The Adcom 555 that I heard recently at a friend’s house has a low level mains hum. That drives me nuts. I’m picky about that sort of thing. Not sure if that’s intrinsic in the design as it has a simple linear PSU with big caps.
The Akitika LM3886 based amplifier kit is within budget and I think will sound great with this speaker. It also has a regulated PSU so should be very quiet.
You might look into a 100w class D amp from SMSL or Topping.
The Akitika LM3886 based amplifier kit is within budget and I think will sound great with this speaker. It also has a regulated PSU so should be very quiet.
You might look into a 100w class D amp from SMSL or Topping.
I'm considering them as well. What is the finish like on the 'leather' , is it a nice quality vinyl? What size room are you using them in. Mine is about 9 x12ft
Hi, mine were nice, not a high end leather but a nice grained, look great with the grills off - same size room, with them close to wall and one in a corner. The bass is awesome, I listed to music without a lot of bass so I really like the sound as it kinda "eq ed" my sound to exactly what I wanted, much better than expected.
I do recommend a long burn in, I let mine play for a few weeks before really sitting to listen. The treble was the only issue based on my system, music. When A/B'd with others the 50's had a rolled back high but that was less fatiguing and I tend to like detailed highs but this really hit a sweet spot for me. I run them with mono block Schiit Aegirs, Schiit Freya + preamp. CD through Denafrips Ares II dac....I have a ton of speakers ( my weakness) I found them so good that If my only pair I'd be happy, I do have the new 80s which I haven't tried yet but bought on the recommendation that they are a step up, same designer ( thank you) and I also have a LSA Warp one class D amp that I A/B'd at length against the Aegirs mono blocked and surprise it was very difficult to hear a difference. Again the same designer and I'm very happy. Stopped my endless gear quest...If I had a wish it would be for the warp ones to able to Monoblock and a way to disable the led when on as I leave them on all the time. Perfect match for the speakers, most any speaker really.
I could have saved a lot of money if these products existed 20yrs ago....now I have a lot of gear to sell 🙂
I do recommend a long burn in, I let mine play for a few weeks before really sitting to listen. The treble was the only issue based on my system, music. When A/B'd with others the 50's had a rolled back high but that was less fatiguing and I tend to like detailed highs but this really hit a sweet spot for me. I run them with mono block Schiit Aegirs, Schiit Freya + preamp. CD through Denafrips Ares II dac....I have a ton of speakers ( my weakness) I found them so good that If my only pair I'd be happy, I do have the new 80s which I haven't tried yet but bought on the recommendation that they are a step up, same designer ( thank you) and I also have a LSA Warp one class D amp that I A/B'd at length against the Aegirs mono blocked and surprise it was very difficult to hear a difference. Again the same designer and I'm very happy. Stopped my endless gear quest...If I had a wish it would be for the warp ones to able to Monoblock and a way to disable the led when on as I leave them on all the time. Perfect match for the speakers, most any speaker really.
I could have saved a lot of money if these products existed 20yrs ago....now I have a lot of gear to sell 🙂
Thanks! Always good to hear from someone who is using them in the real world. I was thinking about the 80's but wondered if they were too much for a small room vs the 50's. Running B&W CDM1 NT's now.
Thank you for the kind words. Sorry about the LED being too bright. Try a black sharpie on the red one. I’ll see if I can adjust brightness of LED on future batch.
There is a way to monoblock the Warp-1 if you are interested. It involves flipping a DIP switch inside and changing one of the wires leading from buffer to the amp. Then connecting output to specific binding posts. But so you really need to drive 2ohm speaker?
Hi and thanks! I thought about buying another to mono block for more power if possible, they certainly get loud, I do have some 4 ohm speakers that like power....if possible that would be great, I'd assume the power rating to increase as well(?)
In mono block parallel bridge tied load (PBTL) mode, it doubles the current capability but not the voltage. So the power only increases if the load impedance drops (2ohms etc). If 8ohms, no change in power. There is a difference from single ended (SE) output vs bridge tied load (BTL) as the power does go up since rails are effectively doubled.
Sorry thrones 🙂 the ones I saw on Ali and Newbecca looked similar. I assume the sides are real wood..
Attachments
That does look similar. The cabinet is MDF based and finished with a covering. Tough to have real solid wood for $499.
Is it a vinyl type wood grain or a thin wood veneer. I assume the black surface is a nice grade vinyl? Saw they went up $100 on their website.
The cost is so reasonable buying direct from Walter, I would go to him rather than taking a chance that it's the same.
Only the LSA Signature 50 from Underwood HiFi will have been designed by me with my crossover and driver selections. A speaker from another company may have a similar looking cabinet and finish, but will not not be the same speaker with an inverted Harsch transient perfect passive crossover and optimized components.
Agreed the knock off will be just that. I assume that is where the cabinets were sourced are they assembled there as well. Did you have any input into the Signature 10 line?
Cheers!
Cheers!
No, I did not design the Signature 10. However, I am working on the Signature 100. It will have a ribbon tweeter and a 6.5in XBL licensed aluminum woofer. There is a racetrack shaped passive radiator on the back. The theoretical crossover work is coming along and is starting to take shape.
My lab assistant, is busy inspecting the cabinet and suggests we replace the ribbon with the Cat’s Meow tweeter which sounds much more organic and natural. 🙂
My lab assistant, is busy inspecting the cabinet and suggests we replace the ribbon with the Cat’s Meow tweeter which sounds much more organic and natural. 🙂
Akitika preamps are now available. Akitika is discontinuing the GT-102 due to unavailability of the LM3886 chip. I hear a new amp will be designated GT-104, but product development is still continuing.