Gooch said:Hi Everyone
So I took apart the CDM12 cleaned everything all the old grease the gears ect.
Well it still doesn’t workWill a CDM 12.4 work as a replacement? I know where to get one of them.
Regards
Dave
Hello Dave,
Unfortunate cleaning didn't help.
Did you already clean the contacts of J103 connector?
You can take off the top moving part by carefully bending the sides with a small screwdriver.
I use compressed air (3-4 bar) to move the metal fingers which seem to loose tension after 10 years and many removals of the cable. Afterwards I clean with a cottonswap and alcohol. Fixed every problem I encountered with respect to skipping.
I've red VAM1201 can replace the 12.1
Regards, Jaap
I did clean the cable with a cotton swap and alcohol as for J103 I did check it the connection is good I put the transport into a stock CD63 I even swapped cables that didn't work. I found a local Marantz service center maybe they can help.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
Gooch said:I did clean the cable with a cotton swap and alcohol as for J103 I did check it the connection is good I put the transport into a stock CD63 I even swapped cables that didn't work. I found a local Marantz service center maybe they can help.
Regards
Dave
Well, if exchanging a good transport in to your troubled player did not work there is no need for buying a new transport.

disco said:
Well, if exchanging a good transport in to your troubled player did not work there is no need for buying a new transport.![]()
Sorry about that but the troubled transport didn't work in either player and the good transport worked in both.
Dave
Gooch said:Sorry about that but the troubled transport didn't work in either player and the good transport worked in both.
Dave
If the stepper motors are alright I'd buy a new optical unit. Should not cost more than $25.
There is a CDM12.4 on e-bay for 33 USD looks a little different then the CDM12 don't know if that will work also haven't found a older player out there that uses the CDM12 yet I will keep looking. If anyone knows where to get one let me know
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
Gooch said:There is a CDM12.4 on e-bay for 33 USD looks a little different then the CDM12 don't know if that will work also haven't found a older player out there that uses the CDM12 yet I will keep looking. If anyone knows where to get one let me know
Thanks Dave
All CDM12 are basically the same and will work fine. Also VAM1201/2 will work fine.
Brent
awpagan said:...
"maintaining the through-print-connections after making a central ground"
Marantz used the top plane as central ground, Large area might help dissapate current pulses.
Still has to find ground somewhere!
allan
You hint at current pulses originating from motors?
Thought Maranz had put up a ground plane to collect as much HF as possible to inject into the audio in a successful attempt to smoothen the sound. 😀
awpagan said:hi guys
time for dump question
has the SM dac for these got a variable output?
eg volume control from the remote
if so
what is the remote's control ID so i can use my programable remote.
allan
ps headphones driven straight off rca's not bad but need to turn down volume
may reconfig buffer for lower impedance 250 Ohm's 😀
The SM5872 features a 128-step linear attenuator (wish I could desolder it), remote controlled in the 63.
Probably the guide acompanying your remote shows a list of brands. Or is this the Central Problem?
Perhaps the coil for the DigOut can be of use for your headphone. Make a stereo autoformer out of it 😀

Aaahgh, really dig this blues album by BB King, especially the duet with Willie Nelson. Hnghhn!
Re: Re: fat lady
Need one of your player too? LOL
SimontY said:Hehe, nice arty pic!
Need one of your player too? LOL
disco said:Saw it coming, not? 🙄
hehe, nice

Brent's had to give it some electric shock therapy, or something!

I'm extremely grateful to Pete for giving his dead player's pcb for parts, especially now as the servo wasn't the only damaged component.

Simon
disco said:Whoops!
What has been damaged?
Not sure to be honest. But it seems the servo took some other parts out with it. Brent's replaced about 4 things now

I feel terrible that it's causing so much work. 🙁
Perhaps it was wiser to switch the complete board, but you never know before trying.
Well, there are mates for. To help one another.
Jaap
Well, there are mates for. To help one another.
Jaap
disco said:Perhaps it was wiser to switch the complete board, but you never know before trying.
Well, there are mates for. To help one another.
Jaap
Hmm, could have been! It is very modded tho. Yes, friends help each other and that is the way forward!

SimontY said:Yes, friends help each other and that is the way forward!![]()
hear hear
disco said:
You hint at current pulses originating from motors?
Thought Maranz had put up a ground plane to collect as much HF as possible to inject into the audio in a successful attempt to smoothen the sound. 😀
The SM5872 features a 128-step linear attenuator (wish I could desolder it), remote controlled in the 63.
Probably the guide acompanying your remote shows a list of brands. Or is this the Central Problem?
Perhaps the coil for the DigOut can be of use for your headphone. Make a stereo autoformer out of it 😀😎
Aaahgh, really dig this blues album by BB King, especially the duet with Willie Nelson. Hnghhn!
hi Jaap
more so caps(power supply) and digital noise.
A lot of audio people said the standard Marantz sounded good?
for the market it is selling too?
As for the remote
bought cd67 secoundhand, no remote or books.
Didn't realise the dac had volume control so the remote was irrelevent, standard philips compatable i already had.
allan
ps things we learn after😀
CD63 Crystal Replacement
Haha... Very true Simon 😉 😀
So... I finally got stuck in and replaced the stock clock crystal with the 5PPM one I ordered. To my amazement, it actually worked once I swapped crystals, as the last time I swapped the crystals, I got a whole lot of unintelligible characters on the display so I swapped the original crystal back. (Later on, and thanks to Brent, it turned out to be a weak 5V supply on the microprocessor pin – unrelated to the crystal).
So these very subjective perceptions only relate to swapping the standard CD63 crystal (~50 PPM??) with a high stability crystal (5PPM). I custom ordered mine from here http://www.rakon.com/models/crystal-search
The first thing that I noticed was the 5PPM crystal did not change the character of the sound… it only made it better. For instance, I could here more texture in the lower mids and voices sounded more “natural”. But something was a miss.
For some reason, the bass was shallower and the treble was not as extended as before. Puzzled, I tried thinking back to what else I had done to the stock crystal, and then it dawned on me… I had grounded the outer can. Also, the new 5PPM crystal didn’t have the rubber damping ring like the old Marantz one did, so I pulled the player apart again and grounded the new crystal’s outer metal sleeve and wrapped it tightly with blu-tac. 
Wow… what a difference!!
I don’t know if it was the damping or the grounding that did it, but the base and treble extension returned in spades!! It sounds even more neutral now, less Hi-Fi. If I hadn’t changed the crystal, I would never have known what was missing, as the player sounded great before…but you have to do it to see what you’re missing!! Now the frequency extremes are arguably greater and the mids are sooo natural. Really good rhythm and timing… and did I mention the neutrality J I could only imagine what a dedicated clock would do… which is now on my list (along with the servo clock mod).
What really got me is the difference grounding the crystal and damping it made. Doing these two things made a greater difference than swapping the standard one with the 5PPM crystal.
So there you have it. To sum up, replacing the stock Marantz crystal with a high-stability crystal (5PPM) that is also grounded and properly damped really does take this player up another notch . I had also implemented the Acoustica clock hack and had a dedicated regulator feeding the stock crystal, so these mods did help the overall sound. Wonder how much more a dedicated clock would do??
Next on the mod list (being performed this long weekend)… Ray’s excellent transistor output stage that will replace my LM6172 opamps and HDAM!
Will let you know how it goes if anyone's interested.
Have a great (mod-ful) weekend guys!
Champi
pantera6 said:
May be useful for those of you who don't intend to get a dedicated clock, but want to take the stock setup as far as it could go
champi
SimontY said:
Stock setup? lol. Not really stock is it? 😉
I'd be interested to hear your findings.
Simon
Haha... Very true Simon 😉 😀
So... I finally got stuck in and replaced the stock clock crystal with the 5PPM one I ordered. To my amazement, it actually worked once I swapped crystals, as the last time I swapped the crystals, I got a whole lot of unintelligible characters on the display so I swapped the original crystal back. (Later on, and thanks to Brent, it turned out to be a weak 5V supply on the microprocessor pin – unrelated to the crystal).
So these very subjective perceptions only relate to swapping the standard CD63 crystal (~50 PPM??) with a high stability crystal (5PPM). I custom ordered mine from here http://www.rakon.com/models/crystal-search
The first thing that I noticed was the 5PPM crystal did not change the character of the sound… it only made it better. For instance, I could here more texture in the lower mids and voices sounded more “natural”. But something was a miss.


Wow… what a difference!!

What really got me is the difference grounding the crystal and damping it made. Doing these two things made a greater difference than swapping the standard one with the 5PPM crystal.

So there you have it. To sum up, replacing the stock Marantz crystal with a high-stability crystal (5PPM) that is also grounded and properly damped really does take this player up another notch . I had also implemented the Acoustica clock hack and had a dedicated regulator feeding the stock crystal, so these mods did help the overall sound. Wonder how much more a dedicated clock would do??
Next on the mod list (being performed this long weekend)… Ray’s excellent transistor output stage that will replace my LM6172 opamps and HDAM!

Have a great (mod-ful) weekend guys!

Champi
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