I strongly suggest you go to McMaster Carr and order a pair of gloves 7733T11 . They are thin (I can open my pocket knife wearing them) and they will keep blood off your work!
Believe I know before and after!
Believe I know before and after!
I strongly suggest you go to McMaster Carr and order a pair of gloves 7733T11 . They are thin (I can open my pocket knife wearing them) and they will keep blood off your work!
Believe I know before and after!
I caught my thumb on the belt once, calis saved any blood from spilling. Ive had my hands stitched enough times from working with them I probably should be wearing some.
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I've got a woodworking question since you guys are discussing woodworking.
AND
It is for a shelf to place my audio gear upon.
What is the best way to cut out notches in wood?
The cutout is the shelf part, which is intended to make
the back of the shelf flush with the wall. That way I don't
need a back splash.
No it is not the top shelf, but one of the intermediate shelves.
Here is a quick drawing.
[/IMG]
I have hand tools, drills, a circular saw, a scroll saw, hand saws, drill press.
I could drill the inside corners then scroll saw the inside. Yes the finished
dimentions would be 1-1/2" by 3-1/2". The scroll saw will eat a lot of blades. 🙁
It is what it is.
Can anyone suggest a better idea? Big Box stores only cut to length.
AND
It is for a shelf to place my audio gear upon.
What is the best way to cut out notches in wood?
The cutout is the shelf part, which is intended to make
the back of the shelf flush with the wall. That way I don't
need a back splash.
No it is not the top shelf, but one of the intermediate shelves.
Here is a quick drawing.

I have hand tools, drills, a circular saw, a scroll saw, hand saws, drill press.
I could drill the inside corners then scroll saw the inside. Yes the finished
dimentions would be 1-1/2" by 3-1/2". The scroll saw will eat a lot of blades. 🙁
It is what it is.
Can anyone suggest a better idea? Big Box stores only cut to length.
The best way would be using a dado blade on a table saw. If you dont have that type of saw to accept a dado a single blade will do just as nice a job, it will just take more passes. A hand held circular saw with nice squared up fence will also work. You could also do it with a router and a flute bit.
Attachments
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Thanks SS.
No table saw. Trying to figure out how to make a fence for the hand
circular saw. I guess I put all the boards together and cut it all at
once. It sure would be nice having a table saw...
No table saw. Trying to figure out how to make a fence for the hand
circular saw. I guess I put all the boards together and cut it all at
once. It sure would be nice having a table saw...
Cutting them together is a good idea. Angle iron and C clamps work good in a pinch. Or a good 2x4. Ill scribe a line off a square where I want to clamp it down, that way Im sure its on.
Yeah I guess that's what I'll do Cal.
Drill the two corners and cut the rest.
I"ll go buy some extra blades cause I think
the'll get pretty hot and not last so long.
Drill the two corners and cut the rest.
I"ll go buy some extra blades cause I think
the'll get pretty hot and not last so long.
Sure a jigsaw with agressive teeth will work alright. Though it wouldnt be my first weapon of choice when cutting thicker materials, blade fexing puts accuracy off. the circular will chop out nice square corners for you set the depth and give-er.
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If overcuts from a circular saw aren't a problem then by all means. It's truer and faster.
Ya baby!
He uses Robertson drive screws
Ya baby!

scroll saw or jig saw should work very well. if the blade is flexing or you're going through a bunch of blades it is likely because you're forcing the saw to cut by pushing too hard instead of letting the saw do the cutting and just slowly feeding the blade into the wood.
With a new ripping agressive tooth..blade flex is very hard to avoid at times even while not forcing the saw. cut to slow as the blade moves so fast it will start to wander of your line. Find the medium and blade flex still happens.
I know how to cut, New blade, I cut both these right on my marks, maybe a mm off at my start points, had blade flex ,new blade, plenty of patience. Near perfect cuts aside from blade flex. A suitible blade will minimize it only. For rough in cuts no big deal. On finishing work or if your fussy about your wrk you will lose patience with a js.
I know how to cut, New blade, I cut both these right on my marks, maybe a mm off at my start points, had blade flex ,new blade, plenty of patience. Near perfect cuts aside from blade flex. A suitible blade will minimize it only. For rough in cuts no big deal. On finishing work or if your fussy about your wrk you will lose patience with a js.
Attachments
Thanks Cal and SS.
Cal,
On the four cuts...I presume the frist two go straight in
for the debth. Then the next two at 45 angle to debth
then along cut line to corner?
Or
Maybe the 45 first, then the cuts straight to debth.
Kuro,
Yes I tend to push the blade...not good I guess.
SS,
Maybe to use the skill saw to do the debth cut after
the angle cut in if that is what Cal was referring to.
Yes I lose patience...sometime with jig saw.
Even more with with a cheap band saw I got.
I'd brand it a crapsboy. You can't craft anything
with it and no man would use the damn thing.
...Thanks y'all for the tips and suggestions.
Cal,
On the four cuts...I presume the frist two go straight in
for the debth. Then the next two at 45 angle to debth
then along cut line to corner?
Or
Maybe the 45 first, then the cuts straight to debth.
Kuro,
Yes I tend to push the blade...not good I guess.
SS,
Maybe to use the skill saw to do the debth cut after
the angle cut in if that is what Cal was referring to.
Yes I lose patience...sometime with jig saw.
Even more with with a cheap band saw I got.
I'd brand it a crapsboy. You can't craft anything
with it and no man would use the damn thing.
...Thanks y'all for the tips and suggestions.
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