jksmurf said:
lol no, i would never trust myself with an expensive cd-63 KI. I have stuck with teh standard players, but am using the chassis from a mkII which also had the additional strut brace.
My player is running, and sounding beautiful now with all my available mods in there. I knicked a load of wire from the sports lab where im working atm for my uni project, so will be building a star ground eventually in the next month.
Then il probably be leaving the rest of the mods, e.g. multiple PSUs, servo reg board, servo clock mod etc for Mr brent and his company, as ive had enough of killing players
😀
Well i didn't have a chance to listen with only them installed. I just turned the player on to check it worked. I installed my 5V reg board for the dac+decoder digi/ analogue lines, and xtal input, straight afterwards.
After those upgrades the player sounded noticeably better. The bass was deeper, but one noticable change was that the music seemed more airy and transparent. Much ess constrained than it was before. Leftfield - leftism sounded stunning, with more attack to the music, and had better instrument separation. A joy to listen to.
But as i said in another post, i was mostly listening to my new imogen heap cd which i have never heard on my player before.
Il try my favourite test cds when i get back to uni: Frou frou- details, Crystal method - tweekend, some we are scientists, and some more leftfield.
After those upgrades the player sounded noticeably better. The bass was deeper, but one noticable change was that the music seemed more airy and transparent. Much ess constrained than it was before. Leftfield - leftism sounded stunning, with more attack to the music, and had better instrument separation. A joy to listen to.
But as i said in another post, i was mostly listening to my new imogen heap cd which i have never heard on my player before.
Il try my favourite test cds when i get back to uni: Frou frou- details, Crystal method - tweekend, some we are scientists, and some more leftfield.
Hi,
I guess mine is at pain fighting with my average 220V? Does a big filter such as this will help, or is the voltage will definitly asleep my music? On many discs I have the feeling it is too slow, and I also have the feeling the system can't hold big bass, it seems after few seconds the bass decrease...
I guess mine is at pain fighting with my average 220V? Does a big filter such as this will help, or is the voltage will definitly asleep my music? On many discs I have the feeling it is too slow, and I also have the feeling the system can't hold big bass, it seems after few seconds the bass decrease...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Malefoda said:
I've heard this happening before, playing loud with deep bass content. Increasing the power supply reservoir of the amplifier decreases the effect.
I'm recovering from yesterday's drinking and listening to Krall. It's just stunning.
Simon
Malefoda said:
Passive filters help enormously with lowering the noise floor but series filters that use inductors offer much less dynamics as they raise the mains impedance.
Your problem with bass sounds very much like the amp and has simon said its probably the res caps. The demand outways the storage of the caps, so once the caps are drained you will get voltage sag and also the the caps will keep trying to refill adding more demand on the tx. Voltage sag will ruin the low end bass and cause distortion etc
Brent
what speaker impedance are you using?Malefoda said:
What value of smoothing capacitance are you using?
I recommend 2mF to 3mF/Apk of output current.
AND
PSU RC time constant of between 160mS and 200mS for effective bass.
If this makes the mid and/or treble lose it's accuracy/sparkle then bi-amp (passive) with a dedicated mid and treble amp designed to get the best out of the upper ranges. YES, different amp dedicated to their intended final use.
Sorry, a bit distant from the topic.
OK, if no-one has one to sell me, if I do keep the existing 2 transformer system, what shall I do to minimise its impact?
... and is it REALLY as big an issue as Brent seems to think...
k.
... and is it REALLY as big an issue as Brent seems to think...
k.
Help!
Hi fellows,
here I am the CD52SE killer...
One -soon to be former- friend gave me his CD52 SE in order to enjoy the LM4562.
I've removed the output caps ( 2 Silmic instead of one but only used on one pin... ), changed one cap C2678 ( 3300/16V for the same but ZL one and bypassed with a 220n PPS ), and changed 4 diodes for MBR1100, D6635...38, and changed the opamps+bypass pin 4/8 as on mine.
When we tried to play some CD at my home it sounded great, but when he plugged back on his PM44mKII SE it started to spin very few, and then stopped. I've had a look today, plugged off and back all the links/wires, and now when hit play it moves the laser unit and laser is on, but the disc does not spin anymore.
I've taken his CDP back and left him mine. Of course I'm scared for mine and I want to fix the 52 asap to get mine back!!
Heeeeeeeelp!!!
A first thanks to Ray who's already been asked advices before I've had my first check at this f*** CDP...
Matthieu aka "Suicidal Tendencies"
Oh and if you think I should open a new thread for this just tell me.
Hi fellows,
here I am the CD52SE killer...
One -soon to be former- friend gave me his CD52 SE in order to enjoy the LM4562.
I've removed the output caps ( 2 Silmic instead of one but only used on one pin... ), changed one cap C2678 ( 3300/16V for the same but ZL one and bypassed with a 220n PPS ), and changed 4 diodes for MBR1100, D6635...38, and changed the opamps+bypass pin 4/8 as on mine.
When we tried to play some CD at my home it sounded great, but when he plugged back on his PM44mKII SE it started to spin very few, and then stopped. I've had a look today, plugged off and back all the links/wires, and now when hit play it moves the laser unit and laser is on, but the disc does not spin anymore.
I've taken his CDP back and left him mine. Of course I'm scared for mine and I want to fix the 52 asap to get mine back!!
Heeeeeeeelp!!!
A first thanks to Ray who's already been asked advices before I've had my first check at this f*** CDP...
Matthieu aka "Suicidal Tendencies"
Oh and if you think I should open a new thread for this just tell me.
I've started with Play and Pause holden, and it seems it is the diag mode. When I hit play it shows 02 (error code?) and P122 with a red "error".
Any idea?
Any idea?
Hi Matthieu,
Error 02 means focus error, so the player is not able to find the disc. It's the first action after the tray is closed. Does the laser go up and down? Can you see a faint red light in the lens (don't look straight into it, but under an angle)? Worst case scenario is a dead laser.
The error codes are listed in the manual, i've put it on my website in case you haven't got it, I can't remember if I already sent it to you...
Regards,
Ray
Error 02 means focus error, so the player is not able to find the disc. It's the first action after the tray is closed. Does the laser go up and down? Can you see a faint red light in the lens (don't look straight into it, but under an angle)? Worst case scenario is a dead laser.
The error codes are listed in the manual, i've put it on my website in case you haven't got it, I can't remember if I already sent it to you...
Regards,
Ray
Yes Ray,
it goes down and up, do it 3 times and in the same time does some radial moves, and the red laser is on.... =(
I've seen on manual that the ribbon cabble has 2 plugs, may I remove the mech and check the other side? I've only removed the side on PCB but mybe have pull out the mech side?
it goes down and up, do it 3 times and in the same time does some radial moves, and the red laser is on.... =(
I've seen on manual that the ribbon cabble has 2 plugs, may I remove the mech and check the other side? I've only removed the side on PCB but mybe have pull out the mech side?
Maybe the discmotor that doesn't start to turn? Isn't there a separate connector for that on the PCB, under the transport? I recall forgetting it once and having to dismantle the whole player again 🙂
Ray
Ray
Yes this motor does not spin at all. It's well plugged as I plugged it many times to be sure. It seems there's no voltage when I hit play.
I think I'll have to buy one on ebay and shift the pcb and hq parts. :'(
I think I'll have to buy one on ebay and shift the pcb and hq parts. :'(
rowemeister said:
OK, I think I can get hold of a standard 63 (non SE) tranny, but as Brent said apparently they have a lower VA? rating than the SE ones. Is it worth waiting for a 63SE or 67SE one?
Wife rang Marantz here and they said the 67 (she didn't mention SE though) ONLY had 110v, for Japan and USA. Can anyone confirm if a 67 or 67SE IS available in a 240v Tx version?
k.
As many of you know my cdp is pretty much sorted (without stripping back and starting again).
So ive been working on the mains side, a month back I built a uber purifier for the mains with some 3 pole mains clamping. The results were superb, quieter noise floor with a smoother more relaxed sound and improvements in bass. Defo more musical.
And I have now built a uber clamp with added silencer circuit fo good measure. This will be tested over the weekend.
I fully recommend sorting your mains.
Brent
So ive been working on the mains side, a month back I built a uber purifier for the mains with some 3 pole mains clamping. The results were superb, quieter noise floor with a smoother more relaxed sound and improvements in bass. Defo more musical.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And I have now built a uber clamp with added silencer circuit fo good measure. This will be tested over the weekend.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I fully recommend sorting your mains.
Brent
Hi Rowe,
before you start handing them out.
How about telling us what it is that works so well?
before you start handing them out.
How about telling us what it is that works so well?
Well the purifier circuit eliminates the noise and ripple on the mains (tested with scope (and also ripped from Russ Andrews products that sell for many hundreds of pounds))
And the clamp suppresses transient spikes and voltage increases.
(Again some of it ripped from Russ Andrews products)
Both units work from L-N L-E N-E
The more suppression the better also. All my mains leads are also fitted with L-N suppression.
Brent
And the clamp suppresses transient spikes and voltage increases.
(Again some of it ripped from Russ Andrews products)
Both units work from L-N L-E N-E
The more suppression the better also. All my mains leads are also fitted with L-N suppression.
Brent