Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[SimontY]

Hi Frank,

It might be the 'Javascript' but all I can see is text, no schematic ...

Jaap

Hey Jaap,

Works for me, here it is linked for convenience:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Simon

 

[imperfectcircle]

It may be the Javascript, I get text, pics and all the way at the bottom there is a schematic.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I thought it looked quite nicely done as well Simon, especially when you consider the price for pcb and all the parts is $45 w/ 3ppm crystal or $30 w/ 10ppm crystal. Its got to be better than the stock clock I would think??

 

[Fidelity Audio]

I think so, at least that's how I see it at a glance.

It looks very nicely done with the floating crystal section!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Simon

It does look nice. How is the pcb connected to the other?
Do we have different views

Brent

 

[SimontY]

I will apologise in advance to anyone who dislikes pictures.

With that said, here come six pictures...

Firstly, an overview of the internals.

 

[Gooch]

Hi Frank

Have you seen this it what I am using in my CD63 it works great.
Clock


Regards

Dave

 

[imperfectcircle]

It does look nice. How is the pcb connected to the other?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

You must have to jumper 2 small wires from the two holes next two the .o1 caps on each board?

 

[SimontY]

Here's the reg board feeding DAC and decoder. Also you can see the servo clock divider, main clock, detatchable coax from HF output, op-amps, and many changed caps.

 

[disco]

It does look nice. How is the pcb connected to the other?
Do we have different views

Brent

At a first look the LM317 on the left is a CCS at 12,5mA. The LM317 on the right should give 5V. Hmmm, what's that IC doing?

 

[SimontY]

On this pic you can see the 627s on Browndogs, the repositioned but stock 12v regs feeding only the op-amps, 1000uF BG standards feeding the opas, Pana FCs feeding the DAC, and a closer view of the long-discontinued Audiocom DVC-1 masterclock.

 

[SimontY]

Here's a closeup of the regulator board. The heatsinked reg gets quite warm so it's been treated to some cooling. The big cap is BG Standard 1000uF and the little ones are Panasonic FC 33uF, the very little ones are 22nF polyester.

 

[imperfectcircle]

I may pick up on of these clocks just to try, do you think upgrading from the 1oppm crystal to the 3ppm is worth an extra $15??

 

[imperfectcircle]

Here's a closeup of the regulator board. The heatsinked reg gets quite warm so it's been treated to some cooling. The big cap is BG Standard 1000uF and the little ones are Panasonic FC 33uF, the very little ones are 22nF polyester

What kind of regulators are you using on that board? Looks easy enough, maybe I will try it.

 

[SimontY]

I may pick up on of these clocks just to try, do you think upgrading from the 1oppm crystal to the 3ppm is worth an extra $15??

Peace of mind maybe? lol

What kind of regulators are you using on that board? Looks easy enough, maybe I will try it.

Just "jellybean" 7805. They'll be upgraded at some point in the future I'd imagine, but they work well enough (good improvement on the single shared 7805 as per stock).

 

[SimontY]

This is where ground is routed! A couple are detatchable: for reg board and transport/mech section. The bigger wire links it to the IEC socket I added. The large resistor reduces the voltage for the twin blue LEDs (which shine across the disc). Also you can see the choke for live and neutral. That bluetac is pointless I think lol

 

[SimontY]

Last one now, just an overview really. You can see where I removed some bitumen from the lid, as I felt it was overdamped at some point. I think just a little resonance is good 😉

 

[Fidelity Audio]

It all looks very familiar 😀

Brent

 

[SimontY]

It all looks very familiar 😀

Brent

Hehe, well I guess it would, as you rebuilt it for me. Credit where credit's due! This sounds superb! Thanks Brenton 😀

 

[disco]

Here's a closeup of the regulator board. The heatsinked reg gets quite warm so it's been treated to some cooling. The big cap is BG Standard 1000uF and the little ones are Panasonic FC 33uF, the very little ones are 22nF polyester.

Nice job Simon, good music too 🙂

In case you didn't use low drop regulators (LT108X series) and are feeding from the +20 rails, that's where your heat comes from.
Maybe it's wise to have an extra tranny for the 5V supplies, of say 7V. That would give out app 8.5Vdc (with Schottkies), just enough to feed your regs.

Regards, Jaap

 

[SimontY]

Nice job Simon, good music too 🙂

In case you didn't use low drop regulators (LT108X series) and are feeding from the +20 rails, that's where your heat comes from.
Maybe it's wise to have an extra tranny for the 5V supplies, of say 7V. That would give out app 8.5Vdc (with Schottkies), just enough to feed your regs.

Regards, Jaap

Cheers Jaap, I am planning to install some trannies and rectifiers (schottkies) in a metal box and attach this via some wires and a DIN connector. The clock psu is external already so I might aswell put it in a bigger box with more useful things and supercharge it all over again!

 

[Fidelity Audio]

Nice job Simon, good music too 🙂

In case you didn't use low drop regulators (LT108X series) and are feeding from the +20 rails, that's where your heat comes from.
Maybe it's wise to have an extra tranny for the 5V supplies, of say 7V. That would give out app 8.5Vdc (with Schottkies), just enough to feed your regs.

Regards, Jaap

I often use the +20v for the 7805 regs on other players and they never usually get hot. bizzare.

On my player and other uber mod players I usually use a nuvotem toroidal 9V tx.

Brent