Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Jump to Latest
6h5c

6h5c

Member
Joined 2004
raylectronics.nl/index_en.html
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Marantz cd 53 mods

RCruz said:
Hi Ray

Actually I am focusing in the digital section only because I am using an external DAC (the Sony gives a lot more definition and soundstage than the analog section of the CD53).

Can you suggest some upgrades in the coaxial output lines ?
Canging CT01 (0.1uF) to something bigger ould help ?

Regards

Ricardo
Click to expand...

Oh, yes, you spoke about your DAC earlier, sorry :xeye:.
The quality of the digital out could be improved with a better transformer; I read somewhere that the standard one is not a very high quality component. Or you could totally eliminate it if your DAC already has one at the input. There's no need for two of them, it's used to create galvanic isolation.

Dunno if a bigger CT01 will improve things, a better quality might help however. I think there's a ceramic in there now.

Regards,

Ray
 
adfinni

adfinni

Member
Joined 2006
SimontY said:


It's just nice to show the system off to people who understand! :D

And Adam was in Sheffield anyway. I think I've inspired him to do more CD63 (and other) mods! ;)

Simon
Click to expand...


You certainly have, so brent had better get his iron warmed up (new job permitting).

Simon's system did sound pretty damn fine, but i think we spent more time talking than listening to the music. I think that shows how sad we really are :D

My 63 is still on hold until my new headphone amp, switchbox and silver IC's are built. But i have a question about which upgraded RCA sockets people use on the back of their equipment. I know simon uses the maplin £1 ones but ive been looking at some silver plated ones for my switchbox, but as i need at least 6 pairs the cost is just horrific. Has anyone actually noticed a difference between these cheapy ones and silver ones, as my new stereo IC's are using 0.5mm silver wire in the chris venhaus configuration, with a cotton outer covering coupled with yarbo silver plated RCA's and im not sure if cheapy maplin rca sockets on the switchbox will affect the sound in a negative way ??


:angel:
 
SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
adfinni said:
i think we spent more time talking than listening to the music. I think that shows how sad we really are :D
Click to expand...

Hi, yes, we are very sad indeed! Feels good eh? ;)


i have a question about which upgraded RCA sockets people use on the back of their equipment. I know simon uses the maplin £1 ones but ive been looking at some silver plated ones for my switchbox, but as i need at least 6 pairs the cost is just horrific. Has anyone actually noticed a difference between these cheapy ones and silver ones...
Click to expand...

The £1 teflon-insulated ones from Maplin provided a shade more detail and less grain than the knackered old standard ones on my CD63ki.

I would say if you're using silver wire and plated plugs then you want to keep the continuity of having silver plated RCAs. Or if you get a well paid job then solid silver ones :D

I'm sure you know to use silver-loaded solder too. It's cr@p but soldering silver will always be annoying.

Simon
 
J

jimh0612

Member
Joined 2006
Re: BG AC

jimh0612 said:
Also I fitted 4 of the 5v Rayregs to RD01, RD04, R508 and R511. I think I have therefore missed out the caps by feeding the reg voltage straight in at the load end of the resistor.

Do you think I would get better results by using BG's between the reg and load? Maybe I could build the cap into the reg itself? (They include a small tant as per the schematics on Ray's site).

Any suggestions on values/types would be appreciated.

As an alternative I could convert the regs into SuperRayregs with the BC547 gyrators, but would this sound better or worse than the BG's?
Click to expand...

I posted this a couple of days ago but got no replies.

Have I missed out the caps by removing the resistors and feeding the regs in the hole at the load end? I can't work it out from the manual cos its a poor copy.

I want to get it right but I'm not very technical yet.

Can someone please help me out?

Thanks.

Jim.
 
J

jimh0612

Member
Joined 2006
Hi Lee

I built the LM317 Rayregs using 10uF tants between output and adjust like the schematic from his site said.

On a couple I've used small cheapo 10uF/16v electrolytics from Maplins but apart from that all I've done is change the caps on the main PCB for Elna RJHs as per Ray's last but one list.

Keep thinking I should use some of your BG's but dunno whether they should be on the reg board or in the main PCB.

Jim
 
Glenn2

Glenn2

Member
Joined 2006
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Marantz cd 53 mods

RCruz said:

Sorry
I meant; Changing CT 01 (0.1uF) to something bigger would help ?

Regards
Click to expand...

Robert Noriega ('Bobwire') did some mods where he claimed to improve the digital output and had taken measurements.

8.Removing the 100 ohm resistor and 47pF capacitor from the decoder digital output, and adding a coax to take the signal to the coupling capacitor of the digital output will bring up the rise time and improve imaging. Making a stacked coupling capacitor for the digital output will make sure that fast rise time gets to the output jack. Also, jumpering out the capacitors at the output transformer (making it a DC ground instead of AC) will get the waveform to look a lot better. I used a Tektronics 485 and test CD to check this out.
Click to expand...

CT01 Becomes a stacked capacitor made up of a 10uF tantalum, 1uF film, .1uF film and a .01uF film. One side of this capacitor receives the end of the coax coming from R514 (or pin-2 of the decoder).
Click to expand...

On coax mods...

Digital output:
The first coax to do is the digital output (if you haven't done it already).
This is easy to do if you remove R514 and use the hole that goes to pin 2 of the decoder to solder one end down. Scrape the solder mask from the ground plane near the hole to solder the coax ground to. The other end goes to one end of the stacked capacitor CT01. Again, scrape the solder mask near the capacitor. Solder one lead of the capacitor to the board (in its normal place) and leave the other in the air, cut its lead short and solder the coax to it. Solder the ground to the ground plane.
Click to expand...

Here is the full write-up.

I can't vouch for any of it mind, but you can make your own mind up. It would be easy to undo again.
 
Thomo

Thomo

Member
Joined 2006
jimh0612 said:
Hi Lee

I built the LM317 Rayregs using 10uF tants between output and adjust like the schematic from his site said.

On a couple I've used small cheapo 10uF/16v electrolytics from Maplins but apart from that all I've done is change the caps on the main PCB for Elna RJHs as per Ray's last but one list.

Keep thinking I should use some of your BG's but dunno whether they should be on the reg board or in the main PCB.

Jim
Click to expand...


lol, yes you should replace every cap in your player with one of my Black Gates :$: :$: :$: :D

Seriously, I would transfer the Elna's to the regs, and then use BG's on the board, as this is where you'll get the most benefit imo.

Brent, those monster caps you've used for your clock psu are absolute crackers. They give better hf filtering than the alp series that Audiocom use.

Lee.
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
jimh0612 said:
Hi Lee

I built the LM317 Rayregs using 10uF tants between output and adjust like the schematic from his site said.

On a couple I've used small cheapo 10uF/16v electrolytics from Maplins but apart from that all I've done is change the caps on the main PCB for Elna RJHs as per Ray's last but one list.

Keep thinking I should use some of your BG's but dunno whether they should be on the reg board or in the main PCB.

Jim
Click to expand...

I would put the caps on the pcb, much better for the chips to have a voltage reservoir next to them to take gulps from. Also regulators can sometimes struggle to supply a happy clean supply when a large low esr cap is on its outputs.
The 16V 220uF BG STD from Thomo will do the trick.

Brent
 
J

jimh0612

Member
Joined 2006
Thanks Brent

The regs are as close to the chips as I could get them, I think.

They're in the chip side holes of the removed resistors RD01, RD04, R508 and R511.

I was bothered that I might have been missing out the caps on the PCB by doing that as I thought the power from the reg needed to go through the PCB caps like CD06 etc.

Thanks also to Thomo.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom