Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Hi Mik,

mikharris said:
thanks ray, a couple of things,
is that all output capacitors between c655 and c685 or just these two?

That would be all between, so C655, 656, 657 and 658.

also i notice that c651 to 654 are missing do i remove these too? does that bit of wire run from u210 to r658 and from u214 to r657?

Once you've removed R651...654 the power that supplies C651...654 (and thus the HDAM circuit) is cut-off. You can leave them in place or use them for something else. The jumper wire indeed runs from U210/214 to R657/658. These two resistors can be removed too.

have ordered two opamps opa2604(ap) which i am going to run in class A which invloves putting a resistor (3.6k 1/4 Watt carbon film) between pins 1&4 4&7, is this a good thing or will the opamps run to hot? ie will i need heatsinks?

Biasing in class-A can make an audible difference. Just try and listen. The opamps won't need a heatsink for that.

an iec mains socket (do i have to earth that)?
is it worth me getting the chassis copper plated?

thanks, mik

You don't have to earth the IEC socket for safety, the player is a class II device with double insulation. BUT, it can reduce equalization currents running between your amp and player, through your interlink. You must earth the amp too to minimise this effect, and connect both player and amp to the same socket to avoid hum.
I don't think copper plating the chassis will be a big bang-for-the-buck.

Regards,

Ray.
 
compressit said:
Post #3544:
... After finishing the gounding work around the servo (U145 and isolate pin 15 to star) I checked to see if all was OK and now the transport won't spin. While checking this I found I had cracked the PCB near the transformer, one trace that feeds the 7918 reg. I made a jumper for this but still no go.

All voltages seem to be normal to all transistors, regs, IC's except for pin 7 and 8 on Q105 which show less than a volt.
The 2.5V on pin 7 and 8 is generated internally?
Also pin 4 on the servo is showing .2V . should be 1.0V

Post #3559:
... U140/U147 are untouched. All voltages to Q105 are fine except pin 7 and 8. The 5v side of R129 is 5V, output still .2V even after a new 10K.

Put this into service mode and the laser started chattering badly, and continues to do so. Shortly before this I checked voltages at the servo, all 0.0V pins had some voltage, between .2 / .4V
Pin 17 sadly had 2.5V, supposed to be 0.0V. All 2.5 and 5V pins were spot on.

The grounding mod was done correctly, no other pads or traces nearby affected, a minimum of heat was used for attaching the wire at pin 15. All roads seem to be leading back to the servo.

Pin 2 of Servo IC (Laser Drive ON) feeds pin 7 of Q105. I guess there's the problem.
Are the connections to the transport good? (bad joints, loose wire).

The spin motor is powered by QM01 (TCA0372). Has it correct voltages?

Jaap
 
6h5c said:
You don't have to earth the IEC socket for safety, the player is a class II device with double insulation. BUT, it can reduce equalization currents running between your amp and player, through your interlink. You must earth the amp too to minimise this effect, and connect both player and amp to the same socket to avoid hum.
I don't think copper plating the chassis will be a big bang-for-the-buck.

Regards,

Ray.

Hi Ray,
Maybe another tip for reduction of equalization currents: experiment with the polarity of the mains plug to obtain the least voltage on the case (measure to mains ground).
I heared of this recently but it seems 'high enders' do it for many years.
Regards, Jaap
 
I know this is off topic, but my amp died over the weekend:( Its an Exposure XV integrated which ive owned for around 10 trouble free years. It opened it up and didnt see any burnt components or obvious things wrong, until I looked closer and found a small trabnsistor that was cracked almost in half. im hoping this is the only problem and that I can just replace it. Its a ztx552, anyone have one laying around I could maybe make a trade for?? I cant seem to find them for sale onnline in small quanities. For those not familiar with the Exposure X, its a Bristish integrated amp. Its a fully regulated design, even the output stage is regulated and runs calss B for around 40wpc. Its similar in design to some of Naims regulated amps. If anyone in the US can help please letme know
thanks
Frank
 
6h5c said:
Once you've removed R651...654 the power that supplies C651...654 (and thus the HDAM circuit) is cut-off. You can leave them in place or use them for something else. The jumper wire indeed runs from U210/214 to R657/658. These two resistors can be removed too.


Regards,

Ray. [/B]


just done all that on the old 63, what an improvement, bass is tighter sound stage is better mids are more real and the treble bites great upgrade all for free,
just one thing, on your picture the jumper wire goes from u214 to r657, but to which side? top or bottom as you look at the pic? i`ve put it to the top thinking logicaly as it is nearer the output, all is working ok,
going to try it on the 63se now, this time with the new opamps and schottky diodes,
thanks for the help, great thread wouldn`t have tried without your help, once again thanks, mik
 
Ok guys,
here I'm back after my homework...
Now I'm just asking if all the refs from Farnell are ok for the component and I hope can order soon...

1u MKT ( bypass of C813 4700u/16V 4700u/16V Panasonic FC 303-6212)
Is 975-0932 ok for this ?

R659/660 47R
1099858

For the PS on the opamp :
1166036 or 1006004 ( Tolerance is not the same... )

and finally +100n X7R
756-9564


If all is ok I'll order tomorrow :)

Thanks for your patience!!
Merci les gars !
 
Malefoda said:
1u MKT ( bypass of C813 4700u/16V 4700u/16V Panasonic FC 303-6212) Is 975-0932 ok for this ?
May I suggest you use a 4700/16 (pitch 7.5mm) Rubicon ZLH instead without bypass (part 8126330).

R659/660 47R 1099858
R659 and R660 are in the audio path. Are you shure you want to use metal film type here? I'd use carbon film (part 9338802, buy 10 and match with DMM). Another option would be thick film SMD (part 420062, you need to buy 50) or thick film TO220 (part 1140205, expensive).

For the PS on the opamp :1166036 or 1006004 ( Tolerance is not the same... )
I'd buy the Wima. Again buy ten and match. Another option is Black Gate NX Hi-Q 0,1uF 50V (€1,65 each from Acoustic Dimension). If you have a steady hand (!) you can use them too for the DAC bypass.

and finally +100n X7R 756-9564
50V and 20%, can do on most spots. For Servo and DAC analogue I'd use Black gate N without bypass or Panasonic FC with 0,1uF BG NX Hi-Q bypass.
 
disco said:

May I suggest you use a 4700/16 (pitch 7.5mm) Rubicon ZLH instead without bypass (part 8126330).

Thank you Jaap!
And here I go for your advices... Farnell here I come!
I'll let you know after all this is mounted ( Ray's full list & AD8620 & upgraded headphone which I want to keep ), and when I'm setteled in my new house. Have also to setup my audio room there...
Thanks all!
 
Over 144€... I hope this is worth the price! Of course this is for the full list, and will be fitted AD8620 on my CD53.
I'll pray for music enjoyment after the upgrade! ( and will pray for upgrading without any problem... ).
Is the re-routing of the PS on the Decoder needed? (remove & bypass R508?).

Again, thank you fellows for supporting a dumb like me :)
 
Hi,

I'm about to start on the split 5v feeds on my CD73. My confusion is in relation to the value of the capacitors. In the original I had C813 (4700u) before the 7805 reg and C815 (3300u) after. Both now are replaced with 4700u.

When I take the split feeds to 3 seperate 5v regs should I keep the same total capacitance either side ie 1600u (or similar) before and after each new reg.? Or should I still keep 4700u for each.

Or something else?

Thanks for any advice.

Pete
 
disco said:
Hi Ray,
Maybe another tip for reduction of equalization currents: experiment with the polarity of the mains plug to obtain the least voltage on the case (measure to mains ground).
I heared of this recently but it seems 'high enders' do it for many years.
Regards, Jaap

Yeah, I know. In a couple of weeks this won't be an issue anymore, since i'm building a balanced powersource :D

Ray.
 
mikharris said:
just done all that on the old 63, what an improvement, bass is tighter sound stage is better mids are more real and the treble bites great upgrade all for free,
just one thing, on your picture the jumper wire goes from u214 to r657, but to which side? top or bottom as you look at the pic? i`ve put it to the top thinking logicaly as it is nearer the output, all is working ok,
...
once again thanks, mik

Hi Mik,

You're welcome, i'm glad you like it! You connected things properly, else it wouldn't be working. So R657 is connected near the output :D.

Ray.
 
Chivvyp said:
Hi,

I'm about to start on the split 5v feeds on my CD73. My confusion is in relation to the value of the capacitors. In the original I had C813 (4700u) before the 7805 reg and C815 (3300u) after. Both now are replaced with 4700u.

When I take the split feeds to 3 seperate 5v regs should I keep the same total capacitance either side ie 1600u (or similar) before and after each new reg.? Or should I still keep 4700u for each.

Or something else?

Thanks for any advice.

Pete

Pete,

The purpose of a large reservoir is to feed many or big hungry mouths (consumers and bypass caps).

Best results are had with a new PSU for 5V, feeding several regs to the DAC etc. You're dealing with small currents (up to 10mA?), so there's no need for many microFarads bypassing these regs. Depending on the kind of load presented caps from 22 to 220uF give best results as load times get larger for more capacitance.
Brent is very pleased with Black Gate N-series and I guess this is the best place to put them in action. BG NX would do better but are more expensive.

Regards, Jaap