurt to put them in there' kind of thing.
YoungSC said:
Yes, it should, but I find it strange that the voltage is that low. The current is about 10mA with a 120 ohm resistor, and that should be more than enough for the zener to develop a decent 3.3V or 10V. The fact that your positive version works ok indicates this also. Try an output cap (or a bigger one) on the negative regulator. Most negative regs are less stable than their positive brothers. When I build one on a breadboard and leave out the output cap because i'm lazy I get the same effect sometimes.
Regards,
Ray