Line 6 Spider Valve 112 Schematic

Removed R54 and R53 (both were shorted). Pad under R54 is pretty fried, but hopefully I can make the connection to R53 with a solder bridge or a tiny piece of resistor leg.
 

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Replaced R53 and R54 (and U3 while I was at it). Unfortunately, powering back on recooked R54. The 5V rail was ok when I checked it before, what else could be causing too much current to flow through R54? Maybe a bad U13? Should I remove R54 and recheck the 5V rail? See second picture below for relevant area of schematic; see post #2 for full schematic.
 

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Removed and checked C20. Capacitance reading was ok, but resistance values were a bit wonky so I replaced it. Replaced the cooked R54 as well.

Is there a smarter way to power up this board to see if I have an issue, or is it more a flip-and-pray process?
 
Replacing C20 did the trick! The amp works fine now. It even survived me running it for a few minutes with the speaker cable not fully plugged in (whoops!).

I also added some heatsinks on the voltage regulators and DSP chip to help ease the overheating issues common to these amps.

Thanks all for your help, and happy new year!
 

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