6h5c said:
And you thought your ears are getting use to the sound.
Or is it the plants growing and getting bigger
allan
time align the room?????????????????
minus on any WAF
no need to ask😀
thanx ray
awpagan said:
You've got mail
Anyone else wants the new CD57/67 PDF, you know the drill...
He scanned and scanned, and then he got banned 😀
Ray.
rowemeister said:I have attached my mods list if any one is interested 😉
I don't think I have left anything off
Cool dude!
You did a very thorough (did I write that correct?) job 🙂
Ray.
rowemeister said:I have attached my mods list if any one is interested 😉
I don't think I have left anything off
You must have cornered the market for Black Gate caps
nowonder i have difficulty in finding them😀
nice mods Well done
ray
thank you oh so much
makes it easier to do my shopping list😀
allan
Hi,
...im new to the forum and to the thread. A few days ago i got my CD67SE after my rega planet died...
I startet off with the power-supply, changed some caps there (i will use Black Gates only...😀 )
I came across a few parts which weren't mentioned (i think...) in your posts and i'm wondering what to do with them:
These are C801/802, C811/812; i'd like t replace them but don't now their values...
Output: R661, R662 what about them...? Should i rip out C659/C660 or replace them?
Diodes: What about DN 01-04 and D811-12, do you think i should go for HFA08TB60 or better Schottky 11DQ6..?
Any comments are appreciated!
Mickie
...im new to the forum and to the thread. A few days ago i got my CD67SE after my rega planet died...
I startet off with the power-supply, changed some caps there (i will use Black Gates only...😀 )
I came across a few parts which weren't mentioned (i think...) in your posts and i'm wondering what to do with them:
These are C801/802, C811/812; i'd like t replace them but don't now their values...
Output: R661, R662 what about them...? Should i rip out C659/C660 or replace them?
Diodes: What about DN 01-04 and D811-12, do you think i should go for HFA08TB60 or better Schottky 11DQ6..?
Any comments are appreciated!
Mickie
Hi Mickie!
Always a sad time, the death of a piece of equipment, but...
you're lucky, because i'm the CD67 master 😀
C801/802/811/812 were never mentioned because you don't have to replace them. These are some standard ceramics that suppress noise on the AC power line. If you want to put in something more fancy I suppose you could swap them for a decent 47n X7R ceramic, they are probably Z5U now.
R661/662 are there to prevent a floating output, and should not be removed. If you really want to tweak them you could put in a metal film, but there's not much sense in making it a 1%....
C659/660 can be removed.
As for the diodes, the FRED's are very popular. But they still have a reverse recovery effect, although it is controlled and less. Fortunately, for low-voltage applications like this, you can (and should) use schottky diodes because they have no reverse recovery problems. You can use 11DQ06...10 or something similar, like SB160 or MBR1100, to replace the rectifier diodes.
If you want, you can read some more info on this matter here.
Regards,
Ray.
Always a sad time, the death of a piece of equipment, but...
you're lucky, because i'm the CD67 master 😀
C801/802/811/812 were never mentioned because you don't have to replace them. These are some standard ceramics that suppress noise on the AC power line. If you want to put in something more fancy I suppose you could swap them for a decent 47n X7R ceramic, they are probably Z5U now.
R661/662 are there to prevent a floating output, and should not be removed. If you really want to tweak them you could put in a metal film, but there's not much sense in making it a 1%....
C659/660 can be removed.
As for the diodes, the FRED's are very popular. But they still have a reverse recovery effect, although it is controlled and less. Fortunately, for low-voltage applications like this, you can (and should) use schottky diodes because they have no reverse recovery problems. You can use 11DQ06...10 or something similar, like SB160 or MBR1100, to replace the rectifier diodes.
If you want, you can read some more info on this matter here.
Regards,
Ray.
I used HFA08TB60C HexFREDS. I used these as these are the ones fitted in Audiocoms £1200 modded KI player they do.
So I thought why not 😀
So I thought why not 😀
Hi Brent,
Cool avatar 😀.
They are not bad diodes of course, but I think it is also a marketing strategy, like the fancy HDAM circuit in our players. FRED's are hot, Schottky's are not
.
But if I read about the differences between the two, I'd say for low-voltage go for schottky, since they don't have reverse recovery. And if it ain't there, you don't have to control it either.
Regards,
Ray.
Cool avatar 😀.
They are not bad diodes of course, but I think it is also a marketing strategy, like the fancy HDAM circuit in our players. FRED's are hot, Schottky's are not
.But if I read about the differences between the two, I'd say for low-voltage go for schottky, since they don't have reverse recovery. And if it ain't there, you don't have to control it either
.Regards,
Ray.
mickie
"I startet off with the power-supply, changed some caps there (i will use Black Gates only... )"
ok, rub it in😀
allan
"I startet off with the power-supply, changed some caps there (i will use Black Gates only... )"
ok, rub it in😀
allan
awpagan said:
Allan I don't know if you can order from here but this is who I use for the Black Gates
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/black_gate_caps.html
the HDAM circiut or the DAMH circuit?
marantz marketing guru's though about it🙄
and what did thet decide and why😀
not that hard to bypass either.
I wonder if some engineer thought about this.
allan
marantz marketing guru's though about it🙄
and what did thet decide and why😀
not that hard to bypass either.
I wonder if some engineer thought about this.
allan
I have just downloaded the CD17 MKIII service manual to compare circuit's with our machines.
It as two mono DACs (shielded) straight to the HDAM. No OP AMPs used at all.
The HDAM is pretty much the same as ours and the muting is the same with a few resistors having lower values.
It as two mono DACs (shielded) straight to the HDAM. No OP AMPs used at all.
The HDAM is pretty much the same as ours and the muting is the same with a few resistors having lower values.
rowemeister said:
That would be an interesting circuit to look at😀
Blackgate's?
I thought the original company had stopped manufacture?
I have found some places that get them, but then order to find if the
one's you want available and then the price
Don't they take a long time to break in?
If so, you could think anything could improve the sound by the time
they "break in"
allan
awpagan said:
That would be an interesting circuit to look at😀
Blackgate's?
I thought the original company had stopped manufacture?
I have found some places that get them, but then order to find if the
one's you want available and then the price
Don't they take a long time to break in?
If so, you could think anything could improve the sound by the time
they "break in"
allan
When I first changed my caps around regs and dac to blackgate the first thing I noticed was a better more natural sounding bass with a slightly better/smoother mid range.
And I know running the machine more and more can only improve things 😀 and then my laser will fail
Having looked at the diagram for this player I know my player is much better, the psu are better than standard 63/67 but not amazing.
The circuit layout is much more linear (better routing of tracks) and there for better.
Also the +/- 12v regs for HDAM are situated right next to the HDAM.
Just like my +/- 12v regs for op amps 😀
Pic of KI model shown
The circuit layout is much more linear (better routing of tracks) and there for better.
Also the +/- 12v regs for HDAM are situated right next to the HDAM.
Just like my +/- 12v regs for op amps 😀
Pic of KI model shown
