Hi Pete,
220n is o.k., the point is to use a better type of capacitor than the cheap ceramics that are in there now. The best result is obtained if you use SMD caps, they have less induction. The radial MKS are metallized film wound capacitors, and winding means induction! This makes the cap less effective at high frequencies. If you're on a budget, or the PPS are hard to obtain, even a size 1206 ceramic SMD will improve things, but make sure you get an X7R type.
Ray
I started adding the glue to the disc clamps for two reasons.
1) When the CD63 were under warranty they used to come in for repair making a whiring noise. This came from the spindle moter shaft resonating at certain speeds (it was quite loud too) Marantz cured this (or Philips did) by supplying a new clamp that had a larger metal weight in it. The resonance used to start effecting the playing of discs too in the worst cases.
2) The damping properties of the glue are better than that of a just a disc of steel.
On my own I fitted a £1 coin carefully centralising it and bonded with super glue. When fixed I ran very hot and runny black hot glue around the gaps. Once this was done I placed the clamp on some bitumen and cut around the clamp. The clamp now locates perfectly everytime and is quieter during the loading process
Brent
1) When the CD63 were under warranty they used to come in for repair making a whiring noise. This came from the spindle moter shaft resonating at certain speeds (it was quite loud too) Marantz cured this (or Philips did) by supplying a new clamp that had a larger metal weight in it. The resonance used to start effecting the playing of discs too in the worst cases.
2) The damping properties of the glue are better than that of a just a disc of steel.
On my own I fitted a £1 coin carefully centralising it and bonded with super glue. When fixed I ran very hot and runny black hot glue around the gaps. Once this was done I placed the clamp on some bitumen and cut around the clamp. The clamp now locates perfectly everytime and is quieter during the loading process
Brent
Thanks Ray (and Brent). Now I understand why you use SMDs so often
I'll have to wait until I have enough other changes planned to get a sensible order value.
In the meantime, would it be a worthwhile improvement to use 100n X7R radials, I've got a load of those in the box.
Pete
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Hi Andrew,
Personally I've gone from bad-soldering novice to knowing how to make a half-decent cd player in that time.
The Arcam I have has more expensive parts and more mods and bigger power supplies than I ever did to my old CD63KI. It has about the same level of detail but a more weighty and natural sound. The cd63 will always sound just a little bit nasal and clinical. It certainly works better on certain types of music, whereas I find the old TDA1541 machines play everything well. The drawback is they take a lot of power and need a huge amount of work to get an open sound from.
The machine is an Arcam Alpha. Not an Alpha 5. It's the only one I've seen that has heavy mods to it
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/167068-arcam-alpha-mods.html
Simon
Thanks Ray (and Brent). Now I understand why you use SMDs so often
I'll have to wait until I have enough other changes planned to get a sensible order value.
In the meantime, would it be a worthwhile improvement to use 100n X7R radials, I've got a load of those in the box.
Pete
Yep, they are very handy and you can stick 'em right under a bigger cap. The trick is, I usually replace the original ceramic by a new electrolytic, which is then positioned closer to the IC it's meant to decouple. I remove the original electrolytic on that particular power-rail, which is mostly positioned farther away. The ceramic then goes on the underside of the board, or even closer to the IC's power pins, if I can find a good spot.
I don't think replacing them with 100n radials is going to do much at this stage.
Ray
A bit off topic but I've had a proud moment. Some of you know I was developing a headphone amp and I released it on Monday (sold a few already, which is nice). I now have it being sold by a retailer and hope to get more on board over the coming months. Fidelity Audio HPA-100 Headphone Amplifier
I use HD650 and Grado 325i for testing here but yesterday I borrowed some Beyerdynamic T1 headphones the amp delivered superb audio into those fantastic phones too.
Sorry for the off topic but i'm excited
Brent
I use HD650 and Grado 325i for testing here but yesterday I borrowed some Beyerdynamic T1 headphones the amp delivered superb audio into those fantastic phones too.
Sorry for the off topic but i'm excited
Brent
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A bit off topic but I've had a proud moment. Some of you know I was developing a headphone amp and I released it on Monday (sold a few already, which is nice). I now have it being sold by a retailer and hope to get more on board over the coming months. Fidelity Audio HPA-100 Headphone Amplifier
I use HD650 and Grado 325i for testing here but yesterday I borrowed some Beyerdynamic T1 headphones the amp delivered superb audio into those fantastic phones too.
Sorry for the off topic but i'm excited
Brent
Cool Brent!
Hope you enjoy this thread! Let us know how you progress, and if you have any specific questions, just ask...
Ray
If we're only talking in a few stratigic places...why not indeed? There's a lot of talk, here and elsewhere; those who ridicule the idea that resistors have a sound and those who think they do. Now me, I'm in the latter camp having long ago heard the dif. between Vishay, SHinko and caddok. The Shinko (which can be had at hifi Collective NOS) was the most natural of this lot. So Brent, if you're listening, the next time I send to you, care to try out a few flavors? I have in mind the new Vishay foil Z-1 and the Shinko and maybe the Takman. Yeah I know, I'm just throwing out names like I knew ! hey there's room for the amateur (in the interest on research of course)
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I'm interested that you've heard a Shinkoh. I saw them at Hi-Ficol' and wondered if the high price is justified. I've compared the white coffins, MOX and "Kiwame" carbons in crossovers and find the Kiwames that bit more natural. MOX are quite bad-sounding I think. Lee's tried Mundorf Supreme resistors in his speakers but those are something like £10 a time! I've used the little 2W "Kiwames" in electronics a bit but not compared to anything else (the overall result was sure good though).