No voltage on op-amp Q605 pin 1 and 7, 7.23v on pin 1 and 7 on q606, why is the right rca output affected? in you guys honest opinion should i run Nad 1050 DAC (which is on the way) out of optical instead of using my LM6172 op amp upgrade (obviously once i repair the issue) both options running into cambridge azur 840a v2 feeding B&w bookshelf speakers??
For me the opamps are damaged, they are weird voltages between pins 1 and 7 ... I really don't think there should be. If you don't want to go crazy, remove the opamps, remove all four 5 volt power supplies to the DAC, and use the optical output with your new Nad DAC on arrival. The DAC you bought looks really good, and it has no opamp but a very good transistor output stage which is much better.
There is no single answer .. there are too many factors affecting the sound (speakers, amplifier, and then the very important environment... etc...) ... Even the DAC is different in the NAD, it's not just a matter of OPAMPs. If I told you yes or no I would be lying either way and whoever gives you a sure answer is lying too. What I can tell you that I see inside the NAD capacitors WIMA Panasonic, ELNA etc ... so much, much quality. But who sounds better only your ears can decide
fair enough, sounds nice. i want to hear the rcas as i appreciate the awesome sound coming out for its day and then modify that, which is what i will be doing with the modern day DAC. in your opinion will the NAD DAC make the sound be at least at the same level of quality as my upgraded op amps in the analogue Marantz DAC?
I can always just play the rcas from a decent y splitter to get an opinion once the NAD DAC arrives I guess. If using a Y splitter will my sound be exactly the same as have 2 working op amp/dac channels?
+1 about discarding any op amp that has been installed backwards and power applied, especially since it overheated (even momentarily) enough to make a burning epoxy smell. too many IC install removal cycles could cause failure of the PCB traces. if you are considering using the S/PDIF digital out with external DAC or integrated AMP with s/pdif digital input, then you can just remove the op amp and leave the traces open.
Perry from bcae1 is helping me troubleshoot the op amp problems right now
yes have to be careful about the traces, some lifted a lil bit poking the legs out but i flattened them down made sure solder made contact as i already had to remove the new ones once to attach the film capacitor across the op amps, thought i could do it easier while they were on the board. oops. definately going to buy a new lm6172 and install cos i want to do up the DAC thats inside the player anyways. just need to work out what else has gone wrong, theoretically it would have only taken out components in its own path on that one channel right? i could happily just use one channel with a y splitter as this would be undamaged yeah?
yes have to be careful about the traces, some lifted a lil bit poking the legs out but i flattened them down made sure solder made contact as i already had to remove the new ones once to attach the film capacitor across the op amps, thought i could do it easier while they were on the board. oops. definately going to buy a new lm6172 and install cos i want to do up the DAC thats inside the player anyways. just need to work out what else has gone wrong, theoretically it would have only taken out components in its own path on that one channel right? i could happily just use one channel with a y splitter as this would be undamaged yeah?
Agree completely with Mooly. Put the op amp in backwards and it is toast. If by some miracle it works, frame it and put a new one in, but don't even try it.
If you are going to do work on anything and own a soldering iron, why the heck don't you have a 'scope??? It is one of the most basic tools needed, and we should all have one. Analogue scopes work fine and are not expensive. They often work much better for audio than a digital oscilloscope. If you do have a DSO or MSO that isn't expensive, you pretty much do need an analogue scope as well.
Sometimes we make the very worst decisions by trying to save money. Often less than $10 and we can cause much more damage trying to save very little money. Either that or we decide something just has to work right now when it really doesn't. Try to see the big picture.
If you are going to do work on anything and own a soldering iron, why the heck don't you have a 'scope??? It is one of the most basic tools needed, and we should all have one. Analogue scopes work fine and are not expensive. They often work much better for audio than a digital oscilloscope. If you do have a DSO or MSO that isn't expensive, you pretty much do need an analogue scope as well.
Sometimes we make the very worst decisions by trying to save money. Often less than $10 and we can cause much more damage trying to save very little money. Either that or we decide something just has to work right now when it really doesn't. Try to see the big picture.
Hi everyone, I come to you only now, but after reading most of the info you have written in all these years, I am modifying my CD63mkII ki and I would be interested in having the Brent modification file, because the links to download it are not are more active,
does anyone have it by chance?
My mods, following Rey's teachers, are:
Change caps in a power, decoupling, and opamps section.
Added dac's clock and relative PSU;
Disabled HDAM;
Installed new operationals AD49720;
Installation of inductors + ferrites to the IC's power (digital + analog)
reg's modification (12V) with Rayregs.
Sorry for my English...
Thank you very much, and congratulations on your work!
does anyone have it by chance?
My mods, following Rey's teachers, are:
Change caps in a power, decoupling, and opamps section.
Added dac's clock and relative PSU;
Disabled HDAM;
Installed new operationals AD49720;
Installation of inductors + ferrites to the IC's power (digital + analog)
reg's modification (12V) with Rayregs.
Sorry for my English...
Thank you very much, and congratulations on your work!
THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!
Brant did an AMAZING job !!
I don't know if I will be able to repeat such a job ...
But the desire to hear such a modified CD63 is great!
Since I made the changes to mine, I have listened to all my CDs, and a part of heaven that I had never seen opened up!
What a great thing!
I am looking everywhere for BG caps, but I can't find any, what other caps could I use as an alternative? could ELNA SILMIC make up for it?
DIMITRI
Brant did an AMAZING job !!
I don't know if I will be able to repeat such a job ...
But the desire to hear such a modified CD63 is great!
Since I made the changes to mine, I have listened to all my CDs, and a part of heaven that I had never seen opened up!
What a great thing!
I am looking everywhere for BG caps, but I can't find any, what other caps could I use as an alternative? could ELNA SILMIC make up for it?
DIMITRI
Elna Silmics are nice, but to be honest any reliable brand of cap with low ESR and ESL figures will work fine, just have a trawl through some datasheets and be wary of any 'boutique' brands that don't quote ESR/ESL data.
From the mods you've posted already, I'd say the next step would be to have seperate 5V regs for the left and right analogue DAC supplies and DAC digital supply (so 3 in total) would be a good upgrade, Ray's Super Raygulators work perfectly. You will need to cut a couple of traces to seperate the two analogue channel supplies, be careful! The file below is for the +/- 12V versions of the Super Raygulators, for +5V you don't need the zener diodes, just a couple of red LEDs (you may need to play with the LED colours, I bought a cheap bag of mixed LEDs and foud one red, one yellow gave the perfect 5V output). After that you're into re-clocking the servo and having seperate power supply regs for each servo amp chip, plus replacing the resistors and caps in the IV conversion filter between the DAC and the opamps using 0.1% low ppm resistors and polystyrene caps. Both Ray and Mauro changed the filter values slightly to give a different curve around the 20 KHz mark, Ray used the Bessel filter mod and the info on Mauro's tweak is attached. Don't use both filter mods together as that rolls off the highest frequencies a bit too much, this is a case of trying the variants and seeing what you prefer for your system/room/ears/musical tastes. Oh, and upgrading C505 to a decent polystyrene cap is well worth it too - the list goes on!
From the mods you've posted already, I'd say the next step would be to have seperate 5V regs for the left and right analogue DAC supplies and DAC digital supply (so 3 in total) would be a good upgrade, Ray's Super Raygulators work perfectly. You will need to cut a couple of traces to seperate the two analogue channel supplies, be careful! The file below is for the +/- 12V versions of the Super Raygulators, for +5V you don't need the zener diodes, just a couple of red LEDs (you may need to play with the LED colours, I bought a cheap bag of mixed LEDs and foud one red, one yellow gave the perfect 5V output). After that you're into re-clocking the servo and having seperate power supply regs for each servo amp chip, plus replacing the resistors and caps in the IV conversion filter between the DAC and the opamps using 0.1% low ppm resistors and polystyrene caps. Both Ray and Mauro changed the filter values slightly to give a different curve around the 20 KHz mark, Ray used the Bessel filter mod and the info on Mauro's tweak is attached. Don't use both filter mods together as that rolls off the highest frequencies a bit too much, this is a case of trying the variants and seeing what you prefer for your system/room/ears/musical tastes. Oh, and upgrading C505 to a decent polystyrene cap is well worth it too - the list goes on!
Hi Tom,
Sorry for the late reply ...
Also, having looked at the mods for the CD player, man. There are more effective things you can do based on solid engineering that do make a difference. The cap multipliers to not make a "super-regulator". Please. This is just a bunch of junk thrown together from various sources on the internet. But you're having fun. Have at it.
Sorry for the late reply ...
I'll be honest with you. E-I transformers have many superior characteristics compared with a toroid. I would never in a million years replace an E-I core with a toroid.
Also, having looked at the mods for the CD player, man. There are more effective things you can do based on solid engineering that do make a difference. The cap multipliers to not make a "super-regulator". Please. This is just a bunch of junk thrown together from various sources on the internet. But you're having fun. Have at it.
Thanks for the reply, I'm very happy with my player even having only the low jitter clock and op amps but I haven't tweaked it for a few years now and fingers are getting twitchy.....
My system sounds amazing (Marantz CD67OSE, Marantz 6010Ki amplifier, Monitor Audio MA14 Gold speakers) but do 'we' ever reach the holy grale or does it even exist?
My system sounds amazing (Marantz CD67OSE, Marantz 6010Ki amplifier, Monitor Audio MA14 Gold speakers) but do 'we' ever reach the holy grale or does it even exist?
This comprehensive test favours Silmics over BGs.
http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/electrolyticcapacitors.html
Good morning,
i'm sorry if I answer only now, but between my incoming son, work and life, I couldn't before.
Thanks a lot once again for the infos, in these days I will try to create the 5V (super)rayregulator, and insert them in the pcb.
I think I'll start with the +5V D / A of the dac.
Should I do them this way?
I have some questions for the insertion of coaxials instead of the CLOCK SERVO and DAC - DECODER lines,
In your opinion is the 75ohm cable sufficient?
By chance, should I provide resistors in series with the cosaxial?
On purpose,
I have already replaced the C505 with a 2n2f styroflex, the difference seems audible, even if the biggest improvement occurred after the update of the DAC-CLOCK !!!
In the next few days I will keep you informed of the improvements with the new regulators.
Thanks
Take care!
Dimitri
i'm sorry if I answer only now, but between my incoming son, work and life, I couldn't before.
Thanks a lot once again for the infos, in these days I will try to create the 5V (super)rayregulator, and insert them in the pcb.
I think I'll start with the +5V D / A of the dac.
Should I do them this way?
I have some questions for the insertion of coaxials instead of the CLOCK SERVO and DAC - DECODER lines,
In your opinion is the 75ohm cable sufficient?
By chance, should I provide resistors in series with the cosaxial?
On purpose,
I have already replaced the C505 with a 2n2f styroflex, the difference seems audible, even if the biggest improvement occurred after the update of the DAC-CLOCK !!!
In the next few days I will keep you informed of the improvements with the new regulators.
Thanks
Take care!
Dimitri
