Vikash said:
Not at home at the moment, but I should be able to give you an update on Sunday, after 100hrs 🙂
For my main design, I must admit to being tempted to try a compound, (isobarik), ported design. Although I have made standard Isobariks before, ported is one of the few designs I have never tried, and a few quick experiments look interesting. Tweeters will probably be the Turbosound badged Audax I already have, or maybe the F3s winging their way over the Atlantic via BP, I really need to get down and measure them, (when I find the time!).
Al, the tweeters have finished flying for now, as I got them just yesterday so you should be able to get them soon.
I haven't had a chance to try anything out with mine yet though, as the parts for the crossover from audiocom still haven't turned up (I ordered them last thursday too, so I'm quite dissapointed).
I haven't had a chance to try anything out with mine yet though, as the parts for the crossover from audiocom still haven't turned up (I ordered them last thursday too, so I'm quite dissapointed).
Cool, tell us how much you want for postage and stuff and I'll get it in the post, but no rush, (on your part!) as I won't be able to do much with them for a week or so.😉
running in.........
If i wanted to run in my speakers before installation into my cabinets what options are available to me without alot of expense?
M
If i wanted to run in my speakers before installation into my cabinets what options are available to me without alot of expense?
M
Assuming that you can get an amplifier connected up the soundcards outputs on your computer, then you can d/l a signal generator program that will produce a 30hz sine wave or similar. Then just connect the lil speakers up to the amp and leave it going over night for a week or so. Because these are small drivers and outofbox you wont be able to hear a thing.
I haven't got home to check on specs for my drivers running in yet, so I'll have to postpone it for a few days. But it will be happening! 🙂
I've got some spare Yamaha 2-way speakers that came with a micro system and was wondering whether the tweeters could be suitable for this project. They are 1" fabric dome, magnetically shielded and look quite nice.
I've spent ages analyzing the crossover (which is probably dead simple to some of you 😀 ), and I've attached a diagram with the component values. Hopefully someone can tell me what the crossover point is to give me a starting point.
It looks like Yamaha manufactured the tweeter, so not much info to be found. Any input?
I've spent ages analyzing the crossover (which is probably dead simple to some of you 😀 ), and I've attached a diagram with the component values. Hopefully someone can tell me what the crossover point is to give me a starting point.
It looks like Yamaha manufactured the tweeter, so not much info to be found. Any input?
Attachments
Hi Vikash,
Until a calculator-lover helps you out, I'll guess at around 5khz for the tweeter, and a little lower for the woofer.
I think it's normal to leave a gap in the presence zone, to avoid harshness from crap electronics and recordings. Plus, maybe they're crossed over like that to allow for a rising response caused by the woofer's breakup.
Someone will know how to work it out 🙂
Until a calculator-lover helps you out, I'll guess at around 5khz for the tweeter, and a little lower for the woofer.
I think it's normal to leave a gap in the presence zone, to avoid harshness from crap electronics and recordings. Plus, maybe they're crossed over like that to allow for a rising response caused by the woofer's breakup.
Someone will know how to work it out 🙂
5th element said:
A) An excellent freeware signal generator is available on David and Cecilia Taylor's homepage at
www.satsignal.net Go to Audio Tools
Just click "wide" for Frequency Range, and then click "No Sweep" for Frequency Sweep. Then where it says "20" in the box, fill in whatever frequency you wish. Illustration below.
B) If you have a more advanced sound card that has speaker level outputs, like with 2 or 3 watts or more, you don't even ned an amplifier. Just hook the speakers directly up to the sound card. I have an old Sound Blaster with a four watt output in the speaker output. Cables to connect should be quite cheap-just use a cord with a stereo 1/8" plug on one end, Walkman style, open wire on the other-or you can buy 1/8" to 1/8" extension cord and cut off one end. Use the same ground wire for both channels.
Attachments
Thanks kelticwizard just the thing i am after.
Running in will start tomorrow, my tweeters have arrived as has the material for the cabs.
What was measnt to be light relief from study has progressed to a distraction now...... I seem to spend as much time designing a fifty quid speaker as to my studies 😀
week and a half till exam day arrrgggghhhhh....
Is the MTM arrangment the prefered method for a two woofer and tweeter layout from aesthetics or a sound point of view?
My tweeter is larger than the woofer and am cading up different designs but thought i ought to check before finalising designs. i6t looks a little "odd" at the moment.
Also does the port location have an effect on sound, front, back middle, top, bottom?
m
Running in will start tomorrow, my tweeters have arrived as has the material for the cabs.
What was measnt to be light relief from study has progressed to a distraction now...... I seem to spend as much time designing a fifty quid speaker as to my studies 😀
week and a half till exam day arrrgggghhhhh....
Is the MTM arrangment the prefered method for a two woofer and tweeter layout from aesthetics or a sound point of view?
My tweeter is larger than the woofer and am cading up different designs but thought i ought to check before finalising designs. i6t looks a little "odd" at the moment.
Also does the port location have an effect on sound, front, back middle, top, bottom?
m
question questions questions......
In additon to the above, when you are working out the volume of the cabinet do you need to take into account the volume taken up by the deadening material. I propose to use industrial spec carpet tiles on the walls or do you ignore this. They hard backing is about 5mm and the pile a further 4mm.
M
In additon to the above, when you are working out the volume of the cabinet do you need to take into account the volume taken up by the deadening material. I propose to use industrial spec carpet tiles on the walls or do you ignore this. They hard backing is about 5mm and the pile a further 4mm.
M
Re: question questions questions......
If it's a sealed design it doesn't matter. If it's ported then you might want to work out roughly what the hard bit will be taking up, and add that to the port volume, driver displacement, bracing (if any) and any other significant bits in the box. The pile I'd ignore, maybe put some cream on that....
I wouldn't have thought the carpet volume will be significant, but working with such a small volume, it's surely wise to do it right, mainly for peace of mind.
edit: now I see it's a ported design, oops.
Hi,D1GGY said:
If it's a sealed design it doesn't matter. If it's ported then you might want to work out roughly what the hard bit will be taking up, and add that to the port volume, driver displacement, bracing (if any) and any other significant bits in the box. The pile I'd ignore, maybe put some cream on that....
I wouldn't have thought the carpet volume will be significant, but working with such a small volume, it's surely wise to do it right, mainly for peace of mind.
edit: now I see it's a ported design, oops.
MTM is used for a two-way, but after experiencing the [potentially] upfront, unnatural mid-range sound of these, I'd say you want to make what some call 2.5 way. You use the 2nd woofer for bass only, crossing it in at about 400hz. This boosting occurs at those frequencies which are lacking in presence, due to not being reinforced by the front baffle. This is the baffle step effect, and one way to 'compensate' for it. Without doing so the sound will likely be a bit tinny and cold.D1GGY said:
This will give you a natural warm sound, and both bass drivers are used for bass, which I'd say is necessary with such small cone area.
As for ports, I don't think it matters, just as long as it's an even distance from each driver. The back might make more sense, as midrange leakage will be firing away rather than toward you. Also, the depth of the cabinet will mean room gain effects are different for port output and driver output, which may be a good thing... really though, who knows!!
D1GGY said:What was measnt to be light relief from study has progressed to a distraction now...... I seem to spend as much time designing a fifty quid speaker as to my studies 😀
week and a half till exam day arrrgggghhhhh....
Ive got my first GCSE exam next wednesday, and I seem to be spending more time designing various things and reading this excelent forum than actually revising.
I really cant think of what to do with my AP100ZOs and TM025F1s. Ported, or dipole, or maybe something else...
Whatever it is I decide, it will have to wait for a while, for the above reason.
Matt,
where would i put the ".5" woofer ??
T
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i was thinking of an MTM layout but with a crossover for 2.5.. Or owuld this be detrimental to the sound.
Thanks for the advice with regard to the enclosure volume.
M
where would i put the ".5" woofer ??
T
W
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or
W
T
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i was thinking of an MTM layout but with a crossover for 2.5.. Or owuld this be detrimental to the sound.
Thanks for the advice with regard to the enclosure volume.
M
The best place for the .5 woofer is actually on the back of the cabinet. Planet10 does this I think and likes the arrangement. It makes good technical sense to mount the .5 woofer on the rear however.
I don't think it would be a problem, but if the tweeter was at the top it would be closer to the edge of the box, which some would consider as a good thing. Just think of those pod mounted tweeters that Kef, B&W and Monitor do and have done...D1GGY said:
Good techincal sense for a sub driver! But wouldn't you be concerned about those frequencies from ~500-100hz or so that are coming from the rear woofer?5th element said:
Still, it would be really nice from a vibration POV, and maybe those frequencies firing away would add ambience to the sound. Plus - how cool would it be when someone looks round the back to see the port or whatever... and they see a driver!! 😎
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