A question i have to pick ac up from the on off switch ,The mounting of the tx on the case near the xtal means 240ac leads passing over other components this a problem?.
cheers alan
cheers alan
I was concerned about mains hum getting into the audio,Do i go for mounting nr the original tx and have longer 12 ac leads to the clock,
thanks alan
thanks alan
I'd try and fit the tx near the original and also a psu (diodes + smoothing cap) there too.
Then run DC to the clock. It's safer and there's less chance of generating noise issues.
Cheers, Lee.
Then run DC to the clock. It's safer and there's less chance of generating noise issues.
Cheers, Lee.
Running low voltage ac down a twisted pair should not cause any issues. That's how mine is done. More out of practicality than anything.
Brent
Brent
Long DC leads is not ideal. Long low voltage AC leads is best.
Why is that Simon ?
Thanks all. I'll hold back on the C2 (which is very expensive anyway) About S'regs; will I hear a difference adding more (I have 6 now)? and what about this issue of letting in the light with a transparent top? It used to be that all light was banished from entering the interior. I assumed it was to prevent external light from perturbing the laser read.
Well Ricardo, if you have long AC leads it'll not do much harm unless they're super-close to critical areas that could pick up noise from them. If you have long DC leads you're going to have a higher impedance supply, though I'm sure it's much less of a concern if you have a local decoupling cap and regulator. Those DC leads could also pick up and spread noise I would think.
Shep - the C2 over C1 would make a bigger difference over additional S Powers, but of course it also costs more! I think your players at a level where the big gains will only come with big changes.
Simon
Shep - the C2 over C1 would make a bigger difference over additional S Powers, but of course it also costs more! I think your players at a level where the big gains will only come with big changes.
Simon
So I have some photos but haven't a clue how to show them! (dummy) URL? Say I have them saved somewhere, then what? And how big can they be? Mine are around 2mb
Got no reply on my last post, could someone please help me out? Tnks!!
I used 3x 7808CT and 3x 7908CV
Btw: the player makes a strange sound when powering off. The laser slides back on the rail and there's a distorted sound over the speakers. Wasn't there before. Maybe that gives away a clue? 😕
Can anybody please check if I did install the 8v regs the right way? There seems to be a difference between my picture (on the left, before putting in the new caps btw) and Brent's (on the right). Can't figure out what I did wrong though (I put the output towards the ic's)
I used 3x 7808CT and 3x 7908CV
Btw: the player makes a strange sound when powering off. The laser slides back on the rail and there's a distorted sound over the speakers. Wasn't there before. Maybe that gives away a clue? 😕
Attachments
Can't comment on the regs as I haven't done that mod myself.
The noise when you power off is probably due to removing the muting circuit (I assume that was a mod you did?). It's normal, just turn the amp off first (or turn the volume down).
pete
The noise when you power off is probably due to removing the muting circuit (I assume that was a mod you did?). It's normal, just turn the amp off first (or turn the volume down).
pete
If it works it can't possibly be wired wrong. The sled moving is probably just because you've changed the power supplies and so things shut down in a different order to before. I've noticed some odd things like that, especially on my Arcam Alpha: when I switch off the laser smacks into the stops hard. Good job I only power it off when I leave the house for a few nights.
The sled is moving one way on power down as one of the v rails is holding a charge longer. Are the main smoothing caps equal in value etc
Brent
Brent
The sled moving like that is not normal.
It's very simple: just measure the supply-voltages at the appropriate pins of the driver IC's. If all checks out (+/-8V) then you're o.k.
Ray
It's very simple: just measure the supply-voltages at the appropriate pins of the driver IC's. If all checks out (+/-8V) then you're o.k.
Ray
Tnks for the reply's. I used these for the power supply:
C803/804 Panasonic 10000UF, 35V TSHA
C813/814 Panasonic 22000UF, 16V TSUP (had to put one on a printboard to fit it in)
C815 Rubycon ZL 6800UF, 6.3V
C805/806 Panasonic FM 2200UF, 16V
Also changed the smoother caps to Rubycon ZL 330UF, 16V (+bypass caps)
Played them for +100 hours now but still the players sounds very flat (bass is quite good though). So I suspect I did something wrong with the driver regs. After I installed them the great sound was gone.
C803/804 Panasonic 10000UF, 35V TSHA
C813/814 Panasonic 22000UF, 16V TSUP (had to put one on a printboard to fit it in)
C815 Rubycon ZL 6800UF, 6.3V
C805/806 Panasonic FM 2200UF, 16V
Also changed the smoother caps to Rubycon ZL 330UF, 16V (+bypass caps)
Played them for +100 hours now but still the players sounds very flat (bass is quite good though). So I suspect I did something wrong with the driver regs. After I installed them the great sound was gone.
- Home
- Source & Line
- Digital Source
- Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list