I took the photo at night, wasn't the best lighting but yes, there is oily ( wet) secretions and not flux residue. Also the top of the cap to the right is bulging , convex shaped.
Hi Tom, the amp is actually operable despite the issues. I just want to make things right before I do anything else.
There seems to be a quite good selection available for 50/63V range - just select by the diameter and length (and soldering possibility) from Mouser, Farnell etc and done you are.
It may be hard to find replacement capacitors with solder terminals. It shouldn't be a big deal to find some with screw terminals, though. They tend to be sorta expensive but could be a good solution.
Tom
Tom
Possibly. I'm not sure I'd trust snap-in types with the heavy terminations shown in the picture.
Tom
Tom
The caps look clamped into place within the amplifier itself so I can't see the termination style mattering so long as you can get reliable connections to them.
Just make sure the new caps are the right dimensions so that they also get clamped rigidly.
Just make sure the new caps are the right dimensions so that they also get clamped rigidly.
Thank you all. I have noticed that newer caps will be smaller. Surprisingly though, there is a parts kit available on Ebay that includes the power caps and the seller claims the diameter is the same as the originals , but shorter in length. However the values of those caps are 150000uf and 50V which I believe should work without any problems. I ordered a new switch from the same vendor and will give an update after it is installed. A member over in Audiokarma.org was kind to submit a photo of the switch in the amplifier and it does show the two "suspicious" wires attached to it.
DVM is your friend.
in addition, the polarity must be marked on the envelope of the capacitors or on the metal tab side, sometimes with a triangle, a circle or a square, a black or white dot but it is always indicated, but in all cases, the DVM is your friend.
in addition, the polarity must be marked on the envelope of the capacitors or on the metal tab side, sometimes with a triangle, a circle or a square, a black or white dot but it is always indicated, but in all cases, the DVM is your friend.
Sure is! So I did some continuity tests and I am pretty sure I got it right. Just that there seems to be mistakes on some Marantz schematics , maybe not this one but hey , sure is nice to get confirmation.
Wait a bit, do I need new glasses or is the left lug of the right capacitor disconnected?
Or is it soldered to chassis ground?
Or is it soldered to chassis ground?
You don't need glasses , you are right! I lifted the cap hoping to see if there were any markings on the underside and the solder joint to chassis ground detached! Good catch!
There should be a red dot (+) or - more commonly - a black dot (-) on the rivets that hold the solder tab on the cap. Sometimes the polarity is indicated by a different texture. If so, it should say on the can which terminal is which.
But ya know... If the amp mostly works, you could also just power it up and measure the voltage across the supply caps. That'll tell you for sure. If I were to guess I'd say that the red wires connect to the (+) terminal of the one cap (V+ supply). That means the white wires would be the V- supply.
Tom
But ya know... If the amp mostly works, you could also just power it up and measure the voltage across the supply caps. That'll tell you for sure. If I were to guess I'd say that the red wires connect to the (+) terminal of the one cap (V+ supply). That means the white wires would be the V- supply.
Tom
There are two letters stamped on the rivets at the base of the cap, A and B for each cap and that A is silver colored and B is black. Based on the schematic it seems the silver colored tabs are positive and the black tabs negative.
Solder ring terminals on to the snap-in lugs - TE Connectivity Ring Terminals, Mouser 571-32185 or -
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/31089/333464
snap-in cap ring terminal pic 1
snap in cap ring terminal pic 2