Its been long enough that I forget which way do the blade bolts turn on older ryobi table saws? The ones that tighten as the blade works make sense but I have had a couple that did not. Im not sure on this one because its not cracking either way and Id hate to be tightening it 😕
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Thanks. If the oil doesn't help break it by morning Ill give it a little heat treat, I want to play with my saw this weekend. The 3 in 1 is usually pretty effective stuff weal see.
PB Blaster rules; WD has had it's day. As for your arbor nut: it comes off in the direction of blade rotation. Just checked my old Makita 14" chop saw to confirm what has never seemed quite right but there it is.
Righty loosen, it has those Australian threads. Clockwise cracked it, with the help of a leverage bar and a now dedicated .75 wrench. The dust collector cowl made getting a ratchet in there awkward. All I need now is my beer.
My Ryobi has left-hand threads. I found this out after breaking the cheap 23mm wrench supplied with the saw. The manual states:"CAUTION-Right-hand threads!". Then I thought; why would they make that a point? AH! I then realized the manual was written in "Pacific Rim Instruction Manual English! 🙄
Well mastercrap still holds true to its name, this tool doesn't look like its even been used before. The jig making went swell, and the 2 way worked splendidly. I got to cutting until the chuck loosened itself off and dropped my expensive bit down onto the driveway, not that big of a deal I thought, perhaps it was driver error and I didn't snug it down enough. So I popped it back in place and tightened it down making sure it was nice and snug this time. On to cutting, a minute or so in clink, out it came again. At first look I thought I chipped the bit and I was ready to throw the router out into the street at that point lol. When that wasnt happening it was vibrating itself to pieces, literally. I ended up taking the depth gauge right off, it wouldn't stay tight either, depth wouldnt stay put either. And I'm not sure where that spring fell out from.
I did manage to get some cutting done. But the heavier 1.25 material was too much so I tried my luck with some lighter .75 ply. I was almost through a complete circle and the piece of crap router gave up on me and quit. I went in and had a beer and gave it some time to cool down. It did fire back up for a few moments before it quit again, that was all she wrote. So I owe for a new router and didn't get my work done. Moral of the story, never buy a mastercrap tool. If I ever do, you have full permission to shoot me.
I did manage to get some cutting done. But the heavier 1.25 material was too much so I tried my luck with some lighter .75 ply. I was almost through a complete circle and the piece of crap router gave up on me and quit. I went in and had a beer and gave it some time to cool down. It did fire back up for a few moments before it quit again, that was all she wrote. So I owe for a new router and didn't get my work done. Moral of the story, never buy a mastercrap tool. If I ever do, you have full permission to shoot me.
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HAHA Im trying to remember which side of the bed I got out of..that was meant for my other thread, sorry
Collets have a tough job. One trick is to hold the bit up a RCH before final tightening. That way the nut applying torque, which the collet transforms (?) 90 degrees to clamp the bit, is not working against the bottom of the cavity in the shaft housing said collet and bit. There must be no rust anywhere except maybe on the shank of the bit.
Life's too short for cheap tools. I just picked up a refurbished Porter Cable 7539. Now, THAT's a router!
For penetrating oil (Cal, get your mind out of the gutter!) Kroil is the sh...tuff.
~Tom
For penetrating oil (Cal, get your mind out of the gutter!) Kroil is the sh...tuff.
~Tom
Have you guys tried 3 in one? Ive tried a wide array of oils and thats worked best, for most things requiring oil for lubricant or pen. It gets in every nook and cranny but its not too thin, it reminds me of a good gun oil. In fact Ill use it on guns. My rider mowers ignition was binding up and sometimes wouldn't turn over at all, literally a couple small drops at the key entry and its smooth as silk now. When I removed my saw blade it worked its way well down into the threaded part of the arbor nut in about 12 hours. The stuff gets in there.
I was in Canadian tire yesterday and had a look at routers for curiosity sake. The bigger mastercrafts look much better than the toy I tried but Ill still stay away from mastercraft electrical tools. I returned one of there table saws last year, the cast table surface it self T and fence were a joke, not very accurate at all.
I don't think porter and cable is sold at a retail outlets here, at least I've not seen the brand anywhere.
I was in Canadian tire yesterday and had a look at routers for curiosity sake. The bigger mastercrafts look much better than the toy I tried but Ill still stay away from mastercraft electrical tools. I returned one of there table saws last year, the cast table surface it self T and fence were a joke, not very accurate at all.
I don't think porter and cable is sold at a retail outlets here, at least I've not seen the brand anywhere.
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Excellent suggestion, I understood what you meant.
But I didn't get "RCH".
OOOOH..just googled it....nevermind.😱
jn
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