rowemeister said:
Quite! And if like me you're very poor, you'll want to know where to spend the most money. If you buy only one, single low-noise regulator, install it on the add-on clock!!! This will make the most difference IMO. Otherwise make it 5v and power the DAC and decoder's analogue pins. Maybe that is number 2
The clock, that is one of the last things I'm going to change.
I just received word from Martin @ Acoustica that they are going to make a new batch of Flea PCBs ... I want to install one of those.
But no hurry there, I already like the way the CD player is performing now. It can only get better, new opamps are also on the way. I already installed IC feet, so I can eaily change them.
I just received word from Martin @ Acoustica that they are going to make a new batch of Flea PCBs ... I want to install one of those.
But no hurry there, I already like the way the CD player is performing now. It can only get better, new opamps are also on the way. I already installed IC feet, so I can eaily change them.
TDLofCC said:
I would do clock as one of the first mods. The clock controls the dac and decoder (servo in 67 too). Lots of things rely on the clock which means other mods (the ones we mainly focus on) are not working to their true potential. In some cases the clock may make a choice of cap etc you chose not to be the best in that situation
I always start at source and work through. Yes the DAC has two sources in a way lol
Brent
Yeah ... I know I should have done the clock first, but since it is quite an expensive mod I had to look for cheaper alternatives.
And now I found the Flea. Which is alot cheaper than the Tent Clock.
And in my waiting time I wanted to do SOMETHING with the CD player, so I just did some (pre) mods
I truly can't wait until the moment I add the new Opamps and Clock
And now I found the Flea. Which is alot cheaper than the Tent Clock.
And in my waiting time I wanted to do SOMETHING with the CD player, so I just did some (pre) mods
I truly can't wait until the moment I add the new Opamps and Clock
YoungSC said:
Here's my crack at the 12V one ... (for comments - The bit about soldering across still needs work... feel free to modify!) would love to see the 5V one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's what I got from Bravura (Mags) at another forum for the 5V ones. Wife is a bit nervous about replacing a Cap with a Regulator though...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
k.
Its been quite a while since i last logged in and the posts really accelerate fast
Simon can i check with u on to carry out this
"1 - Reclock DAC and servo"
If you buy only one, single low-noise regulator, install it on the add-on clock
how do we relcok the dac and servo?
where is the add on clock from any specs of one, and to purchase the regulators.
I have yet to touch on the led which i wanted to install, would u happened to open up ur cdp and know which point it is and the value of the resistors to use.
Marcus
Simon can i check with u on to carry out this
"1 - Reclock DAC and servo"
If you buy only one, single low-noise regulator, install it on the add-on clock
how do we relcok the dac and servo?
where is the add on clock from any specs of one, and to purchase the regulators.
I have yet to touch on the led which i wanted to install, would u happened to open up ur cdp and know which point it is and the value of the resistors to use.
Marcus
Coax Mod for the Dummy
My amps warming up (has to it's got tubes after all) so I thought I'd say that I just installed the coax from U100 to R501.
I took some pictures, but I've just looked at them and they're all blurry. Now the lid is back on so it's not going to happen
Thanks for the coaching, when I turned on the power, everything worked through my Home Theatre amp.
Must fly now, listening to do.
Simon (Oz)
My amps warming up (has to it's got tubes after all) so I thought I'd say that I just installed the coax from U100 to R501.
I took some pictures, but I've just looked at them and they're all blurry. Now the lid is back on so it's not going to happen
Thanks for the coaching, when I turned on the power, everything worked through my Home Theatre amp.
Must fly now, listening to do.
Simon (Oz)
jksmurf said:
HI jksmurf.
The caps CD04 and CD07 should not be replaced with regs, they are moved to positions CD05 and CD06 and bypassed with SMD 100nf caps on the dac pins (if you use BG's then don't bother with the bypass caps). This leaves positions CD04 and CD07 vacant so you can insert your new +5v regs here. If your using standard 3 pin regs (LM7805 AN8005) you can solder the new regs under the board for a nice clean look.
You can use positions R613 and R616 to insert the +/-12v regs but you can also give each op-amp it's own regulators by inserting +12v regs into positions R613 and R614, then take a +20v feed from C803 to each of these regs. Insert -12v regs in positions R615 and R616 and take a -20v feed from C804. Also remove jumpers U214/U215 and U228/U229, if your not using the HDAM also remove R651/R652/R653/R654.
Cheers,
Mags.
marcusdeming said:
Hi Marcus,
"Reclocking" in the sense I had in mind means buying an off-the-shelf clock module (Audiocom, Tent etc.) and installing it as per their instructions. It's simple, it just involves unsoldering the crystal, the two small ceramic caps next to it, and the 1M resistor there too. Then you just attach a couple of wires from the clock board to where crystal came from.
If you have a CD67 that's all you have to do. If you have a CD63 you need to install a "divider circuit" to halve the clock frequency to ~8mhz in order to feed the servo from a high precision clock output. This mod is important for detail and proper treble. But it is not for beginners to install.
The clock frequency is the main spec you need, and the frequency is 16.93xxMhz. It needs it's own power and this can be taken from a variety of points in the player but is best served by it's own psu and low noise regulator. Simplest and economical is to buy an Audiocom Super reg from Ebay UK. Of course Brent's is even better but more pricey.
As for the LED resistors, I can't remember. It will be on Brent's mod list: http://www.eurolinkcourses.co.uk/simon/ROWEMEISTERS CD63 KI MODS.rar
Cheers,
Simon
regarding Bretts digital coax mod.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1133970#post1133970
Does it need to be 50 ohm, 75 ohm or does it not matter?
Shouldnt a terminating resistor be used for the correct cable impeadance, where should it go and what value?
cheers arthur
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1133970#post1133970
Does it need to be 50 ohm, 75 ohm or does it not matter?
Shouldnt a terminating resistor be used for the correct cable impeadance, where should it go and what value?
cheers arthur
Hi Mags, thanks for getting back, so what you are saying is that the Caps are still used, we're just sticking Regs in the "rail" that leads up to them (or from them)? i.e. it's just a "convenient spot" in the rail to PUTMags said:
them?
Will be using Super Raygulators...
I guess my Query for this one is more that I have seen Superegs at 78M12 and 79M12, so this particular +12V/-12V reg application is an ALTERNATIVE to that? i.e. I REMOVE those EXISTING REGS?
http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=12vregsatopampscd67de3.jpg
CHeers
k.
I've not touched my cd player for roughly 6 months. But i'm going to tweek it. The SuperClock IIb is being replaced with a Superclock 3 and audiocom are sending me the xtal and cap to convert my clock IIb to 8.46MHz. I will now remove my divide by 2 circuit and plop the clock IIb in place (just to uber things up a bit more).
Hopefully I should have them by monday. I'm really interested to hear the difference.
Brent
Hopefully I should have them by monday. I'm really interested to hear the difference.
Brent