Hi Kenny,
But, the guys here would probably prefer if you started a new thread or tacked it on the end of an existing appropriate thread.
Fuse types, cable size & type, connections, sockets, ring, star, fannout?
details would be nice.I've also wired back to a dedicated hifi circuit on my distribution board with shielded mains cable. Highly recommended upgrade if you can do it.
But, the guys here would probably prefer if you started a new thread or tacked it on the end of an existing appropriate thread.
Fuse types, cable size & type, connections, sockets, ring, star, fannout?
Re: Hello
LOL I like that, my head will swell 😉
Brent
kennyr said:Hi Guys
63KI modified by his godness the rowemeister
LOL I like that, my head will swell 😉
Brent
Attenuation debate
Hi Guys,
I'm also using some attenuation, in may case purely to get some useable adjustment in volume. I have the attenuation in the input of the amp rather than in my CD.
Based on the advice here (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/diyattenuation.xls) the idea seems to be to match the size of the resistors based on the amp impedance. This gives much higher values than those user by Rowemeister (I'm using 10k and 2K2). Is this advice wrong? Is it better to use the lower values?
Regards
Pete
Hi Guys,
I'm also using some attenuation, in may case purely to get some useable adjustment in volume. I have the attenuation in the input of the amp rather than in my CD.
Based on the advice here (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/diyattenuation.xls) the idea seems to be to match the size of the resistors based on the amp impedance. This gives much higher values than those user by Rowemeister (I'm using 10k and 2K2). Is this advice wrong? Is it better to use the lower values?
Regards
Pete
Re: Attenuation debate
I've tried both high values and low values and both perform equally well. I used lower values as its at the cdp end for test purposes - it will be ripped out soon and a nice attenuated Kimber cable will be purchased.
I would have thought the amp end is the best end to fit the attenuator.
Brent
Chivvyp said:Hi Guys,
I'm also using some attenuation, in may case purely to get some useable adjustment in volume. I have the attenuation in the input of the amp rather than in my CD.
Based on the advice here (http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/diyattenuation.xls) the idea seems to be to match the size of the resistors based on the amp impedance. This gives much higher values than those user by Rowemeister (I'm using 10k and 2K2). Is this advice wrong? Is it better to use the lower values?
Regards
Pete
I've tried both high values and low values and both perform equally well. I used lower values as its at the cdp end for test purposes - it will be ripped out soon and a nice attenuated Kimber cable will be purchased.
I would have thought the amp end is the best end to fit the attenuator.
Brent
I have used attenuation from the output of the cd63, mainly for space considerations, however, how come no one just lowers the output on the remote ?
Is there something im missing here, as i would think that lowering the output was better than introducing anything in the signalpath.
Dennis
Is there something im missing here, as i would think that lowering the output was better than introducing anything in the signalpath.
Dennis
ImSparticus said:I have used attenuation from the output of the cd63, mainly for space considerations, however, how come no one just lowers the output on the remote ?
Is there something im missing here, as i would think that lowering the output was better than introducing anything in the signalpath.
Dennis
Tried that. I find the sound is compressed and lacking spacialness.
Brent
ImSparticus said:I have used attenuation from the output of the cd63, mainly for space considerations, however, how come no one just lowers the output on the remote ?
Is there something im missing here, as i would think that lowering the output was better than introducing anything in the signalpath.
Dennis
The lowered output on the CD is reset when switched off. If you forget you can get a bit of a wake-up when you first use it again.

Pete
Chivvyp said:
The lowered output on the CD is reset when switched off. If you forget you can get a bit of a wake-up when you first use it again.![]()
Pete
LOL 😀
Brent
ImSparticus said:
Is there something im missing here, as i would think that lowering the output was better than introducing anything in the signalpath.
Sounds warm and fuzzy, lacking in resolution/clarity. It's not so good.
Simon
The attenuation is done in the digital domain, by truncating bits.how come no one just lowers the output on the remote ?
Is there something im missing here,
Depending on the actual performance of the NPC dac, at -20dB you'll be about 3bits short - ie down to 13-bit sound. That's where the fuzzyness comes from...
That was a lot of replies in a short space of time LOL, well ill bang my attenuators back in tonight and see how it sounds, previously i couldnt tell the difference. I only have the -10dB, ill see if i can get the -14dB. Mine are source end for space behind the player as the amp was a bit cramped.
I havnt tried the attenuators since all my mods and i still have plenty to do.
Dennis
I havnt tried the attenuators since all my mods and i still have plenty to do.
Dennis
I have -10dB goldenjacks attenuators source end, any recomendations, could of sworn i seen -14 db recommended ?
Den
Den
ImSparticus said:I have -10dB goldenjacks attenuators source end, any recomendations, could of sworn i seen -14 db recommended ?
Den
According to Russ Andrews its....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
martin clark said:The attenuation is done in the digital domain, by truncating bits.
Depending on the actual performance of the NPC dac, at -20dB you'll be about 3bits short - ie down to 13-bit sound. That's where the fuzzyness comes from...
One bit less than an old Philips CD104 from '84. 😀
No, that's not the way to do it.
avr300 said:
One bit less than an old Philips CD104 from '84. 😀
Lovely players !!!
I have 8 at the last count plus 7 CD304s
Andy
I have 1 functional and 1 spare. Really shi... build quality. The mech is outstanding - the rest 

Thanks Brent, thats probably what i seen. I emailed the the Goldenjacks maker, where i did previously purchase, he has made me an excellent offer i cant refuse so will be ordering another set to try at say -12 or -14dB. I need a set on the tuner anyhow.
I popped them back on the cd out earlier and listened away and yes i can tell the difference, just dont know why i didnt before ! Im going for amp end this time tho. Hoprfully ill get some time to do some modding.
I popped them back on the cd out earlier and listened away and yes i can tell the difference, just dont know why i didnt before ! Im going for amp end this time tho. Hoprfully ill get some time to do some modding.
re: philips 104
I'd forgotten about these machines... my first intro to CD, when I was given one. Clear but thin as I recall - about 15years ago, when I all I had was a nice tape setup (as a penurious stoodent). And DIY LM1875-based amps with regulated supplies...
I'd forgotten about these machines... my first intro to CD, when I was given one. Clear but thin as I recall - about 15years ago, when I all I had was a nice tape setup (as a penurious stoodent). And DIY LM1875-based amps with regulated supplies...
Agreed! At least there's a nice heatsink for re-use... 😉I have 1 functional and 1 spare. Really shi... build quality. The mech is outstanding - the rest
Re: Re: Hello
You mean it's not already swollen!!?
Glad to see there's several others tried the golden jacks- So I'm not the only one too stupid/ lazy/busy to make my own 😀
rowemeister said:
LOL I like that, my head will swell 😉
Brent
You mean it's not already swollen!!?

Glad to see there's several others tried the golden jacks- So I'm not the only one too stupid/ lazy/busy to make my own 😀
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