No problem stenks, I am glad you like the sound more.
It would be interesting however to know why exactly we experienced lower
sound quality with filter installed, one would expect the opposite.
Regards
Marko
Thought I ought to join in on the fun 
Some 20years ago I had a Marantz CD63KI which followed me for most of this time, however the CD drive (laser) did eventually fail on me. Since then it had been with me a few moves but was eventually lost / tossed. Too bad as it would be a good candidate for further optimising.
Current times, I purchased a CD67 (plain stock) with the intention to do some DIY`ing on it. While I read myself up on electronics and al (I know very little hence the obvious choice to DIY electronics) I have at least added a good pound of Bitumen to the chassis and CD-drive unit. Atleast its gaining weight haha
Since its been many years since I had the 63KI and I recently added the CD67 I do not have "before" impressions of it. The speakers are also new (DIY Line Array, full range) AT any rate, my intention is to try to make this CD player as good as I can get it, within my abilities. I am browsing this looooong thread and get inspired
I have some 1000uF/16V caps in the way, might use a few of those swapping out old ones. Small diameter coax cable is also on its way. I also have a heavy duty power cable/connectors on hand thus removing the old puny one. If it will aid sound I am unsure of, it will look way more cooler though!
Anyways, I will post my questions here as I start tackling them, hope I can find a little guidance
Some 20years ago I had a Marantz CD63KI which followed me for most of this time, however the CD drive (laser) did eventually fail on me. Since then it had been with me a few moves but was eventually lost / tossed. Too bad as it would be a good candidate for further optimising.
Current times, I purchased a CD67 (plain stock) with the intention to do some DIY`ing on it. While I read myself up on electronics and al (I know very little hence the obvious choice to DIY electronics) I have at least added a good pound of Bitumen to the chassis and CD-drive unit. Atleast its gaining weight haha
Since its been many years since I had the 63KI and I recently added the CD67 I do not have "before" impressions of it. The speakers are also new (DIY Line Array, full range) AT any rate, my intention is to try to make this CD player as good as I can get it, within my abilities. I am browsing this looooong thread and get inspired
I have some 1000uF/16V caps in the way, might use a few of those swapping out old ones. Small diameter coax cable is also on its way. I also have a heavy duty power cable/connectors on hand thus removing the old puny one. If it will aid sound I am unsure of, it will look way more cooler though!
Anyways, I will post my questions here as I start tackling them, hope I can find a little guidance
Hi Halair, welcome to this thread!
These players are great fun to work with (if they don't bite back occasionally ;-) and can be improved quite a bit. If you start with some basic upgrades and take it step by step, you'll be fine. There are always folks around here that can help you out if you have any questions.
Regards,
Ray
These players are great fun to work with (if they don't bite back occasionally ;-) and can be improved quite a bit. If you start with some basic upgrades and take it step by step, you'll be fine. There are always folks around here that can help you out if you have any questions.
Regards,
Ray
Thank you Ray.
Last time I had the case open I tried to free the PCB but couldnt find out the CD-Assembly Connection to the part highlighted in yellow
How do I disconnect this without doing damage?
Attachments
Thank you Ray.
Last time I had the case open I tried to free the PCB but couldnt find out the CD-Assembly Connection to the part highlighted in yellow
How do I disconnect this without doing damage?
Insert big flat screwdriver from above in black plastic piece that goes around the green part and turn slightly to disengage.
Regards
Marko
Perfect Marko, will try that
Considered that but wasnt sure how much would be too much and not too keen to find out....
(Ultra-) low ESR caps can cause problems if used directly at the output of some voltage regulators. They can cause stability problems. So i'd rather use 'normal' good caps at the regulator outputs, and only put ultra-low ESR caps directly at the IC pins. That way, the copper trace between the cap and the reg provides some damping. Adding a small series resistor or inductor (which also has some resistance) of a few ohms will also help.
This mostly applies to series-regulators, you should check the datasheet to see what the recommended size of the output cap can be. Some low-drop types are very sensitive to output caps that are too large or too small. Check with an oscilloscope for high-frequency oscillation effects. Most shunt regulators are not bothered by this.
A small parallel ceramic or PPS cap is meant to extend the frequency range of the decoupling combo, but it may cause ringing at high frequencies.
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray
Thanks for the feedback. All my regs are super-regs - a mixture or Class-D, Audiocom and these from eBay TekDevice 5V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator For DAC Preamp | eBay
I've emailed Mark at Audiocom to ask about output caps for his regs but have received no response yet.
I'm using most of the Rubycon ZLH caps suggested in your CD57 mods list but was going to try using lower ESR Nichicon NS caps around the decoder. If a cap has a very low ESR (like 20 mOhm) does it NOT need a PPS 100n bypass then?
Thanks for the feedback. All my regs are super-regs - a mixture or Class-D, Audiocom and these from eBay TekDevice 5V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator For DAC Preamp | eBay
I've emailed Mark at Audiocom to ask about output caps for his regs but have received no response yet.
I'm using most of the Rubycon ZLH caps suggested in your CD57 mods list but was going to try using lower ESR Nichicon NS caps around the decoder. If a cap has a very low ESR (like 20 mOhm) does it NOT need a PPS 100n bypass then?
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Hi,
I don't think you'll need an extra bypass if you place these caps really close to the pins of the IC. That's because a bit of PCB trace or wire lead can easily undo the low-ESR feature because of the added impedance caused by induction, so this is a typical case of YMMV
Ceramic or PPS SMD caps are still King of Decoupling in my opinion, because they have a much lower series inductance. They have virtually no leads, and don't have a wound construction. They are small, and can be placed at the underside of the board, fairly close to the IC pins. That's why I often choose an electrolytic with a bit higher ESR and then use an SMD cap to finish it off. I guess you could try it with and without extra decoupling and see what sounds best.
Regards,
Ray
I don't think you'll need an extra bypass if you place these caps really close to the pins of the IC. That's because a bit of PCB trace or wire lead can easily undo the low-ESR feature because of the added impedance caused by induction, so this is a typical case of YMMV
Ceramic or PPS SMD caps are still King of Decoupling in my opinion, because they have a much lower series inductance. They have virtually no leads, and don't have a wound construction. They are small, and can be placed at the underside of the board, fairly close to the IC pins. That's why I often choose an electrolytic with a bit higher ESR and then use an SMD cap to finish it off. I guess you could try it with and without extra decoupling and see what sounds best.
Regards,
Ray
Gee, this thread has gone quiet. Happy New Year all (bit late I know)! Could someone please post a link to Ray's DOS board circuit diagram (CFP version and Output Current Sink)? I can't access it through Ray's site for some reason.
I know that this link has been posted previously but I can't find it.
Thanks in advance.
I know that this link has been posted previously but I can't find it.
Thanks in advance.
like this guy did? Marantz CD 57/67 tweakings is this the best practise way?
Lets say I would replace all the signal traces from servoboard to mainboard (flat connector) with coaxcables. Wouldn't I create several returnpathes respectively ground loops? Of course the resistance could be almost equal...