I have a plan to use a 24VDC 6.5A power adapter for two channels of this Lufo lite.
As you know, DC connector has no connector for earth grounding to be connected X141.
Is it possible to use a VCD power adapter without earth grounding?
Do I must to use a SMPS? What is proper wattage of SMPS for two channels?
As you know, DC connector has no connector for earth grounding to be connected X141.
Is it possible to use a VCD power adapter without earth grounding?
Do I must to use a SMPS? What is proper wattage of SMPS for two channels?
Schematic shows the dissipations based on 1.7A bias current. Power dissipated = 24v x 1.7A = 41W per channel. Stereo is 82W.
24v x 6.5A is 156W. So 82W is about 1/2 capacity so your PSU should be sufficient. It would be good to decouple the two channels with separate CRCs to improve stereo separation.
You can use SMPS without ground to DC 0v. Linear PSU can work too.
24v x 6.5A is 156W. So 82W is about 1/2 capacity so your PSU should be sufficient. It would be good to decouple the two channels with separate CRCs to improve stereo separation.
You can use SMPS without ground to DC 0v. Linear PSU can work too.
It has been almost done to power this up.
I used gtose adjustable single rail capmx and it has 20VDC output from a 24VDC SMPS power brick.
And I used a 12V 20W halogen bulb as xrk971 did.
I have some questions.
When the pin hole '1' X141 is connected to the heatsink with a standoff, these 2, 3, 4, 5 pins are short to the heatsink.
is it ok that the X141 has been connected to the heatsink?
Do these C122, C123 need to be all solldered? ... or one of both?
I used gtose adjustable single rail capmx and it has 20VDC output from a 24VDC SMPS power brick.
And I used a 12V 20W halogen bulb as xrk971 did.
I have some questions.
When the pin hole '1' X141 is connected to the heatsink with a standoff, these 2, 3, 4, 5 pins are short to the heatsink.
is it ok that the X141 has been connected to the heatsink?
Do these C122, C123 need to be all solldered? ... or one of both?
Attachments
One or the other. If you have the through hole silver mica I would use that.
The amp has a cap multiplier and CRC PSU built in already. You don’t need that extra one between the PSU and the amp unless you wanted extra voltage drop.
The amp has a cap multiplier and CRC PSU built in already. You don’t need that extra one between the PSU and the amp unless you wanted extra voltage drop.
The amp has a cap multiplier and CRC PSU built in already.
<= I see, What have I done till now 😳.
<= I see, What have I done till now 😳.
I don't have any special knowledge about electronics.
I'm just following the guides that all of you have made.
I removed the added capmx from my system and power it up with dim bulb tester.
I've used a dim bulb tester at first powering any new building amp up.
It shows strange dimming-brighting-dimming-brighting cycle.
I can't go further with this situation.
Is it normal to this amp? or am I in any trouble?
I'm just following the guides that all of you have made.
I removed the added capmx from my system and power it up with dim bulb tester.
I've used a dim bulb tester at first powering any new building amp up.
It shows strange dimming-brighting-dimming-brighting cycle.
I can't go further with this situation.
Is it normal to this amp? or am I in any trouble?
Attachments
The SMPS power brick has turned on-off and on-off with the dim builb tester.
So .. I powered it up without the dim bulb tester ... then halogen bulb became so bright.
It works.
It seems that it goes into stabilization in about 1 minute after power-on.
I checked the voltages of test points.
P121 - P122 : 18.45V
P121 - P123 : 12.32V
DC output of speaker terminal started at about 600mV and ended at 0.7mV during stabilization.
I didn't connect this with a source device yet.
My preamp is in trouble.
Does this amp require a powerful preamp like AKSA Lender preamp too?
So .. I powered it up without the dim bulb tester ... then halogen bulb became so bright.
It works.
It seems that it goes into stabilization in about 1 minute after power-on.
I checked the voltages of test points.
P121 - P122 : 18.45V
P121 - P123 : 12.32V
DC output of speaker terminal started at about 600mV and ended at 0.7mV during stabilization.
I didn't connect this with a source device yet.
My preamp is in trouble.
Does this amp require a powerful preamp like AKSA Lender preamp too?
Attachments
I am into Lu1014d these days. I want to build a 1 watt max only amp without cascode. Into 8 ohm It needs 8Vpp, but from my test results, Lu1014d have very limited capability to swing large enough Vds. How can make output swing 8Vpp with less than 5 volts Vgs swing for LU1014D? I thought of a balanced input idea, is this any good?
How to improve it? I need Lu1014D to work within roughly Vgs -0.6~-1.3V Vds 0.5-6.5V. Further more, the curve shifts left if hotter, So better got good cooling to loose less available Vds.
How to improve it? I need Lu1014D to work within roughly Vgs -0.6~-1.3V Vds 0.5-6.5V. Further more, the curve shifts left if hotter, So better got good cooling to loose less available Vds.
Yes, this amp is zero gain so you need a preamp that can swing as much as you want it to achieve the output to drive a speaker. Aksa Lender is a good choice as well as BTSB. In balanced output mode, BTSB can swing 53vpp.
Have a look at the tracer curve the problem is lu1014d cannot work with high vgs. not input voltage. a input over 1 volt pp will fully drive lu1014d