Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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#5,401
YoungSC said:
Thanks Pete,

If I use the formula in the datasheet and apply it to the resistor values in the Super-Raygulators I get 1.25(1+1500/120) = 16.875 Vout

This is where I'm getting confused becuase there should be 12Vout.😕

However, if I use the resistor values in the first Raygulators then I get the following 1.25(1+1050/120) = 12.1875 Vout

This is more like it. 😀 😀

Now does that mean that R1 in the Super-Raygulators is incorrectly labelled 1.5k instead on 1.05k, or does the sum of my knowledge equal very little? 🙂

If the formula above works for the Super-Raygulators, and I want to get 5 Vout, then my calculations show that I want a 3:1 ratio for R1:R2. Am I better off using the lowest resistors I can find, or just go for a pair such as 300 ohm and 100 ohm?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The Raygulator is the plain LM317/337 implementation as on the data sheet. The o/p voltage is the ratio of the divider resistors, +1, x 1.25V. So, say (1+ (360/120)) x 1.25 = 5V

The Super Raygulator, the resistor between o/p and adj pin has no bearing on the voltage. The voltage is the drop across the diodes + 1.25V (I believe - though not 100% sure). The other resistor is part of the gyrator.

Does this help?
 
#5,402
Correct, the LM3xx will maintain 1.25v over the resistor placed between output and adjust. And with the zeners and the diode the adjust pin is 10v + 0.7v up, hence the output will be 10.7v + 1.25v = 11.95v.

The 1k5 - 4u7 and the transistor is the gyrator,
 
#5,404
avr300 said:
Correct, the LM3xx will maintain 1.25v over the resistor placed between output and adjust. And with the zeners and the diode the adjust pin is 10v + 0.7v up, hence the output will be 10.7v + 1.25v = 11.95v.

The 1k5 - 4u7 and the transistor is the gyrator,
Click to expand...

Alright, so for 5V I keep all the components the same except the Zener diodes. The LM317 will provide 1.25V, the 1N4148 will provide 0.7V, so I need to changethe 2 Zener diodes to 3V to get:

1.25 + 0.7 + 3 = 4.95V

Am I correct?

Sorry to labour the point, but I want to be sure, and I bet there are other people who will find this useful.

Thanks
 
#5,408
so for 5V I keep all the components the same except the Zener diodes. The LM317 will provide 1.25V, the 1N4148 will provide 0.7V, so I need to changethe 2 Zener diodes to 3V to get:

1.25 + 0.7 + 3 = 4.95V

Am I correct?
Click to expand...
Spot-on! Or you could use an LED with a forward voltage of 3.0v, if you want visual indication of the thing working. Some blue/white LEds are in this range , IIRC.

Note that with the the exact voltage you'll get out depends on the current through the diode (zeners typically have 10-30ohms resistance at c.5mA) and to a lesser extent, temperature (they drift as they warm-up) - but don't worry about it.
 
#5,410
Re: Re: Re: DIYAUDIO.com Audiofest and Swapmeet - UK

poynton said:



OOOH!!!!


http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94337


This one works.


Andy


PS Simon.
Know any suitable venues UP NORTH ?
Click to expand...

That link does indeed work, thanks Andy.

I'm not sure what a suitable venue is to be honest, I've never done any kind of meetup, except meeting Brent and hearing his kit! I will post on that thread to keep the off-topic-ness away.

Simon
 
#5,411
Hey everyone, ive been away from the forum for a while, but I had something very strange happen. I had given up on modding my cd67 when it died on me a few months back. I put it away and descided to take a look last weekend, I plugged it in and to my surprise its working! Very strange. Ive never had an audio compnent come back to life🙂 Im glad to be back, its time to get this old cd67 sounding good🙂 Can you guys point me in the direction of the latest list of mods for the cd67.
thanks
Frank
 
#5,412
martin clark said:
Spot-on! Or you could use an LED with a forward voltage of 3.0v, if you want visual indication of the thing working. Some blue/white LEds are in this range , IIRC.

Note that with the the exact voltage you'll get out depends on the current through the diode (zeners typically have 10-30ohms resistance at c.5mA) and to a lesser extent, temperature (they drift as they warm-up) - but don't worry about it.
Click to expand...

Always check with a DMM before connecting. We don't want to be held responsible for blowing up your TentXO or DAC. 😉

Simon, you earlier talked about "your private jazz club". Do you know the music of Patricia Barber ?
 
#5,416
Off topic :xeye:

Any one on here want to by a £200 RCA for £80 to upgrade their listening pleasures.

This cable really brings out what you have done to your cd player.

Cable talk 'The Reference' 1M fitted with Bullets

Crystal copper , cotton filled

Its the best cable they have ever made , apparently they made this cable for Exposure.

Come on Get it fitted to your cdp (you know you want to).

Selling due to an upgrade to Russ Andrews Kimber Crystal Ag.

Brent
 
#5,417
martin clark said:
Spot-on! Or you could use an LED with a forward voltage of 3.0v, if you want visual indication of the thing working. Some blue/white LEds are in this range , IIRC.

Note that with the the exact voltage you'll get out depends on the current through the diode (zeners typically have 10-30ohms resistance at c.5mA) and to a lesser extent, temperature (they drift as they warm-up) - but don't worry about it.
Click to expand...


Yay!!! Thankyou!!!

Buying Reg parts tomorrow
 
#5,419
avr300 said:



Who else have ever claimed having their own Jazz club at home ? 😀

Yes, you SimonY. Try "Nightclub" http://www.patriciabarber.com/discs/nightclub.htm

It's really close-up female vocal with very little dynamic compression.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll see if I can buy it cheaply next time I'm near my favourite music shop, or Ebay.

Did I really say I had my own private jazz club? lol. I guess I did :razz:

My jazz replicating CD player is not spinning discs at anything less than 9000000rpm at the moment. I just finished work on seperating power supplies for the regulators which feed analogue, digital and clock reference (DAC and decoder 5v feeds basically). I plugged it in and heard about 5 seconds of the Human League....then I knocked something and it all went pear shaped. Probably just a voltage rail not connected! It was late, we will see.

Simon
 
#5,420
I have been following this thread for a while now and have done mods to my cd53 and im currently working on a cd67. My cd67 is only lightly modded right now, bypass hdam, opa2132, upgraded 470uf/16v Rubycon ZL caps for the dac, clock and opamps, and inductor+ferrite for the voltage feed for the dac and clock circuits. I plan on doing more extensive mods in the near future. But I am interested in possibly adding a digital input for this cd67, id like to use my PC as the transport instead of the cd67s cd mechanism. Would this be possible at all???
 
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