Think I will check my ability to drill "100%" vertical free hand. My "workshop" is in the kitchen. Instead of a dinner table I have a Bosch "DIY table/bench" so space is a bit limited! but the small drill bench could fit in. It looks ok. I will check other. Maybe there is one for sale at "walking distance". I also wonder if a tool exist to keep drill bit 90 degree vertical to the item when drilling free hand. Will check.......
Search "drill guide". These can be used with a hand-held drill to drill holes 90 degrees to the surface.
I use a Big Gator drill guide. It works great for me. I don't have room to store a drill press, even a small one.
Big Gator
Big Gator
Thank you!
I will look for a drill guide!
This one just for your amusement!
It is Danish!
I will look for a drill guide!
This one just for your amusement!
It is Danish!
All I would need was if a "magic eye" / "libelle" was built into my drill. The pictured is for a camera hot shoe.
Would be very practical.
Would be very practical.
Yes, if I just clear the ribs, I am happy!
I can see the hex screws provided that is for securing the heatsinks to the frame are 4mm hex. The distance between ribs is large enough so head of hex screw does not need to be filed.
I can see the hex screws provided that is for securing the heatsinks to the frame are 4mm hex. The distance between ribs is large enough so head of hex screw does not need to be filed.
improvise what you need
you can drill and tap M4 in heatsinks, so bolt heads being at headspreader side
various scenarios are possible
you can drill and tap M4 in heatsinks, so bolt heads being at headspreader side
various scenarios are possible
Yes, then the drilled hole will be less than 4mm of course.
Good idea. And if both spreader and heatsink is flat then a M4 thread in the aluminium heatsink should be strong enough to take the force of the screw.
The heatsinks are 8mm thick. In this case a M4 x 20 should be fine.
Good idea. And if both spreader and heatsink is flat then a M4 thread in the aluminium heatsink should be strong enough to take the force of the screw.
The heatsinks are 8mm thick. In this case a M4 x 20 should be fine.
if you have 6pcs of M4 per one 200mm deep sink, you're good
3 in upper row, 3 in lower row
any amount of warping will come good
as I said - detail I can't see from your pictures, only surface of heatspreader profiles is unknown to me
so, if heatspreader surface is flat/fine enough, you can skip lapping
and then, only screws and thermal paste will do the job
do not forget parts mounting solution (presumably somewhere in mid area of heatspreader; you can drill/tap heatspreader ...... you can drill and countersunk/bore back side for flat head screw ...... whatever
3 in upper row, 3 in lower row
any amount of warping will come good
as I said - detail I can't see from your pictures, only surface of heatspreader profiles is unknown to me
so, if heatspreader surface is flat/fine enough, you can skip lapping
and then, only screws and thermal paste will do the job
do not forget parts mounting solution (presumably somewhere in mid area of heatspreader; you can drill/tap heatspreader ...... you can drill and countersunk/bore back side for flat head screw ...... whatever
Yes, thermal paste will be last step when parts are mounted (or at least holes for them are done).
I will lap spreaders to get a more even surface.
To countersink with a flat surface, I need a router bit. I have a router, but I think it spins too fast for metal.
Don't think I can hand hold a router bit. If router bit with a center pin exists (like the drill bits you showed) then maybe......
Then the counter sink hole first and then the hole for the screw.
I will lap spreaders to get a more even surface.
To countersink with a flat surface, I need a router bit. I have a router, but I think it spins too fast for metal.
Don't think I can hand hold a router bit. If router bit with a center pin exists (like the drill bits you showed) then maybe......
Then the counter sink hole first and then the hole for the screw.
I have PBD40 as well. Very good machine and there is simple procedure to calibrate the laser, you can check on Youtube. Mine was out only 1 millimeter out on one axis.
Use piece of soft wood block (any structural wood will do) with piece of white paper stuck on it and put the smallest diameter drill on. Lower the chuck so the drill slightly punches the paper and see if the laser pointer is spot on. If not, you can calibrate.
