Looking for a Subwoofer Driver

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#41
paulspencer said:
Altor, I'd suggest a new thread for this 😉

There are 2 ways you can go with this:

1. add a sub for more depth and output
2. biamped stereo woofers under your main speakers

You have described something more like #2, but you used the word "sub."
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Yea, I've used "Sub", but speak about LF-part of the 3-way speakers 🙂
Biamping - is considered.

I would make a box to match your mains and use a pair of 8" or 10" woofers like those you described, whichever can fit with the width of your mains without looking too chunky. Use an active crossover at 200 - 300 Hz and you will find improvements in the midrange and the overall dynamics of your system as well as more and deeper bass.
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I prefere to use single wooofer in each box, and make crossover at 100Hz.
It doesn't matter active or passive - at first I'll try to make passive 1st order X-over to the woofer, and if I'll close the vent at the 2-way part (i.e. go from VEnt to Close Box) it would have -3dB at 120HZ, so I'll not need high-pass filter for it!

If I'll be not happy with passive X-over, I'' build special LF-amplifier (lm3886 based) for woofer, and leeve my SE to the higher frequencies.

Again - biamping is considered, probably with equalization or/and negative output impedance? but only if the passive solution will not satisfied me 🙂

I think this is probably the way to go rather than a single sub, as he has commented that he is happy with them in a smaller room. This suggests he is just missing out on a bit of output and a bit of room lift he has probably lost. A sub can always be added afterwards.
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#42
Stupid question

Should I use a low pass after the LT or before the LT or no low pass at all?
Because I have to make the pcb for it and I have no ideea...
I used a bit of everything...
True Audio, Rod , my basic electronic knowledge and I need to finish the pcb this week.
Thank you.
 
#43
red said:
Hy guys the version of winisd I used was the last and i had those problem...
Anyway I finally had the money, and the nerve to buy the Magnat. I made a box just for test(i got prety much equivalent for mdf), that is very close to what the producer recommends and to tell u the truth i was a bit disapointed.It has indeed a very powerful kick (every thing rattles) but i think it lacks something I have no ideea what to call it...perhaps delay...
I mean it makes boom instead of booooooom.
Here is a pic of my mad dog how I call it. Remember that it is just a test box that disapointed me and I'll try to figure out what to do...
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That sub of yours is made for a sealed box. If you put it in a sealed box, and put it in the corner of the room, it will have good bass.

My home subwoofer is a 12" 4 ohm car subwoofer.

Audio X 350WRMS/700 peak with an FS of 25hz
This woofer is designed for a 1 cubic ft box.

My amp is an old stereo Sharp chipamp (STK4231-2) that puts out over 100w/channel x 2 in 8 ohms, and I paralleled the channels to make it drive a single 4 ohm load with 200W. It's connected to the subwoofer out jack on my Receiver.

Since my amplifier is smaller in RMS than that sub, I wasn't worried about max excursion, so I put it in a 1.25 cu ft box instead of just 1 cu ft to give it some extra bottom end. When I play 20 hz test tracks, I can feel it.

I put the sub in the corner of my room with the woofer facing the wall, and the phase is reversed so it doesn't cancel out the bass from my main speakers, but instead accents the bass and also adds the needed bottom end that my 4 8" front speakers lack below 40 hz.

Car subs make great home subwoofers, you just have to give them the box they need. (They are designed to play in small boxes)
 
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