4real said:ah well, It works, so I guess it will be OK. The DAC will probably reclock everything to his own clock and will not care about how the data is delivered (within limits of course).
Essentially this is true when data is considered, but lower jitter in the SPDIF stream means lower jitter in the recovered clock inside the DAC. Remember any PLL is an attenuator, less garbage in - less garbage out.
I haven't found any DAC yet that is fully insensitive to its' SPDIF input.
best
Well, here's my clock:
It has both an inverted and non inverted output. I'm going to check it first on my work tomorrow before I put it in. I know me
I also already changed the opams to AD8620, replaced the KA regulators for MC types. Those are four times less noisy. Replace the big caps with 4700 uF Panasonic FC's, and the smaller ones, after the regulators and by the opamps, and DAC with 220 uF 25 V rubbicon ZL. I also replace the rectifier diodes with schottky's. I also bypassed the elco's at the opamps with a 100nF ceramic cap, and also the diodes.
I notice a slightly better bass performance, and it appears to have more detail and seems quieter. But it's to ba that I don't have any reference (unmodded version) to compare with. I bet part of it is just my mind playing tricks with me![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It has both an inverted and non inverted output. I'm going to check it first on my work tomorrow before I put it in. I know me
![smash :smash: :smash:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/smash.gif)
I also already changed the opams to AD8620, replaced the KA regulators for MC types. Those are four times less noisy. Replace the big caps with 4700 uF Panasonic FC's, and the smaller ones, after the regulators and by the opamps, and DAC with 220 uF 25 V rubbicon ZL. I also replace the rectifier diodes with schottky's. I also bypassed the elco's at the opamps with a 100nF ceramic cap, and also the diodes.
I notice a slightly better bass performance, and it appears to have more detail and seems quieter. But it's to ba that I don't have any reference (unmodded version) to compare with. I bet part of it is just my mind playing tricks with me
Well, the clock seems to work:
The invertor output looks about the same (though inverted), so I guess the swings have more to do with the scope wirering..
I'm going to put it in later this evening.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The invertor output looks about the same (though inverted), so I guess the swings have more to do with the scope wirering..
I'm going to put it in later this evening.
I'v got it hooked up now! And it works ![Big grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, it's hard to say what the sound is like. It was good before, and is good now. But with my headphones I think I notice that everything comes more loose from the headphones. It's as if the sound is not comming directly from the speakers. Sounds more natual. The rest is basicly the same I guess. It's to bad that I don't have any unmodded player to check the difference though. I'm alway's highly suspicious with these kinds of tweaks ![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
4real said:Well, it's hard to say what the sound is like. It was good before, and is good now. But with my headphones I think I notice that everything comes more loose from the headphones. It's as if the sound is not comming directly from the speakers. Sounds more natual. The rest is basicly the same I guess. It's to bad that I don't have any unmodded player to check the difference though. I'm alway's highly suspicious with these kinds of tweaks![]()
Hi
Good to see all works like intended. Bear in mind that digital gear needs some days to run in again. Did you check the mains chord polarisation as well ?
best
4real said:
there are 2 orientations to plug the mains plug in the wall, they both sound different.......
cheers
Guido Tent said:
there are 2 orientations to plug the mains plug in the wall, they both sound different.......
cheers
Only in countries with non-polarised mains supply !!
EC8010 said:Depends on where you took the 12V from; I took mine from close to the regulator, but if you took yours from near the op-amps, that might cause a noise problem.
The + is very close to the regulator, the earth I took from a via near the DAC.
I could also take it at the big caps I guess (so before any regulator) , but the 7808 will get a bit hotter then I guess, but it should work just fine. I'll try tonight.
4real said:It might sound strage, but after the clockmod, it's as if the improved bass detail and response that were there after I replace the opamps are gone. I took the 12V supply voltage from the positive supply of the opamps. Could this have something to do with it?
Never take the clock supply from the analog section/supply of your player!
![attention :att'n: :att'n:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/attention.gif)
Elso Kwak said:Never take the clock supply from the analog section/supply of your player!![]()
I could have guesst that
![smash :smash: :smash:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/smash.gif)
I'll take it from the PSU cap's before the regs then. I guess that should be okay? There is no other point to get it from. Or should I use a seperate supply al together?
4real said:I could have guesst that![]()
I'll take it from the PSU cap's before the regs then. I guess that should be okay? There is no other point to get it from.
No take it from the raw DIGITAL supply of your player. Usually around +9V
I do not advocate using a separate supply but most clock mongers do.
![clown :clown: :clown:](https://files.diyaudio.com/forums/images/smilies/clown.gif)
Elso Kwak said:
No take it from the raw DIGITAL supply of your player. Usually around +9V
![]()
Ah yes. Now I see. I thought they were all supplied from the same transformer coil, but they are not I see now.
Thanks Elso!
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