Read thru here looking for knowledge.. seem rather thin on the ground, sadly.
The CD63 was 'average' when new, 10 years later it's just obsolete. Despite an encrustation of Leds and Damping Goo.
Humbly suggest a Cheapo DVD player ($50 or so) Superior Laser, Higher spec Clock and the Odious Opamps can be easily discarded , (no need to buy/install slightly less odious 'flavour of the week' items) taking signal directly from the DAC chip.
Result is surprising.. This IS the 21st century 🙂
The CD63 was 'average' when new, 10 years later it's just obsolete. Despite an encrustation of Leds and Damping Goo.
Humbly suggest a Cheapo DVD player ($50 or so) Superior Laser, Higher spec Clock and the Odious Opamps can be easily discarded , (no need to buy/install slightly less odious 'flavour of the week' items) taking signal directly from the DAC chip.
Result is surprising.. This IS the 21st century 🙂
You think so?
I promise I'll make a test with my local but famous hi-fi shop. They may laugh at me or be surprised. I'll let you know...
I promise I'll make a test with my local but famous hi-fi shop. They may laugh at me or be surprised. I'll let you know...
This here player would blow them away in the shops!
And a DVD player? Yes, let's do that instead. 😱
In all seriousness, I'd like to get a cheap dvd/sacd/dvda player and see what it can sound like with mods, but I'd be stunned if it got close to the very modded CD63, with odious op-amps.
This player's sound is leaps and bounds ahead of any cd player I've heard at any price to date (apart from the other, even more modified CD63).
And a DVD player? Yes, let's do that instead. 😱
In all seriousness, I'd like to get a cheap dvd/sacd/dvda player and see what it can sound like with mods, but I'd be stunned if it got close to the very modded CD63, with odious op-amps.
This player's sound is leaps and bounds ahead of any cd player I've heard at any price to date (apart from the other, even more modified CD63).
Any dual opamps that come close to the soun d of the opa627, I dont have an adapter yet for the opamps. How is the ad8620?
imperfectcircle said:
I've not heard it but people say it's very good. Really the 2134/2 is fine though, as is the LM6172 - use whichever suits your system better. Good for the interim.
I'm going to get a Philips DVP 5500S, wich plays CD/DVD/SACD for cheap. This player is know for cheap high quality sound one.
http://www.son-video.com/Rayons/HomeCinema/LectDVD/Philips-DVP5500.html
You can already find many teaks pages about this player...
And maybe change some with the left components such as opamps 😉
http://www.son-video.com/Rayons/HomeCinema/LectDVD/Philips-DVP5500.html
You can already find many teaks pages about this player...
And maybe change some with the left components such as opamps 😉
After all the basic cap, resistor, diode, opamp, clock mods. Whats next?? Should I be thinking about some super regulators for the +/-12v, 5v rails??? WHich ones do I choose there are so many kits, pcbs, and premade ones out there. The Bursen audio seem to be the best deal right now $70usd for 4 regulators.
imperfectcircle said:
May I suggest you read Brents mod list as it contains all details you ask for. It really is a matter of taste, money and availability (Fleas are sold out right now).
Be aware of the complexity of the design: the Raygulator is in fact a sole LM317 (hence it's price), other designs may incorporate the expensive AD797 IC which makes a theoretical better PSU.
Regards, Jaap
imperfectcircle said:
Unfortunately, while there are many joyous veil-removing sessions in modding the cd63, there is no easy quick fix for this player's many weak areas. You really need to do a lot to reach the ultimate detail, texture and toe-tapping timing that is available.
I would suggest that all the resistor and cap swaps may be the least important parts to do, and a LOT of the goodies come from reclocking the servo and DAC, and of course the clock needs a dedicated psu. It doesn't even need a super-duper-reg, but of course that will help. Some psu work is important for the rest.
But I have amazing sound and I have no super regs... These would appear to make the sound smoother and generally better, but you can add these on last, as I intend to!
The HDAM needs to come out don't forget, that's very important.
I hope that helps a little bit. Tell us what your priorities are and we can tell you which parts to change to get, say, smoother treble or better bass...
Simon
Bare said:
Sorry to here that because I have found it to be very informative. Besides my CDP sound great thanks to guys like Ray, Brent, and Jaap. and all there efforts sorry if forgot anyone also this one of the most friendly post I have ever been apart of. I put it up against a Arcam FMJ CD23, Marantz DV18, and Sony DVP 7700 my moded CD63 sounded better. And for DVD players there for watching movies that’s my take.
Regards,
Dave
Bare said:
Thanks for your input Bare. You can start a new topic with your excellent idea. Maybe you find someone who shares your opinion.
Regards, Jaap
Bare said:
LOL Thats a very narrow view my friend!
A dvd player that costs $50 will be the cheapest pile of poo. Items like that are so cheap they are not repairable under warranty!! they are just exchanged. They have a really cheap transport and decoder circuit pcb thats shared between all those cheap player made in china and an awful switch mode psu that is covered in crap solder and glue. And the actual sound quality is diabolical.
I really can't see where you are getting your info from.
Oh and sadly 21st century does not mean its good or better, it usually means its cheaper to make.
Look at MP3 thats 21st century and its ****!!
Also
Any cd player from 1985 to 2006 will benefit hugely from fitting nice caps, low noise regulators and seperating the voltage rails etc.
After all the very expensive cd players are built this way.
The blue LEDs were fitted to see if they really helped, I dont think they do in my player but may in others.
I really don't see why you felt you needed to post what you did to be honest
Brent
SimontY said:
Yes it was very good to meet up with Simon again and good someone else could hear my player.
I can also confirm simons player sounds very good indeed (not just because I had a play with it lol), its got alot going for it and only needs a few small tweeks around the servo to wring that extra detail.
We need to arrange a meet up again at his house so I can see and hear his home grown speakers and amp.
Brent
disco said:
There are many threads, already in existance, which deal with the modification of DVD players, such as the Pioneer DV-563A. It is said to sound good, but when there is so much mileage in a CD63/7 I can see no hurry to rush over to a "flavour-of-the-month" formula such as the universal player with a couple of Black Gates thrown into the switched mode psu, good as it may be.
disco said:
Oh yes! I need to open it tomorrow to put the strut brace back in, I'll take pics then
rowemeister said:
That we do, and Adfinni and anyone else local is welcome to join in any such meetup that follows. 😎
Simon
I guess what Im really after, is tighter more powerful bass, less grain, smoother and more open sound. I know that seems like alot to ask for. I will be adding a dedicated supply for my clock next, whats a good inexpensive way to go about this? There seems to be a ton of DIY supplys available onnline. Here are just a few I found while searching
JSR-03 PSU
easy psu kit
psu
net audio psu
So as you can see its a bit overwhelming when ur a newbie!!!
imperfectcircle said:
Blimey you are asking for the works, lol!
Well, removing the HDAM opens the sound up and improves the smoothness. Using OPA627 will further improve smoothness and openness, as well as giving you deeper, more satisfying bass.
Schottky diodes in the PSU will improve the treble smoothness.
The feet should be hard cones for the best bass (and overall musicality).
A clock with psu will help you find the tight, powerful bass you crave. You could even leave the HDAM installed if you like your bass in spades, but I think it's a lot better without personally.
And of course there's much more, but those changes outlined above are very nice ones.
Time for bed now, laters!
Simon
Thanks for the tips Simon. I am thinking about removing the Hdam and upgrading the opamps. I would really like to build a power supply for my clock. Im using the Hagerman Tech "Hagclock" which I built from the kit. Im not really sure what kind of power supply I need to build for the clock, do I just need a basic transformer, rectifier and caps or do I need a regulated supply??
thanks
Frank
thanks
Frank
imperfectcircle said:
Personally I would use a small toroidal transformer with schottky diodes for rectification and a good quality cap for the smoothing. Then a decent reg (audiocom etc) with another good cap on output to supply the clock.
Brent