This was the first power supply I thought about using...
It seems as though a Hammond 269AX transformer would work. I think... It puts out +125-0--125, and then when it goes to the rectifier, I get 250VDC, right? It is only $37 at Digi-Key, too, so it can probably be found for less...
On this same power supply, since it puts out 230V, couldn't I just add a resistor, or raise a resistor value to get the 220V I need?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It seems as though a Hammond 269AX transformer would work. I think... It puts out +125-0--125, and then when it goes to the rectifier, I get 250VDC, right? It is only $37 at Digi-Key, too, so it can probably be found for less...
On this same power supply, since it puts out 230V, couldn't I just add a resistor, or raise a resistor value to get the 220V I need?
http://www.hammondmfg.com/263.htm
I think this has it... I couldn't get the link to work for Digi-Key, btu it can be found for $30 at Angela Instruments as well.
I think this has it... I couldn't get the link to work for Digi-Key, btu it can be found for $30 at Angela Instruments as well.
I am having troubles with resistors again... It is stated that all resistors that are not marked should be 1/2W. Is this necessary? I cannot find any 1M ohm resistors that are 1/2W and 1% tolerance. I am guessing 1% is far better than the standard 5%... so that is why I ask. Is 1/4W sufficient all the way around except those marked with special watt ratings?
trespasser_guy,
IMO 5% is accurate enough for this.
To the best of my knowledge, resistors above 1M are not available in close tolerance.
Regarding wattage: Because higher power resistors are physically bigger, they generally have higher voltage ratings. For that reason, I'd chose 1W over 1/2W for any resistors with volts across them.
Cheers,
IMO 5% is accurate enough for this.
To the best of my knowledge, resistors above 1M are not available in close tolerance.
Regarding wattage: Because higher power resistors are physically bigger, they generally have higher voltage ratings. For that reason, I'd chose 1W over 1/2W for any resistors with volts across them.
Cheers,
Hi,
5.16$/EA, is expensive for a student.
An alternative (though not as quiet) is UF4007 ($0.25).
http://www.mouser.com//index.cfm?handler=fra_pdfset&pdffile=63
Your choice...
Cheers,
5.16$/EA, is expensive for a student.
An alternative (though not as quiet) is UF4007 ($0.25).
http://www.mouser.com//index.cfm?handler=fra_pdfset&pdffile=63
Your choice...
Cheers,
I am kind of curious to know... what made the second circuit better than the first?
And is this one better or worse? http://headwize2.powerpill.org/projects/showproj.php?file=waarde1_prj.htm
And is this one better or worse? http://headwize2.powerpill.org/projects/showproj.php?file=waarde1_prj.htm
CURIOUS.
Hi,
Don't worry,it's a healthy attitude.
First of all,why use // tubes when you don't need them?
The second circuit will drive the most ridiculously low impedance,hence it would be better suited for the low impedance type of cans.
I know the capabilities of the White CF when it comes to that,so I feel comfortable recommending it.
That's actually my favourite of the lot although I would use the 6C19PI nowadays to make it more compact and in line with the noval input tube,which I would replace with a 6N1P BTW to keep cost down.
At the end of the day the choice is yours of course,
Hi,
Don't worry,it's a healthy attitude.
First of all,why use // tubes when you don't need them?
The second circuit will drive the most ridiculously low impedance,hence it would be better suited for the low impedance type of cans.
I know the capabilities of the White CF when it comes to that,so I feel comfortable recommending it.
That's actually my favourite of the lot although I would use the 6C19PI nowadays to make it more compact and in line with the noval input tube,which I would replace with a 6N1P BTW to keep cost down.
At the end of the day the choice is yours of course,
I am just not sure which way to go... each has their pluses and minuses to me- something I don't understand about.
On the one by Waarde, it says to note that C1, R5, and C2 are shared by both channels. How does this work? Just basically add C1-R5-C2 to the power supply and then run a wire to each channel?
I am not too fond of havig to use an IC in the heater supply either... or a pot for that matter. Could I use the hater supply from another amp for this one?
On the one by Waarde, it says to note that C1, R5, and C2 are shared by both channels. How does this work? Just basically add C1-R5-C2 to the power supply and then run a wire to each channel?
I am not too fond of havig to use an IC in the heater supply either... or a pot for that matter. Could I use the hater supply from another amp for this one?
IN DUBIO.
Hi,
I'd welcome someone elses' opinion on this too,I can only recommend what I feel is the most versatile of the lot.
I'm not too sure what is meant by his comment here but I would certainly advise against sharing these components for both channels.
Just use all components for B+ in the same way for right and left channel starting after the choke.
You could,OTOH I don't see anything scary about it though and using regulated DC here would help S/N.
There are different ways to go about it,the major problem being the hefty heater current needed by the 6AS7G: 2.5 A.
Cheers,
Hi,
I'd welcome someone elses' opinion on this too,I can only recommend what I feel is the most versatile of the lot.
I'm not too sure what is meant by his comment here but I would certainly advise against sharing these components for both channels.
Just use all components for B+ in the same way for right and left channel starting after the choke.
You could,OTOH I don't see anything scary about it though and using regulated DC here would help S/N.
There are different ways to go about it,the major problem being the hefty heater current needed by the 6AS7G: 2.5 A.
Cheers,
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